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Looking sweet, can’t wait. Are you hoping to press them through and hold by pressure? Or are you going to set a grub screw on it.

Also are those stock CVDs or are you working on upgraded pieces?
 
afreek1000 said:
Looking sweet, can’t wait. Are you hoping to press them through and hold by pressure? Or are you going to set a grub screw on it.

Also are those stock CVDs or are you working on upgraded pieces?
Click to expand...
This is a old cvd that is beyond wore out for experiments. I want to press fit them. No grub screw. Once I know it works I will go to my other stock cvds with my replacement pins for testing. Rear diff is built ready to drop in.
 
Beef cake.

339D1122-FE47-47F8-8A1A-5823E009DC8C.jpeg
 
amazon 4.0mm pins cut to length drill 5/32 hole. use vise to press into cvd. then use socket to capture ball end to press pin through the rest of the way.
 
Got it, so 5/32 is equal to 3.968 mm so thought fit.

I couldn’t find the 4.0mm pins on Amazon. 4.2 was the closest.
 
afreek1000 said:
Nice! I’ll co-sign. I’ve been trying to get M2C to acknowledge this for some time now to no avail.

As much as I love their products, I believe they’re overkill drive shafts have come up short to being perfect. Although they are quite beefy and do not snap anymore the pins are the Achilles’ heel of the whole piece.

Keeping the drive pin at 3.5 mm was a mistake, they snapped constantly.

For now my solution is to replace the pin set with a grub screw of my own making.

I would really love to see them redesign the Overkill driveshaft with a 4 mm pin and upgraded outdrive cups to match. I think many people are willing to pay a premium for such a product.

As for scorched RC alternative, They look nice but are pricey and titanium isn’t as strong as good old steel, also they’re always out of stock quite frustrating.

View attachment 203545

View attachment 203546

View attachment 203547

View attachment 203548
Click to expand...
Titanium isn't as strong as steel? I do think you need to look at it in terms of tensile strength/torsional rigidity to weight ratio. I realize the Scorched shaft is a little thicker, but I'd bet dollars to pesos that it doesn't weigh more than stock, probably a couple of grams lighter and the difference is not negligible as they demonstrate here:


Just a thought :)
 
Same here never hat that problem or those problems. But other things broke. and glue from the original tires did not last long. But then again I change the stock shocks to 5mm ones maybe its because of that.
 
well two bashes in with the new 4mm set up and things are looking swell. another thing i did also was to lower the truck front and rear with 1/8 inch of fuel tubing inside the shocks on the shaft under neath the pistons since i am running rpm arms. i would say the truck is becoming very reliable now.
1/8 id tubing 1/4 inch long
 
LTErene10$ said:
well two bashes in with the new 4mm set up and things are looking swell. another thing i did also was to lower the truck front and rear with 1/8 inch of fuel tubing inside the shocks on the shaft under neath the pistons since i am running rpm arms. i would say the truck is becoming very reliable now.
1/8 id tubing 1/4 inch long
Click to expand...
How much would you charge to do some drive shafts like yours? including the driveshafts =)
 
Five bash sessions and one of my pins has fallen out. Didn’t snap but just went into outer space. Gotta go with a smaller bit or a grub screw set up
afreek1000 said:
Got it, so 5/32 is equal to 3.968 mm so thought fit.

I couldn’t find the 4.0mm pins on Amazon. 4.2 was the closest.
Click to expand...
What size grub screw you using in your shafts? I gotta get a smaller bit for a tighter fit.
 
Okay 5/32 drill bit is a touch to big on this 4mm mod. Now using a #23 drill bit instead I’m getting more force to press the pin into the shaft. So no grub screw needed. This has been one of the best mods done to these high torque 8s beasts. Now front cvds are breaking so maybe switch them to 4mm also. If anyone is interested in this mod send a pm.
 
LTErene10$ said:
Okay 5/32 drill bit is a touch to big on this 4mm mod. Now using a #23 drill bit instead I’m getting more force to press the pin into the shaft. So no grub screw needed. This has been one of the best mods done to these high torque 8s beasts. Now front cvds are breaking so maybe switch them to 4mm also. If anyone is interested in this mod send a pm.
Click to expand...
Hows the 4mm pins holding up? I'm also looking to this as well.
 
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