Getting used to the Granite....

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Spook

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
So, got my Granite a month or so ago, I was trying not to break it and get used to it. With the Lock Down haven't really taken it anywhere but still managed to break it (snapped the screw holding the suspension onto the wing) and as everyone knows, you just can't get parts anywhere at the moment.

In the Meantime, I have a Radiolink Rc4GS Radio to swap out after all the bad things I hear about the Spektrum but haven't tried to do it yet.

There is so much information around but I often struggle to find the really basic information I would like to understand, hopefully I'll get there!

I see posts about different gears / mesh / slippers etc. and it seems like a mine field to know how these things should bet set, and in some cases what they are / look like and do!

Hopefully I'll get there.....
 
If you told me I’d need to get into the diffs, etc I prob would not of picked up this hobby.

That said take it one thing at a time and ask specific Qs with pictures and you will learn day by day.
 
Yep. The way you feel is normal, just chew it one bit at a time. I seems overwhelming at first, but it’s really not that complicated when you’ve worked on it a few times. A simple repair that is now stressing you out and making you waste a lot of time to learn what to do will become an easy task after a couple of times. You’re in luck, the Granite is probably the easiest to work on. If you don’t really have mechanical abilities/experience at the moment, this hobby is perfect to develop them.

You could start by purchasing a bearing kit for your Granite and replace them gradually. Do the hub bearing first, one wheel at a a time. That’s really easy to do and is a nice upgrade. Then you could replace the 4 bushings in the steering rack in another wrenching session. Then the input gear bearings. Then the slipper clutch bearings. Then the tiny bearing in the diffs (save this one for the last). By the time you’ve done this, you’ll have covered the whole truck and you’ll know it inside out. At that point, your servo will probably have crapped out also and you’ll have replaced it as well. :)

Again, it seems like a lot at first, but each individual task is fairly easy to do if you use common sense and think about what you’re doing.

Pay attention to how the the car handle and sound. You will see/hear when something is off, then use the forum and Youtube to fix it. For example, if your slipper becomes loose, you will hear a high pitch sound before the car starts to move...and the car will take a while to get moving. When this happens, don’t you shrug it off, convincing yourself that it’s “probably normal”. If something seems off, it probably is and you should take care of it.

If everything seems fine, just send it!
 
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So, got my Granite a month or so ago, I was trying not to break it and get used to it. With the Lock Down haven't really taken it anywhere but still managed to break it (snapped the screw holding the suspension onto the wing) and as everyone knows, you just can't get parts anywhere at the moment.

In the Meantime, I have a Radiolink Rc4GS Radio to swap out after all the bad things I hear about the Spektrum but haven't tried to do it yet.

There is so much information around but I often struggle to find the really basic information I would like to understand, hopefully I'll get there!

I see posts about different gears / mesh / slippers etc. and it seems like a mine field to know how these things should bet set, and in some cases what they are / look like and do!

Hopefully I'll get there.....
What wing?
 
(snapped the screw holding the suspension onto the wing) and as everyone knows, you just can't get parts anywhere at the moment.
Screws are easy to replace. You don't need an "Arrma" screw. In fact, you shouldn't use Arrma screws, they are sold at an incredible markup. Look at the exploded view provided with your Granite, find the screw part number, put the part number in the search on the Arrma RC website. Once you have the right part, look at the dimensions of the screw. Then buy that size screw. Amazon or Ebay will definitely have it. You'll probably be able to buy 50 screws for the price Arrma charges for 4. Or you can just buy a screw set. There are companies that sell screw sets specifically for the Granite and other vehicles.

If you can provide a photo of the screw and where it came from, people on the forum may be able to help.
EDIT: Looks like you already did that. I think I found your post. Is this what you're looking for? M3x16 button head screw
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR721316

https://www.amazon.com/XunLiu-Grade...ords=m3x16+button+screw&qid=1592833773&sr=8-4
P.S. The screws from China can take awhile to get delivered. An Ebay seller closer to you will probably be faster. Or just buy a screw set. FYI, the Granite screw set I got from RCScrewz was incomplete, but I'm pretty sure it included the M3x16 screws
 
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I have basically taken my K4s apart and put it back together a few times since I got it new from the shop 3 months ago, it's the best way to learn where things go and how your car works. Sit down one day, start unscrewing things, even if it's just to check things over, clean the bearings etc.

If you're looking for screws, screwfix and ebay is pretty good, I recently bought a pack of Arrma M3 screws which was £4 for 10 (because I want to keep it black) then I got some silver ones from Screwfix £2 for 20 as spares.
 
I've purchased a screw set for my typhon from jennysrc and it's been really nice to have. Another option would be going to a hardware store like ace, since they have bins of loose hardware. Could take the same screw out of the other side and bring it with you to match it to a replacement.
 
@Spook your post look like mine when I started in Fed. What has been shared is good advice. I too felt overloaded but it was me and since I have taken the Granite apart and replaced all the items recommended here.

I watched a YT video on diff changes for example. I made a YT playlist for it. Same for painting, bearings, shocks, hubs, etc. so I can go back and watch those when I got ready for that task. I read so much like you I needed to catalog the data I was finding until I got to that point. Same here I used the bookmark feature (Arrma) and made labels as I read new info so it could all be in the same category for me to reference when ready for the task.

Like the full bearing change on the Granite, I watched RazorRC video...took me 3+ hrs. to do all bearing outside of the one inside the slipper clutch housing. I took lots of pictures before each part I changed, etc. I felt really good afterward...

In the process, like you I made a list of tools, parts (screws, etc) that I needed.... It's now a real relaxing hobby but in the beginning I was a nervous wreak.
 
For general screw spares for my 3/4s vehicles I really like these assorted sets from amazon. They come in a plastic storage container and have most screws you'll need for the 3/4s vehicles and are cheap for the whole sets.

M3 6/8/10/12/16mm button head cap hex screw set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716Y5WZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3br8EbPVCZH3M

M3 20/25/30/35/40mm button head cap hex screw set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWL5HK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xcr8Eb1B6JYZ7

M3 6/8/10/12/16mm flat/sunken head hex screw set (used on the bottom of the vehicle):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073J4CRZV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ofr8EbGD4MREC

These sets have saved me tons of times. There are a couple M4 screws that are used for the diffs and the transmission retaining block but those usually don't break so I don't stock M4 assortments just the M4 specific sizes I would need if they do.
 
For general screw spares for my 3/4s vehicles I really like these assorted sets from amazon. They come in a plastic storage container and have most screws you'll need for the 3/4s vehicles and are cheap for the whole sets.

M3 6/8/10/12/16mm button head cap hex screw set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716Y5WZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3br8EbPVCZH3M

M3 20/25/30/35/40mm button head cap hex screw set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWL5HK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xcr8Eb1B6JYZ7

M3 6/8/10/12/16mm flat/sunken head hex screw set (used on the bottom of the vehicle):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073J4CRZV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ofr8EbGD4MREC

These sets have saved me tons of times. There are a couple M4 screws that are used for the diffs and the transmission retaining block but those usually don't break so I don't stock M4 assortments just the M4 specific sizes I would need if they do.

nice find. just ordered all 3
 
I know, I know use quality drivers and you won't have any problems. But I will slowly be replacing any M3 button head screw that needs to be replaced with cap head screws (if location permits) not only do they have a deeper head for a better bite but use a larger 2.5mm hex driver instead of 2mm.
 
Just got my MIP drivers today. Soooo much better than the cheap Amazon screwdriver kit I was using. I'll still use that for the security torx, triwing etc but the MIP are a much better fit.
 
Learning is part of the RC game, just like anything else. It's only big boy toys and shouldn't be intimidating. Remember, Rome wasn't built in a day.
 
Thank you for all the excellent feedback and comments, it is very, very much appreciated. Being in the UK there seems to be less options for parts / tools etc. but looking at the links supplied for Amazon.com most (if not all) are available for Amazon.co.uk when using the same description which is a great help for the future.

I have altready ordered the parts I think I need plus a few spares from a UK stockist but am waiting for delivery before I take the step of trying to do the repair (gulp) and hope not to break anything in the process..... I have also ordered a JST Lipo for my Radiolink RC4GS radio (which I already have) but haven't changed the RX yet. That task looks ok, but I am still a little concerned about the process overall but I guess once I start it will be fine.

I was hoping to avoid taking the electrics out and just remove the lid from the ESC and swap it but it doesn't look like that is the way to do it.... so going to wait a bit before I try that one too!

Thanks for all the excellent feedback on the forum it is a great help and very much appreciated.
 
Then the input gear bearings.
Is there a trick for getting these two bearing off? The outside one came off, but the inside one is a pain. Took a flat head screwdriver to it and got some space, but cant wedge it off. Read about now using needle nose pliers between the gap to jimmy it down. Also read about possibly freezing the entire input gear for 20 mins to contract the part and help the bearing slip off. Going to try that now.

Edit: Got em off. Freezing helped a bit, but I still had to tap it down with needle nose pliers as a wedge
 

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Is there a trick for getting these two bearing off? The outside one came off, but the inside one is a pain. Took a flat head screwdriver to it and got some space, but cant wedge it off. Read about now using needle nose pliers between the gap to jimmy it down. Also read about possibly freezing the entire input gear for 20 mins to contract the part and help the bearing slip off. Going to try that now.

Edit: Got em off. Freezing helped a bit, but I still had to tap it down with needle nose pliers as a wedge

Good work you noted all I would have posted....you got it off!!!
 
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