Granite Going to 6s ‘Voltage’

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ARRMA King

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
So I took a gamble and purchased one of those generic GoolRC esc, this one being one of the newer design cases 6s/150a to give my granite voltage more rpms.

-Out of the box, no manual so now I believe this esc has locked typical default settings! Luckily found out how to set endpoints with the set button.

-It felt unusually lightweight compared to the 4s SC8 hobbywing unit coming out, within 10g of each other trying to neglect ‘wires’. Suspicion that something was already off with this generic.

-The stupid thing needed 6mm bullets!

-The final straw was that simply swapping out esc, my top speed fell down to 43 mph where as my old SC8 4s got to 57!

Performance is so conservatively mild!!! Have to make up speed with the extra voltage but there goes all that potential lost out of the gate!

Now to be fair it does run ‘ok’ and can punch wheelies from low and there’s minimal cogging so at least the hardware is ‘modern’.

No wonder $50!!! I should of spend a lil more, ughhh ?

Tl;dr bought a basement level generic esc!!! It’s true, pony up for a nice esc and you can go cheap on the motor. It really make a performance difference even at the same voltage level!


... now to initiate block point 3.0 chassis revision and push this pos esc to its 25v potential! Hoping it doesn’t start a fire!!?
 

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HOW INSANE IS 4S VOLTAGE!!!!THOSE ARE 1/10 2WD RIGHT????? My 4S senton is insane. Power to weight ratio off the charts on that??? Them only come as brushed trucks don't they??????? I'm addicted to huge Motors in little cars.6s voltage would take the cake....I want one
 
Lol yes... what started off as the $99 entry level NiMH brushed 2wd MT... turned up!!!

Will try to get finished up and post speed results this week. Hoping for at least 65-70’s on this 2600kv (Got a 3500 & 4300 3660‘s motors coming in any day now to get even more rpms).

Being rear wheel brakes is the killer as you need almost just as much distance to STOP!! That and this generic esc is locked at 50% brake power and it’s already worrisome eye opener ?

Yes, power to weight is always key esp weight distribution! Also have to roll on the throttle/walk the trigger... carefully ?
 
I can tell the difference, esp as the motor heats up and the strength starts to fade from hammering it to top speed (and keeping it straight) then the next sphincter pucker is motor brake fade!!!

With brakes set up to the full 100% at least I could progressively run up the brakes on the edge of max stiction all the way to a stop.

This esc at 50% coming down from 40 took a long time already and I only had ever so slight rear lockup at full throw! And my diff is already ~3M posi fluid to help brake balance.

I’m going to need more capacity if I’m going to go higher!!!
 
Haha I'm in the same boat.i got blx 185 in senton,,highest setting is 50%.It won't stop either.im the guy trying to put army tank motor in escort.lol.i got 2 blx100 systems sitting on work bench. .wonder if they are hard to find like all the rest of them arrmas is right now.100$for truck. Throu 3s in it. All my trucks r four-wheel drive and would be a whole different kind of fun for me.
How much work would be involved in me put in a BLX 100 in there.blx100 esc is small.3660 motor fits. besides getting speed control and motor in there is there a whole lot of more customized stuff that will be needing done. Open the box and start hacking away???
 
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After I fully refine this 6s setup (and it doesn’t crash), I do have a Hobbywing Max6 8s esc in one of my 8th scale rigs

... thinking that future 8s granite idea will be that spinal tap to...‘11’?

okay... am going to shave more width clearances to stack (2) 4s batteries on top of each other for the future ‘reserve’?
 
I'm going on the hunt for one.r u maxed out on gearing available?57mph seems little slow.don't get me wrong 1/10 car doing 57 is impressive to see.
.
I got a h-wing quickrun.100$ 150a esc.i love it.its small to.would be a good option for you.150a arrma-150a h-wing..lot of breaking options
 

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Yeah I’m already maxed out 25t on the fixed motor mount holes. To go faster now I need more voltage and more kv. This is just a fun back burner project to see how fast can the baby Arrma can go! At ~70’s it’ll be just as fast as a 6s limitless ?

I have an 8th scale car that I just hit 75 on 5s. Doing it progressively since at high speed aero becomes a major problem and blow overs can end your day really quick!! Want to make sure everything is stable before going up the next level.

Buddy’s 8s infraction went 103 so I got some catching up to do.
 
I love it I'm going to try to find one.start on 3s.. overpowering cars is my new thing.just got done with 6s senton an big rock. About to order some speed tires in a speedometer so I can see what they will run.5s&6s are insane in them.gonna try voltage out now.budget build.150a all the way!!!
 

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Future expansion for 8s... done!

Soon this pedestrian vanilla arrma will have to start posting in the ‘8s’ threads! ?
 

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So I took a gamble and purchased one of those generic GoolRC esc, this one being one of the newer design cases 6s/150a to give my granite voltage more rpms.

-Out of the box, no manual so now I believe this esc has locked typical default settings! Luckily found out how to set endpoints with the set button.

-It felt unusually lightweight compared to the 4s SC8 hobbywing unit coming out, within 10g of each other trying to neglect ‘wires’. Suspicion that something was already off with this generic.

-The stupid thing needed 6mm bullets!

-The final straw was that simply swapping out esc, my top speed fell down to 43 mph where as my old SC8 4s got to 57!

Performance is so conservatively mild!!! Have to make up speed with the extra voltage but there goes all that potential lost out of the gate!

Now to be fair it does run ‘ok’ and can punch wheelies from low and there’s minimal cogging so at least the hardware is ‘modern’.

No wonder $50!!! I should of spend a lil more, ughhh ?

Tl;dr bought a basement level generic esc!!! It’s true, pony up for a nice esc and you can go cheap on the motor. It really make a performance difference even at the same voltage level!


... now to initiate block point 3.0 chassis revision and push this pos esc to its 25v potential! Hoping it doesn’t start a fire!!?

You're doing all this with the stock transmission/gearing setup? If so good luck with those 48p gears as I can see them melting right away. And hopefully your chassis doesn't snap in half after your bold move to cut out half of the center spine to fit in 8s worth of heavy batteries.

I have a modified voltage built for speed but instead of cutting it apart to fit more batteries I created a mountable 3D printed top plate with ESC mount and a second battery tray. I also created my own Mod1 spur drive because the stock spur couldn't even hold up to 2s brushless so I am surprised you got more than 1 run with that setup.
 

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Very nice solution there! I see you also have the T Bone wheelie bar?

Yeah I tried to leave as much material and left the 90 deg corners intact for structural rigidity. This thing ain’t jumping and from me trying to bend the chassis by hand (I can’t) the majority of the stiffness load is at the bottom chassis. Batteries aren’t a risk atm.

If I need more stiffness contemplating an aluminum strong back layer underneath the chassis anyway since my next quest is to add some more slight weight up front & under to suppress unwanted wheelies, which I’m thinking also of sticking lead weights under the front. Gotta keep the weight and center of gravity low and slightly front, which is why I did the cut modification I did.

I also don’t hammer the throttle (unwanted wheelies wheelies w/o a wheelie bar; even still you can momentum past a short bar), not landing on power too so the transmission has been staying intact so far!

In short knowing the limitations of the weakest link, I don’t thrash these RC’s to ultimate failure unlike what YouTube suggests
 
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You're doing all this with the stock transmission/gearing setup? If so good luck with those 48p gears as I can see them melting right away. And hopefully your chassis doesn't snap in half after your bold move to cut out half of the center spine to fit in 8s worth of heavy batteries.

I have a modified voltage built for speed but instead of cutting it apart to fit more batteries I created a mountable 3D printed top plate with ESC mount and a second battery tray. I also created my own Mod1 spur drive because the stock spur couldn't even hold up to 2s brushless so I am surprised you got more than 1 run with that setup.
Nice ride, you guys inspired me to do one.already have blx100 system.voltages on sale on ebay getting one Friday. How muchofthatisisstock,. Never seen a voltage up close but I noticed a lot of it looks 3s parts.fast ,cheap, build.got system an granite parts truck.try an do it for under 300$ tires an voltage being most of that.. think it can be done?
 
Nearly any project can be accomplished... given you throw enough resources at it! ?

Luckily for my build, a lot of stuff has been hand-me-downs or multi-purpose eg batteries from my rc fleet! So that’s where I was able to avoid extra costs.

She’s almost done...
 

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Nice ride, you guys inspired me to do one.already have blx100 system.voltages on sale on ebay getting one Friday. How muchofthatisisstock,. Never seen a voltage up close but I noticed a lot of it looks 3s parts.fast ,cheap, build.got system an granite parts truck.try an do it for under 300$ tires an voltage being most of that.. think it can be done?
Mine in its current form the only things stock are the chassis, idler gear, arms, links, and axles -- rest of it has been changed or modified somehow. You can peep my build thread if you want more background on how it came to be what it is. It's a glass cannon build done only because I had no real use for the truck anymore and had some parts/time to spare.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/project-street-voltage-build.21966/
 
Good to see other’s ideas turned reality. Thanks for sharing!

Went out to test on 5s and getting a feel for the power from down low, to know if mid throttle burst wheelies this thing or not and I heard a ‘pop’ and the dreaded 1wd, crap! ?

No local spare yokes so I drilled and made my own set screws (trimmed screw length to fit and the cut off head) to retain keyway shape/jamming and lets see if this will hold in the meantime ?
 

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I have the metal diff cups on mine but how in the world are you not stripping the diff or idler gear or spur , i modded mine for 3s and I got tired of it breaking every 5 mins I know it's their budget line but these really need a slipper clutch
 
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Well the diff output fix held only up until 9/10ths power of 6s and then it let go.

Did manage to hit 60 mph so that’s a new best.

Upon inspection it looks like at one end of the set screws a crack developed. Screwed that down back to the axle flats and put super glue over the crack and screw as a final last ditch fix before buying replacements.

let’s see if this will hold and try for 70’s!
I have the metal diff cups on mine but how in the world are you not stripping the diff or idler gear or spur , i modded mine for 3s and I got tired of it breaking every 5 mins I know it's their budget line but these really need a slipper clutch

Well the recent diff output cup was my first ever drive line breakage from the box. I don’t plan on buying metal replacements yet as I want that cheap and ‘easily accessible’ part to continue to play the ‘plastic circuit breaker fuse’, if you will.

Like they say, strengthen one area and the next weakest link in the chain manifests itself.

As far as not stripping the gears, I dunno so far it’s been holding up with my conservative driving style. Wore out tires may also be allowing some slip relief on the streets.
 
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