Gonna start building a beast Rich would be proud of!

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Actually....... the droop screws are killing my M2C chassis. To be fair, the damage started while still using the stock ones, but I switched to the Arrma double socket head ones that @Mr.Duke posted, and although better than the sharp stock ones, still eating away at the metal of those tabs on the chassis. Then again, it's the Notorious J truck, so if something bad can happen, it probably will??

This is how a truck should be built. Ground up using the best parts available. Pay me now, or pay me later, one way or the other, you'll ending having most of these parts on your truck if you're planning on serious bashing. Can't wait to see it when it's done, and I hope you have something special in store for a custom painted body.

This is how a truck should be built. Ground up using the best parts available. Pay me now, or pay me later, one way or the other, you'll ending having most of these parts on your truck if you're planning on serious bashing. Can't wait to see it when it's done, and I hope you have something special in store for a custom painted body.

People run the stock screws on the stock chassis and don't bore through. Come on now ?
 
Got the M2C Motor Mount um.....well, mounted!? That's a tongue twister.
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Is the only advantage of those shock caps that they have bleeder screws?
Not just bleeder screws, but delrin pistons with special slots on the bottom that push o-rings out on the rebound. And they are quite nice, and made from stronger 7075t6 aluminum
 
Not just bleeder screws, but delrin pistons with special slots on the bottom that push o-rings out on the rebound. And they are quite nice, and made from stronger 7075t6 aluminum
Are they also the ones you use without a bladder to have emulsion type shocks? I think that's what @Rich Duperbash was using most recently.
 
Are they also the ones you use without a bladder to have emulsion type shocks? I think that's what @Rich Duperbash was using most recently.

Yeah those are them. I'm not seeing where it says they're 7075. I was going to add a set with the order I put in, but couldn't verify what they were made of, so I put it off for now. I'm good with beating the crap out of the stock ones a little longer.
 
Well here she is minus the GKA braces, brace stop & Ackerman plate ??
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The hardest parts were the front a-arms (pta), and drilling those JBI towers took 3 drill bits, the one @Mitchell looper included with the kit snapped off, and had to vise grip it out of the tower. These JBI towers are the strongest aluminum I've ever seen, and I used to be an aircraft fabricator for Lockheed's F-22.?
Oh and a new YooWoo 6S 100C 6000mah pack too!?
 
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Quick question... How did you mount the Max6..?? bolts, tape, velcro..??
You gotta unscrew the motor lead holder, and cut or sand off the lip on the esc tray, then they include really, really strong 3M double sided tape pre-cut to the size of the esc, and switch. But I'm going to the hardware store today, and getting some Gorilla double sided tape that says it can hold 30lbs. because I did a lot of repositioning when installing it, and want a stronger bond. Don't know if I'll wind up doing what I did before, and run a zip tie around it. ?
 
I thought @bicketybam said it would screw down to the stock plate as well.
It does look like you could mount 4 M4x10(?) screws in these holes that are in the bottom of the case, but they're not threaded, and theirs not ears. I went and got that 30lb Gorilla tape and remounted it today, pushing it back a hair, and making sure it doesn't rub the center diff mount, and that the motor wires clear the center tower. I also had to take a dremel to the original switch mount on the mud guards. If not it'll bulge, and rub, I also moved the switch to the top of the radio tray. I had it tucked nicely in front of the servo, but reaching the program button was crappy, so reciever box it is.?‍♂️
 
It does look like you could mount 4 M4x10(?) screws in these holes that are in the bottom of the case, but they're not threaded, and theirs not ears. I went and got that 30lb Gorilla tape and remounted it today, pushing it back a hair, and making sure it doesn't rub the center diff mount, and that the motor wires clear the center tower. I also had to take a dremel to the original switch mount on the mud guards. If not it'll bulge, and rub, I also moved the switch to the top of the radio tray. I had it tucked nicely in front of the servo, but reaching the program button was crappy, so reciever box it is.?‍♂️
I've had my Max6's break free from the double sided 30lb Gorilla tape. I don't like zip ties because I feel it just trashes the fan even quicker.
 
How are you finding the M2C motor mount, is it super tough..??

Think I've just bent my original Arrma motor mount..??
It is really tough, and the tolerances are really tight. Is it worth $50 vs. a V4 mount??‍♂️
I've had my Max6's break free from the double sided 30lb Gorilla tape. I don't like zip ties because I feel it just trashes the fan even quicker.
So how do you hold it down, with screws? I have M3 & M4 taps, hands for making new screw holes. I did use them to tap out the wing mount screws to m4, much better! ?
 
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