Talion Good experiences with Talion EXB?

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Hi,

I’ve been umming and arring about a Talion EXB for a while. I have one due to ship out to me next week but I’m a bit hesitant to go ahead as every time I read a post about them it seems to be about them breaking or quality control issues.

I realise people tend to post when something breaks and not so much when things are fine but still the overall consensus seems to be more negative than positive.

I realise things break but I was hoping EXB + high cost = less breaking not more.

Are there people out there happy with these cars? If so I’d be really grateful if you could provide some reassurance.

Thanks.
 
Waiting on mine too, should be here in a few days. Im not worried about damage reports because that’s par for the course for every RC.

Fix it when it breaks.

cheers,
kev
 
I think much of the complaints are on the electrics. They have a 2year warranty (assume it’s the same up in CA). I would not cut the wires on the esc to change out connectors, splice in any fans or do anything else to void the warranty until you get several runs through it.
I don’t think you’ll have any regrets, if I didn’t have a pretty tricked out talion I be getting one.
 
having problems with mine run it first time other day keeps spinning out and very hard to control. most of screws didnt have loctite on mesh was too tight. think I need to check all diffs maybe change shock oil and tyres
 
Hi,

I’ve been umming and arring about a Talion EXB for a while. I have one due to ship out to me next week but I’m a bit hesitant to go ahead as every time I read a post about them it seems to be about them breaking or quality control issues.

I realise people tend to post when something breaks and not so much when things are fine but still the overall consensus seems to be more negative than positive.

I realise things break but I was hoping EXB + high cost = less breaking not more.

Are there people out there happy with these cars? If so I’d be really grateful if you could provide some reassurance.

Thanks.
After I ironed out all my issues, and trust me there is a huge list…the first few runs with the car there was always something going wrong. Now I’m in maybe 17-20 packs without a problem on 6s. I’m only using 4000mah packs but I have been jumping it non stop…maybe 20 foot high and no issues…there were a couple of bad landings mixed in. I would take it out of the box and pull every nut, bolt, and screw out of and make sure there is tread lock where there should be. Pull the diffs apart and check levels and check if the diffs need to be shimmed. My advice is Treat it as a unassembled kit. It was a bad beginning but I’m really enjoying my Talion exb now.
 
After I ironed out all my issues, and trust me there is a huge list…the first few runs with the car there was always something going wrong. Now I’m in maybe 17-20 packs without a problem on 6s. I’m only using 4000mah packs but I have been jumping it non stop…maybe 20 foot high and no issues…there were a couple of bad landings mixed in. I would take it out of the box and pull every nut, bolt, and screw out of and make sure there is tread lock where there should be. Pull the diffs apart and check levels and check if the diffs need to be shimmed. My advice is Treat it as a unassembled kit. It was a bad beginning but I’m really enjoying my Talion exb now.
I was thinking about getting one but after reading this I'd be better off just buying another. Tekno ET48. The fun part of a RTR is getting it and just being able to pull it out the box and go. If you have to pull the whole thing apart from the get-go then that sounds like a really terrible value. It seems like just when Arrma was hitting their peak they've gone the opposite direction and are falling off.
 
I was thinking about getting one but after reading this I'd be better off just buying another. Tekno ET48. The fun part of a RTR is getting it and just being able to pull it out the box and go. If you have to pull the whole thing apart from the get-go then that sounds like a really terrible value. It seems like just when Arrma was hitting their peak they've gone the opposite direction and are falling off.
I was going to buy another ET48 2.0 but it was sold out till September. I figured what the hell I’ll get the Talion exb. I’ll give it to my dad to beat on and it’s “rtr” turn key and go, comes with all the electronics. Lol, boy was I wrong! Upside is I know everything is built correctly now. I also went with the Arrma since they seem to have a great name and I haven’t had one in my collection yet. I really was disgusted in the beginning of the ownership of this thing. I’m begging to truly enjoy the Talion exb. After reading on the forum it seems, just like my xmaxx the esc is a ticking time bomb. Every time I run my xmaxx and the Talion in the back of my mind I’m just waiting for them to go.
 
After I ironed out all my issues, and trust me there is a huge list…the first few runs with the car there was always something going wrong. Now I’m in maybe 17-20 packs without a problem on 6s. I’m only using 4000mah packs but I have been jumping it non stop…maybe 20 foot high and no issues…there were a couple of bad landings mixed in. I would take it out of the box and pull every nut, bolt, and screw out of and make sure there is tread lock where there should be. Pull the diffs apart and check levels and check if the diffs need to be shimmed. My advice is Treat it as a unassembled kit. It was a bad beginning but I’m really enjoying my Talion exb now.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I’ve read your thread and it’s one of the posts that’s put me off a bit.

What I’m trying to figure out is if your experience is the norm for these cars or if you were just unlucky.

I’m new to this and don’t have the expertise to rebuild the whole car, not initially at least. I’m just about OK with locktiteing the wheels and checking a few things but that’s about all I can / want to do straight out of the box.

Has anyone actually received one of these and everything has been fine? I would expect that at least some people get “good ones”?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I’ve read your thread and it’s one of the posts that’s put me off a bit.

What I’m trying to figure out is if your experience is the norm for these cars or if you were just unlucky.

I’m new to this and don’t have the expertise to rebuild the whole car, not initially at least. I’m just about OK with locktiteing the wheels and checking a few things but that’s about all I can / want to do straight out of the box.

Has anyone actually received one of these and everything has been fine? I would expect that at least some people get “good ones”?

Thanks.
I think I was just very unlucky. If you get one I think you should pull the diffs out and check the fluid levels, make sure the pinion and spur mesh is right and thread lock any hardware that threads into or onto aluminum, then let it rip.
 
I put it down to bad luck cause the other seven arrmas I have had have been fine. this talion is most expensive arrma as well thats what pisses me off
 
Mine was pretty good right out of the box. Every screw I checked and expected to have thread locker on was in and tight.

I haven't checked diff fluids yet because I plan to change them.

I find it handles good. I turned off AVC and adjusted gear mesh and thread locked the wheel nuts.

Only running on 4S most of the time though. I imagine going 6S consistently is going to reveal new challenges.
 
just been out with mine trying to figure out why its spinning out its like driving on wet ground. noticed when the car turned over on its roof front wheels were to one side and wasnt touching the wheel wonder if the servo is knackered out the box anybody else having these problems
 
I think much of the complaints are on the electrics. They have a 2year warranty (assume it’s the same up in CA). I would not cut the wires on the esc to change out connectors, splice in any fans or do anything else to void the warranty until you get several runs through it.
I don’t think you’ll have any regrets, if I didn’t have a pretty tricked out talion I be getting one.
From experience that doesn't violate any warranty
 
I hate mine. I should have gotten a Typhon and M2C'd it.

I'm sure people are sick of hearing me. So I'll peace out. Lol.
 
just been out with mine trying to figure out why its spinning out its like driving on wet ground. noticed when the car turned over on its roof front wheels were to one side and wasnt touching the wheel wonder if the servo is knackered out the box anybody else having these problems
If you spin the one rear tires does the other one spin the opposite direction? Have you tried taking the avc off? That is strange, sounds like your rear diff is a locker or posi. But spinning the tires like I said would knock that theory out. If everything looks good build the rear lsd diff to “less effect”
 
Let's be real people..!!
It's an Arrma so the diffs will be extremely low on fluid from the factory, the stock Spektrum electronics are pretty much 💩 and in my opinion will need replacing straight away especially the servo ( also the servo horn if changing the servo to a better model 23t vs 25t ) and don't forget any other QC issues you may have...
Don't worry too much though, if you live stateside you'll be good on most of the above with the warranty 👍🏼

But at the end of the day and overall it's a good rig straight out the box..!! 😉
 
Okay. Mine had huge problems today. Crunching and no go. Start diving into this thing looking at the centre diff and checking motor blah blah.

Turns out one motor lead must have been disconnected.

Did everything and then powered up with motor connected then disconnected it and duplicated the failure.

One troubling thing for me is that AVC keeps magically turning itself on again. I turned that poop off and rebound the controller but it seems to be back again for no reason.

Anyways.

Got a good dozen yeets out of mine before I tore it apart looking for this phantom problem.

Pinched the offending lead out of my ESC a bit with a pair of channel locks so the motor lead seats a bit better rather than whatever hot dog and hallway scenario led to my frenzied trouble shooting and it seems right as rain now.
Just as an aside my Frankenstein was a super champ on the ramp and only busted a rear drive shaft. My now 4S typhon scared the neighbourhood with like 75-80 mph passes on my street.

I guess I empathize with other side a bit here: it took me a year to dial in these 3S rigs. I guess I thought the RTR Talion EXB ought to be dialled in right OOTB. I mean in retrospect that's silly and I only wanted the chassis and upgrades and pretty much planned on discarding the electronics when I could afford to upgrade.

I dunno

It's been super fun so far with the stock electronics.

I mean I am not babying this thing by any means.

For the extra 250 CAD over say a roller EXB I figure I got my money's worth so far.

I have not had the same drastic electronics failures reported elsewhere.
 
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One troubling thing for me is that AVC keeps magically turning itself on again. I turned that poop off and rebound the controller but it seems to be back again for no reason.
I seem to have the same thing happen to me on the DBXLE. Same RX. I disable it at the RX, runs fine for a bit……then when I lift it up on the tailgate I see the AVC is turning the wheels……IDK.

Back to the original thread…..buy the rig….fix when it breaks, upgrades where appropriate. I’m so stoked to get mine, I don’t care about known issues.

cheers,
kev
 
If you spin the one rear tires does the other one spin the opposite direction? Have you tried taking the avc off? That is strange, sounds like your rear diff is a locker or posi. But spinning the tires like I said would knock that theory out. If everything looks good build the rear lsd diff to “less effect”
all diffs are good sorted them out. have to turn car on and off then back on to work. turned avc off on receiver and car was even worse so don,t no if its the servo thats playing up or the receiver. think will try a futaba receiver in the car with my 4pls
 
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