Good places to use red loctite?

[sumguy75]

All threads on both parts get cleaned, I'm 99.9% sure at this point the problem is happening because I can't tighten it enough and its a barrel nut instead of a locknut. When I was still using 12mm hexes, at least I could use locknuts and that along with the loctite was plenty.

I saw some orange Permatex in Home Depot yesterday and grabbed it. I'll give it a try first, hopefully that's all I will need. I'll keep the red for the rare times I want something permanently locked. If it doesn't go bad in the container I probably have a lifetime supply.

 

[RedOctobyr]

Is it possible the post pictures of the parts? It's not a case of doubting you or anything like that. I'm just not familiar with the hardware you're describing, so being able to see it would be helpful, to better understand how everything goes together.

For instance, if there were more exposed threads, perhaps you could add a second nut after this item, as a jam nut, tightening the two against each other.

 

[sumguy75]

Here's the pics of my spare parts and one mounted on my rig. No threads leftover unfortunately. I have them set with the Permatex orange threadlocker right now hoping that solves it.

 

[Johnny b]

On the ex wife's lips.

 

[Adiabatic]

On my friends' cars when they're not looking, so they can have a nice surprise the next time they try to wrench.

 

[RedOctobyr]

Here's the pics of my spare parts and one mounted on my rig. No threads leftover unfortunately. I have them set with the Permatex orange threadlocker right now hoping that solves it.

Wow, thank you for the pictures. That helps a bunch, but I still had to look at it a bit to figure out what each piece is doing. It's kinda complicated.

I don't know what to call the first piece, the hex with the little slot to accommodate the cross-pin in the axle. But if I understood correctly, part of the issue is that you can't tighten the barrel-nut too much, because that first hex piece binds, by rubbing against the hub bearing? What about adding a little bit of clearance there (hub bearings to hex), so you can tighten the nut some more?

Two options come to mind, one is reversible

1) Could you put a bit of material either on the pin, or on the back side of the hex, to kind of act as a spacer between the pin and the hex, to keep the hex a bit further from the hub bearings? Like slipping small pieces of heatshrink onto the pins. Or laying strips of tape on the hex, across the slot for the pin, to sort of act as a shim against the pins?

2) What about removing a bit of material from the flat surface on the back of the hex, to add more clearance to the hub bearings? Like run the back of the hex around on some sandpaper, to make it a bit shorter. This wouldn't alter where the hex actually sits, since presumably it sits on the pins. But it would give you a little more room behind the hex, to avoid binding against the hub bearings. Letting you tighten it more, and not rely as much on the Loctite.

 

[sandblaster]

Why can you not tighten the wheel nut tight? Wonder if that is not the first problem to resolve. Tremendous pressure at the wheel nut. Had lots of problems, now I use a small DeWalt 1/4 impact and just hit them. No more loose wheels or torn up rims. Could not keep them tight with only hand tight.

 

[sumguy75]

I like the second solution, probably sanding off .5mm would be enough.

@sandblaster if I tighten it down very tight it causes the bearing to bind just a little, it's the front of a 2wd Stampede. When I free spin the tire with the barrel nut too tight, it will turn 5 or 6 times before it stops. I've tried running it like that and the bearings will disintegrate fast.

Normally it will just keep spinning for 2 or 3 minutes with new bearings and nothing binding.

I'm interested to see if the orange Permatex I put on it will hold , reviews on it are mostly positive. I'll be running several 4s packs through it this weekend.

 

[sandblaster]

I like the second solution, probably sanding off .5mm would be enough.

@sandblaster if I tighten it down very tight it causes the bearing to bind just a little, it's the front of a 2wd Stampede. When I free spin the tire with the barrel nut too tight, it will turn 5 or 6 times before it stops. I've tried running it like that and the bearings will disintegrate fast.

Normally it will just keep spinning for 2 or 3 minutes with new bearings and nothing binding.

I'm interested to see if the orange Permatex I put on it will hold , reviews on it are mostly positive. I'll be running several 4s packs through it this weekend.

Have you looked at a spacer? Something is off somewhere. Hard to tell by pictures what is really going on.

 

[Cereal_killer]

I haven't needed to use it yet. But I just bought some Permatex orange thread locker (I bought the gel version). It's high-strength, like red, but says it does not require heat to remove.

It seemed worth mentioning, anyways. If blue won't cut it, I plan to try this, rather than red. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25210-Strength-Removable-ThreadLocker/dp/B07R6B87S5

I’ve use the gel version as well, +1 no complaints whatsoever

 

[chevyjlewis]

Id avoid it unless you have a pesky one

 

[Surchaufeur]

I use it everywhere but depends on the amount. I don't trust cheese blue locktite. Came undone a few times and i decided that it was enough. Theres a locktire who holds like red but comes out like blue

 

[RedOctobyr]

Theres a locktire who holds like red but comes out like blue

That's Permatex Orange. They say high strength, but does not need heat to remove. I bought the gel version, but haven't needed to try it yet. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Permate...Removable-Orange-Threadlocker-25210/315089195

 

[sumguy75]

Found a better solution, fits Team Associated DR10, 75 cents per axle and eliminate the pin/12mm hex nut. Just needs a couple of .2mm shims for where the screw goes in the axle.

Posting this in case anyone else has this issue w. 2wd Traxxas, zero problems in 3 months now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195567436082

 

[Daywalker_27]

On the flip side, I've always used blue on pinion grub screws and have never had a single issue with pinions coming off. Seems like that is the place I'd be most likely to have an issue with threadlockers, but my pinions always stay put.

I’ve had numerous pinion gears come lose on me and I’ve only been at this since September (even had my RC parked for the winter). My pinion has come out with blue loctite and yes grub screw was cleaned with brake cleaner, I’m currently using orange and my pinion is still coming out. Online I’ve seen how bad the oem pinions are and was recommended Tekno pinion gears, when I lose the oem ones I’m running now I’m seriously considering red loctite on the new e-clipless pinons.

 

[Romper4444]

Anybody here use red loctite on certain parts that you hardly ever take off? I know it requires a good bit of heat to loosen, but I'm wondering if a very small amount could be effective while still not being too difficult to remove.

I have a 2wd rig that I have 17mm hex adapters that use a barrel nut to hold them in. If it gets tightened too much, it puts pressure on the hub bearing and wears it out fast. If I don't tighten down hard, blue loctite helps it stay longer but not enough to keep it from loosing a wheel at times. I was thinking of using a small amount of red loctite on the barrel nuts on the last few threads. Figure it might be just the right amount of strength for what I need, worst case scenario I can remove the hub and heat it up to remove since its aluminum.

Anybody else use red threadlocker on their rigs?

I'd like RLAARLO to take a course on how to use red loctite, not dip the entire car in a frickin bucket of loctite GRRRRRRR

 

[SrC]

I personally use red loctite on the grub screw that holds the pinion gear in place. I had two come pinions come lose on me, using blue loctite and I had no brakes to stop the car.

That's why Spektrums Safe D pinion and E clip is a great design.

Yeah Red in certain places can work. I have been lucky with Blue 243 instead of #242. It works with oily dirty used hardware better. Stays put. Still the same strength however.
With Motor pinion Set screws, I could see using Red. Only because motors get VERY hot and Blue TL will loosen more easily with heat. Most any TL will. It's why we use Heat to begin with, when removing ANY TL'ed hardware fastners. Advisable to always do this first or risk stripping hexes/ drivers. I use Blue TL on my Crawler Beadlock 12mm Wheels.( Barrel Nylock nuts)
Red can be very hard to remove sometimes. And Honestly, if you read the instructions, Red is for very large Automotive screws and bolts. Technically it is over kill for tiny RC fasteners, depending. There are exceptions I guess., when you have no other choice. Sometimes you just need New fasteners. The Red TL may just be a crutch, if the nuts or screws are simply worn out. I have rounded out/stripped some hardware using Red before. Then you have a mess on your hands.. If you use Blue TL on Very cleaned fasteners, Blue is all you need. And it Absolutley must Cure for 24 hours before running. All TL cures to become strong, Not cured and it will still come loose. Use more of of the Blue TL on both the nut and well cleaned threads, then just let it cure. 24 hrs.
My spin.

 

[sumguy75]

I've had a couple of places where blue just wasn't enough, even on new stuff with a full cure. The first was using Hot Racing 17mm hex adapters on the front axles of 2wd Traxxas rigs. Problem is you can't tighten the wheel nut down beyond snug or it would push the hex pin against the outer bearing enough to cause it to bind slightly. I've since solved that by using Team Associated front axles that don't use the separate pin/hex nut, the hex is part of the axle:

The other place is the rear 2 piece shock tower on the same rig. The base plate is held to the tower by 3 screws and the outer holes on each side of the base plate hold the chassis and transmission together.

Takes a lot of stress when bashing and even though it holds for a long time, blue loctite will fail eventually and the screws bend easily once they loosen even a little. I bought red loctite for it because those 3 screws have no reason to ever be removed once put in so red loctite is perfect for holding them permenantly.
I'm pretty sure the small little tube of red loctite will last me the rest of my life.

 

[SrC]

Yeah if you have no reason to ever remove certain screws, Red will be the permanent fix. If it's a fastener that gets constantly removed, i.e. Wheel nuts for example, you may have a real hard time removing them. Even with Heat sometimes. Some Red TL even states for use where fasteners will be "replaced" and not reused. I find in some cases when Red is used with steel against alloy, that they will literally Seize to each other. All the heat in the world wont get them apart. Been there. TL is Acid based for the most part. And Torque pressure squeezing out the air between the threads is what makes the TL stay put. With 24 hours to cure. Air has to dispel, for it to work. Thats why a drop of TL alone, just sitting on the table, even for days , will not dry out in the open air. Stays as a liquid.