Kraton Good steering servo upgrade?

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Wow....
After reading this thread I'm kind of amazed we don't have a sticky for a servo spec graph /windows spreadsheet doc showing all the specs for 6v and 7.4v including a bec.
I feel there's so many good / money wise options here that it would really benefit the noobs including myself to the constant question of "what servo should I get".
Tons of killer info here though and thank you to everyone that shared!
 
Someplace we have a secret servos with amazing specs thread, it lists the servo manufacturer, the model, all the specs and some have links to where to buy.
 
Someplace we have a secret servos with amazing specs thread, it lists the servo manufacturer, the model, all the specs and some have links to where to buy.
I need that list!! I’m trying to find something better than what’s in there. Actually I need two. Lol
 
I put this in my kraton 6s will barely turn wheel in grass...stock ecs not sure if that the issue oe not..
 
Sorry i installed the EVO P2 BRUSHLESS Digital servo that was recommended in the thread and it will barely turn the wheels in short grass with my kraton 6s.
I guarantee a reefs 555 servo would solve all your problems, they put out more than rated torque, but they run around $125. I couldn't find much info on the EVO P2 BRUSHLESS Digital servo.
It looks like it's a 25kg servo and that is your problem. You need at a minimum 35kg servo, especially for huge tires like on a kraton imo.

A ds3235 on amazon or ebay is really cheap and would be a slight upgrade over the one you bought.
 
A ds3235 on amazon or ebay is really cheap and would be a slight upgrade over the one you bought.
From experience, a DS3235 35kg servo is way more than just a slight upgrade over lower Kg servos. Even with 6v BEC.
Also, many don't consider that the Servo saver contributes to lack of turnability. Servo may turn, wheels wont. Not always the servos fault.
Noticed more so with 35kg and up servos. Weaker servos don't make this so apparent. They struggle to turn anyway when the wheels stationary. Depending on the terrain.
And super fast servos means nothing if it struggles to turn and center.
 
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I have one in my mojave atm (ds3235), no complaints. It does what I need it to do. I agree with what you said. Also people sometimes forget to calibrate radio for the steering, but his problem above is from a 25kg servo that probably doesn't do rated as well.
 
DS3235's on 5 of my 6s rigs. Including my Mojave. The Moj wheels are smaller and respond faster as a result, regardless of the extra weight it has.
I see many guys choosing 25kg servos for their Mt 6s rigs, claim they have fast servo specs and all. Yet they are just underpowered, and fast servo speed specs become a moot point. Many don't even consider that the servo they choose and its specs are rated at higher BEC voltages.(7.4/8.4v) They are running them at 6v for instance (unadjustable BEC stock ESC's in many cases) so actual speed and torque may not be adequate.
 
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Sorry i installed the EVO P2 BRUSHLESS Digital servo that was recommended in the thread and it will barely turn the wheels in short grass with my kraton 6s.
Are your pillow balls too tight? That servo should have plenty of power to turn the wheels.
DS3235's on 5 of my 6s rigs. Including my Mojave. The Moj wheels are smaller and respond faster as a result, regardless of the extra weight it has.
I see many guys choosing 25kg servos for their Mt 6s rigs, claim they have fast servo specs and all. Yet they are just underpowered, and fast servo speed specs become a moot point. Many don't even consider that the servo they choose and its specs are rated at higher BEC voltages.(7.4/8.4v) They are running them at 6v for instance (unadjustable BEC stock ESC's in many cases) so actual speed and torque may not be adequate.
I love the DS3225MG servos before this pandemic you could get them for like $11 a pop on Banggood. I have 5 of them as well and not a single issue. I do have a DS3225SG and just like @olds97_lss mine developed a dead spot.
 
Yeah the 3235's have gone up in price. Even on Amz.
The only one possible issue that may result is with slop in the servo gears. I beat the crap out of my oldest (it would be dead by now if it was any other servo), and it has some slop. It has not been an issue at all. Still quiet and centers fine. All the slop across the whole steering bell crank from the servo to the wheels is such that this is so insignificant.
But I could see the gears being the only possible failure point. At this price that's fine. My other 3235's are like new. I run a few on 6v (Kraton and Mojo) and the others on 7.4v. Slight increase difference in speed. But speed is insignificant to me with these bashers. .11 vs .15 speeds with any servo if even accurate, seems insignificant. Torque increase is not noticeable to me with 7.4v . But they do run hotter for sure on 7.4v. 6v is adequate.

Servo specs are just a guideline. Not accurate. For most of them. The Reefs Triple 5 has been tested both over and under spec with many reviews. The Crawler crowd mostly focus on Reefs. They like splitting hairs on stall torque and stall amps.. Not so much on speed.
 
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Yeah the 3235's have gone up in price. Even on Amz.
The only one possible issue that may result is with slop in the servo gears. I beat the crap out of my oldest (it would be dead by now if it was any other servo), and it has some slop. It has not been an issue at all. Still quiet and centers fine. All the slop across the whole steering bell crank from the servo to the wheels is such that this is so insignificant.
But I could see the gears being the only possible failure point. At this price that's fine. My other 3235's are like new. I run a few on 6v (Kraton and Mojo) and the others on 7.4v. Slight increase difference in speed. But speed is insignificant to me with these bashers. .11 vs .15 speeds with any servo if even accurate, seems insignificant. Torque increase is not noticeable to me with 7.4v . But they do run hotter for sure on 7.4v. 6v is adequate.

Servo specs are just a guideline. Not accurate. For most of them. The Reefs Triple 5 has been tested both over and under spec with many reviews. The Crawler crowd mostly focus on Reefs. They like splitting hairs on stall torque and stall amps.. Not so much on speed.
It was more than some slop. @olds97_lss was worse than mine.

 
In that video, I thought I heard some BEC sag/brownout there at extreme range. Fans throttling up and down. What BEC voltage is that?
I have dissected these many times. If not the gears or a bent gear pin, it can be the output shaft(splined gear) how it sits into the potentiometer. The Pot. has a slot that meets the bottom of the output gear, and that can widen and centering becomes imprecise. I apply a drop of silicone grease in that spot when they are new. I water proof all of them out the box. Conformal coat etc. The o-ring under the output gear inside at the BB below the splines does bind that upper BB. So I remove the BB in the top cover, remove the o-ring and place the o-ring over the splines externally and place the arm over that. Using silicone grease throughout the whole shaft. It operates quicker, smoother. I grease the gears as they are not done well at all. I put a drop of oil on the motor bushing at the pinion side. The board gets conf coated. front and back. All wired solder joint too. All the case o-rings get greased or I use liquid electrical tape(mostly on my Crawlers). I do this to any servo I buy.
Just some ideas.

EDIT:
sometimes the motor itself can loosen in the case and it swivels, rocks both directions when operating left and right, turning the gears under load. Then you can get a quick pause or "flat spot" in its operation.
I check this and sometimes glue the motor in place if I think it will be a problem. Sometimes I will use Thermal adhesive glue because the motor is sleeved into the alloy center case.
 
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In that video, I thought I heard some BEC sag/brownout there at extreme range. Fans throttling up and down. What BEC voltage is that?
I have dissected these many times. If not the gears or a bent gear pin, it can be the output shaft(splined gear) how it sits into the potentiometer. The Pot. has a slot that meets the bottom of the output gear, and that can widen and centering becomes imprecise. I apply a drop of silicone grease in that spot when they are new. I water proof all of them out the box. Conformal coat etc. The o-ring under the output gear inside at the BB below the splines does bind that upper BB. So I remove the BB in the top cover, remove the o-ring and place the o-ring over the splines externally and place the arm over that. Using silicone grease throughout the whole shaft. It operates quicker, smoother. I grease the gears as they are not done well at all. I put a drop of oil on the motor bushing at the pinion side. The board gets conf coated. front and back. All wired solder joint too. All the case o-rings get greased or I use liquid electrical tape(mostly on my Crawlers). I do this to any servo I buy.
Just some ideas.

EDIT:
sometimes the motor itself can loosen in the case and it swivels, rocks both directions when operating left and right, turning the gears under load. Then you can get a quick pause or "flat spot" in its operation.
I check this and sometimes glue the motor in place if I think it will be a problem. Sometimes I will use Thermal adhesive glue because the motor is sleeved into the alloy center case.
I had the endpoints reset as I was going to reset them then I noticed that slop.

I didn't really bother to try and tear it apart, I had plenty of the MGs laying around so I just stuck it in my spare parts bin.
 
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