Gorgon Gorgon Tips and Tricks

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Xjeepguy

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I’ve done a few things to my Gorgon, and figured I’d share a few things with you to make it easier if you want to do the same.

1. Mounting a different body.
Many of you who already own other Arrmas, particularly 6s, will recognize these. They can be bought in many different lengths, and are perfect for this truck.
IMG_1033.jpeg


To use them, cut them to the length you need, drop them into the holes in the shock towers, where the factory body mounts go, and insert the big body pin through, just like you’re putting the factory body on.
IMG_1034.jpeg


I used a narrow 12.3” wheelbase crawler body and it fit pretty well.
IMG_1021.jpeg


You can mount the body as high or low as you want.


2. Upgrading the steering servo

I chose to install a Reefs Raw 500 servo in my Gorgon, because I had it laying around and I despise plastic gear servos.

Mounting the servo is pretty straight forward, just remove the 4 screws holding it in, remove the servo saver from the spline, and pull the stock servo out. The new servo mounts in the chassis exactly the same as the stock one obviously.

Here’s the crappy part. It’s a 23t spline and most of the rest of the community uses 25t spline. I don’t know of any aftermarket servo savers for this rig, so I had to make my own. You’ll need one of these:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=&s=arrma+servo+saver+25t

Remove the servo saver from the truck, by removing the single screw that attaches it to the little plastic link that the toe links are attached to, BE CAREFUL!! There is a spring under pressure in there that wants nothing more than to pierce your retina. Wear safety glasses or something. Try to just remove the part with the spline in it, without disturbing the spring. If you remove the spring, re-installing it will make you question your life’s choices. Pull the same part out of the red one, and snap it into the Gorgon servo saver. Now re-install the servo saver into the truck, and drop in the servo. Remember to set your centering, and screw it all together.

If you screw up and the spring has left the chat, you can reinstall it. It’s a royal pain, and requires hand strength, but it can be done.

You’ll notice two tiny holes in each of the halves of the servo saver housing. You can use drill bits, or anything that is at least. a couple inches long. Put the pins through both pieces, leaving a gap between them.
IMG_1031.jpeg


Insert the ends of the spring into the housing, up against the pins, like so.
IMG_1032.jpeg


Now press the middle of the spring into the servo saver while trying to press the two pieces together. Once together, handle it like it’s a bomb. Otherwise you’ll have to do this all over again. Carefully install it back in the truck.


IMG_1025.jpeg


I hope this helps you guys modify this thing, I have a bunch of other tips I’ll be adding during this build, and I want to see these $170 trucks reach their potential. ✌️
 
Yep. Wait till you see what’s next with this thing 😂

Thanks! I think it fits like it was made for it lol.

Hit me with a sneak peek or something..
👀
 
I’ve done a few things to my Gorgon, and figured I’d share a few things with you to make it easier if you want to do the same.

1. Mounting a different body.
Many of you who already own other Arrmas, particularly 6s, will recognize these. They can be bought in many different lengths, and are perfect for this truck. View attachment 328856

To use them, cut them to the length you need, drop them into the holes in the shock towers, where the factory body mounts go, and insert the big body pin through, just like you’re putting the factory body on. View attachment 328858

I used a narrow 12.3” wheelbase crawler body and it fit pretty well. View attachment 328859

You can mount the body as high or low as you want.


2. Upgrading the steering servo

I chose to install a Reefs Raw 500 servo in my Gorgon, because I had it laying around and I despise plastic gear servos.

Mounting the servo is pretty straight forward, just remove the 4 screws holding it in, remove the servo saver from the spline, and pull the stock servo out. The new servo mounts in the chassis exactly the same as the stock one obviously.

Here’s the crappy part. It’s a 23t spline and most of the rest of the community uses 25t spline. I don’t know of any aftermarket servo savers for this rig, so I had to make my own. You’ll need one of these:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=&s=arrma+servo+saver+25t

Remove the servo saver from the truck, by removing the single screw that attaches it to the little plastic link that the toe links are attached to, BE CAREFUL!! There is a spring under pressure in there that wants nothing more than to pierce your retina. Wear safety glasses or something. Try to just remove the part with the spline in it, without disturbing the spring. If you remove the spring, re-installing it will make you question your life’s choices. Pull the same part out of the red one, and snap it into the Gorgon servo saver. Now re-install the servo saver into the truck, and drop in the servo. Remember to set your centering, and screw it all together.

If you screw up and the spring has left the chat, you can reinstall it. It’s a royal pain, and requires hand strength, but it can be done.

You’ll notice two tiny holes in each of the halves of the servo saver housing. You can use drill bits, or anything that is at least. a couple inches long. Put the pins through both pieces, leaving a gap between them. View attachment 328861

Insert the ends of the spring into the housing, up against the pins, like so. View attachment 328862

Now press the middle of the spring into the servo saver while trying to press the two pieces together. Once together, handle it like it’s a bomb. Otherwise you’ll have to do this all over again. Carefully install it back in the truck.


View attachment 328863

I hope this helps you guys modify this thing, I have a bunch of other tips I’ll be adding during this build, and I want to see these $170 trucks reach their potential. ✌️
Dude, I thought you said the body was a big fail and looked like crap? Are you kidding? That looks fantastic! The proportions are perfect, and your paint color and decal scheme is outstanding. Not too busy, great color, looks the business. I love it, man!
 
Dude, I thought you said the body was a big fail and looked like crap? Are you kidding? That looks fantastic! The proportions are perfect, and your paint color and decal scheme is outstanding. Not too busy, great color, looks the business. I love it, man!
Thanks! I really love the new look. The suspension hasn’t been lowered or modified in any way, all I did was lower the body lol. The runs aren’t as visible due to what I like to call “strategic sticker placement”. 😂
You did it right for sure. Looks sweet. :cool:
Thanks man, much appreciated.
Great tips and that body is one of the best I've ever seen!
Thanks! And it was super easy to do.
Hit me with a sneak peek or something..
👀
I can’t lol. I don’t have the parts yet.
 
Awesome!

I keep picturing this truck with trenchers for some reason??
Beautiful man, you always do such a killer job
Thanks man, this truck takes a 14mm hex instead of 12mm, so options aren’t as plentiful for wheels. I’m going to look into it further, and trenchers are definitely what I’d like to have on there.
This looks great I just troubled through a new body today. What is the body you used exactly? Do you have a description or link?

View attachment 328895

View attachment 328896

View attachment 328897
I used the Creep 12.3” wheelbase crawler body.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-jci-creep-12.3-rock-crawler-body-clear-jco0403/p1126930

It fits really well, all I had to do is space out the front bumper about 3mm.
 
Thanks man, this truck takes a 14mm hex instead of 12mm, so options aren’t as plentiful for wheels. I’m going to look into it further, and trenchers are definitely what I’d like to have on there.

I used the Creep 12.3” wheelbase crawler body.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-jci-creep-12.3-rock-crawler-body-clear-jco0403/p1126930

It fits really well, all I had to do is space out the front bumper about 3mm.

I think just the proline with the different centers would work? But I'm not sure. I'm kind of a trencher fan boy even if they don't perform near as good as some other options I think they look killer 😂
 
3. Motor and ESC upgrade:

When choosing a brushless motor for the Gorgon, the length of the can needs to be at least 60mm to clear the chassis, without modification. I chose this:


IMG_1041.jpeg
IMG_1042.jpeg


It’s severe overkill for this truck, but so are most of my other rigs, so why not?

When installing the motor, be sure to clock it in such a way, that the wires exit the can facing the rear of the truck, that will allow for more wire clearance. Also, when meshing your gears, they should not be tight you should feel a tiny bit of a click between the teeth when rocking the spur back and forth. About 1mm of play back and forth
IMG_1049.jpeg


There is a nice clip right in the middle of the chassis to hold your motor wires. (Well done Arrma!)

This is the ESC I’m installing. It came as a combo with the motor. The other one is the Reedy I was running.
IMG_1045.jpeg


So the ESC install is pretty straight forward, just hook up the wires, servo tape it to the top of the chassis, then mount your switch. Just make sure you aren’t covering the hole that your battery lead comes out of.
IMG_1047.jpeg
IMG_1048.jpeg


That’s pretty much it for the motor/ESC combo.

4. I dislike rattles. As much as I love this truck, I hate having the battery rattling around in the compartment. I always keep the foam packaging from Traxxas upgrades, because they use really nice dense foam. I used 1/8” foam and cut it to fit my battery box.
IMG_1046.jpeg


Hope people can use these ideas and tips, especially beginners. I have a lot more upgrades to come, stay tuned. ✌️
 
3. Motor and ESC upgrade:

When choosing a brushless motor for the Gorgon, the length of the can needs to be at least 60mm to clear the chassis, without modification. I chose this:


View attachment 329269View attachment 329270

It’s severe overkill for this truck, but so are most of my other rigs, so why not?

When installing the motor, be sure to clock it in such a way, that the wires exit the can facing the rear of the truck, that will allow for more wire clearance. Also, when meshing your gears, they should not be tight you should feel a tiny bit of a click between the teeth when rocking the spur back and forth. About 1mm of play back and forth View attachment 329272

There is a nice clip right in the middle of the chassis to hold your motor wires. (Well done Arrma!)

This is the ESC I’m installing. It came as a combo with the motor. The other one is the Reedy I was running.
View attachment 329273

So the ESC install is pretty straight forward, just hook up the wires, servo tape it to the top of the chassis, then mount your switch. Just make sure you aren’t covering the hole that your battery lead comes out of. View attachment 329274View attachment 329275

That’s pretty much it for the motor/ESC combo.

4. I dislike rattles. As much as I love this truck, I hate having the battery rattling around in the compartment. I always keep the foam packaging from Traxxas upgrades, because they use really nice dense foam. I used 1/8” foam and cut it to fit my battery box. View attachment 329278

Hope people can use these ideas and tips, especially beginners. I have a lot more upgrades to come, stay tuned. ✌️
You did an amazing job. The body is freaking killer!! The tips are great and helpful! Would love to see a vid of you runnin it with the new motor. I was thinking you could save money when you get new wheels by only getting 2, since I doubt the front tires will ever see the ground again 😂😂
 
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