Got my first Arrma today (UK)!

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Batman

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
Received my Kraton 8s and some other goodies today, I've already fitted the JBI chassis, installed the Futaba receiver (will set it up tomorrow), made the aerial hole bigger and replaced the boring black tube with a neon orange one. I did have one issue when changing chassis, I tightened both shock towers down first and then had trouble aligning the tower to tower brace on the new chassis. I had to push the rear shock tower back a little for it to line up, is that normal, okay, something to worry about?

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Being in the UK it SUCKS that the car is VERSION 1, not the updated one like you guys have in the US and to be honest I'm not surprised even though Arrma was founded in the UK smh. From the manual I believe it says the centre diff is 1,000,000, front and rear are 500,000. I've ordered silicon ear plugs just in case. What are the best diff fluid settings for general bashing?

Even though I knew the car is 1/5th scale I really did not expect it to be as big as it is, it's MASSIVE! Some pictures of the Kraton 8s tyres in comparison to the tyres of my Redcat Rampage MT aka Maverick Blackout MT in the UK.

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Is it normal to find oil/grease outside of the red seal? I was careful enough when taking it apart to ensure I wasn't the cause of it being there. I've cleaned it up and put it back together.

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Also is it normal for a soft pack with almost the exact same specs to be so much smaller than a hardcase?


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Hey Buddy, Nice truck! the JBI chassis material moves a little when those pockets are cut out. Its fine, they mention that on there website. You can adjust the braces length a little if you need to.

The grease most likely squished out on assembly. I doubt that will be any issue, the 6s bulkheads don't even have a gasket.

The batteries are most likely the same size if you take that one out of its case. They will have some sort of cushion in there to make up the extra space in side of it.

Atm I'm running the stock diff fluid front and rear with silicone earplug in the center. I had I think 2 million in there and felt it was still too thin. Some guys are running 100million+ in there but I don't need another 30$ container of diff fluid when the earplugs are 5$ and work just fine...You may want to run a few packs through it and see what you think. Removing the screws out of the center diff housing is not for the faint of heart. the screws break really easy. get a little torch to heat them up before trying. Good luck with the truck.
 
Being in the UK it SUCKS that the car is VERSION 1, not the updated one like you guys have in the US and to be honest I'm not surprised even though Arrma was founded in the UK smh. From the manual I believe it says the centre diff is 1,000,000, front and rear are 500,000. I've ordered silicon ear plugs just in case. What are the best diff fluid settings for general bashing?

The major most problem for extreme bashers would be the chassis. You have the best aftermarket chassis available, that eliminates the chassis problem. The 2nd would be the CD screws. As mentioned, use plenty of heat. Then use 3 times that amount of heat. You are already in better shape than a "V-1.5" or however some call the newer one. Not really a version change, just a couple of different parts is all.
 
Congrats with the k8s.

When you are opening the center diff use much heat, and my experience was one side all 4 screw came out just fine, other side it was realy stuckt and i snapped 3 of 4 screws. So try carefully and see if one of the sides is easier, you only need to open one of the side to change the diff oil. Hope that helps :)

I have the same gens-ace-r-spam batteries, with 23T pinion they are littlebit on the edge tbh but it works.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys, hopefully my heat gun can help me against Arrma loctite.
 
Quick update, changed out the centre diff to silicon ear plugs, used over 2.5 earplugs. The heat gun worked great and was lucky not to round any of the screws or break my tools. Kraton's ready for it's maiden run tomorrow!
 
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