Kraton GP4 diff life expectancy

[TUFF TRUCK]

Hello All,
Anyone getting good life from the GP4 open diffs (not LSD ones)?

 

[SrC]

29mm "Open" GP4's are way better than standard 6s diffs. Better/stout main/input gears. The main difference from standard open RTR 6s diffs.
Handle 8s electrics better FWIW. Life expectancy is purely subjective. All Depends what you are comparing the GP4 Open diffs to. We all RC differently. In theory GP4's are always stronger due to the stronger Main/Input gears alone. Many attest to this.
GP4 is just a LSD, setup as "Open". Same diff otherwise.
I prefer Open diffs all around. Easier to dial in with oil weights. Many EXB rigs run best with Open at the Rear, if the center and front remain as LSD's.
LSD is dialed in with LSD "staging" of the LSD plates. Using thinner diff oil closer to stock weights.
I would only consider LSD at the center diff if anything.
My spin.

Edited.

 

[TUFF TRUCK]

29mm "Open" GP4's are way better than standard 6s diffs. Better/stout main/input gears. The main difference from standard open RTR 6s diffs.
Handle 8s electrics better FWIW. Life expectancy is purely subjective. All Depends what you are comparing the GP4 Open diffs to. We all RC differently. In theory GP4's are always stronger due to the stronger Main/Input gears alone. Many attest to this.
GP4 is just a LSD, setup as "Open". Same diff otherwise.
I prefer Open diffs all around. Easier to dial in with oil weights. Many EXB rigs run best with Open at the Rear, if the center and front remain as LSD's.
LSD is dialed in with LSD "staging" of the LSD plates. Using thinner diff oil closer to stock weights.
I would only consider LSD at the center diff if anything.
My spin.

Edited.

Thanks
I will be converting to the ultimate driveline:
GP4 gears F/R and centre
billet and steel diff housing (the new 29mm Arrma ones)
billet gearbox housing (GPM, HR are too expensive)
sick of stripping stuff with the big wheels I run
will let you all know how it goes.

 

[Velodromed]

Thanks
I will be converting to the ultimate driveline:
GP4 gears F/R and centre
billet and steel diff housing (the new 29mm Arrma ones)
billet gearbox housing (GPM, HR are too expensive)
sick of stripping stuff with the big wheels I run
will let you all know how it goes.

Curious to see how the GPM diff housing workout…

 

[TUFF TRUCK]

Curious to see how the GPM diff housing workout…

Fitment was great. The CNC tolerances are excellent. Material is 6061 Al which is quite tough.
All holes lined up really well. However two holes on the sway bar cover were not deep enough so I needed to shim under the cover to stop bottoming out the screws and stripping. You have to use different screw lengths all round as they have changed some of the thread depths.
I used as many high tensile screws as possible as GPM supply SS.
Bearings fit really well, they have upgraded the outer input bearing to a large overall dia (like what HR have done). Inner bearing is the same size as stock.
I had to add 2x shims on the crown gear to seat the diff well into the new gearbox housing
I have taken it for several runs, no F/R diff gear stripping/clicking anymore which is great. I run 3.8" Proline Trenchers all round with an Castle 8S ESC and motor. I also run an 11T motor pinion so starting torque on my driveline is huge. I also accelerate like they do in Topfuel; Flaaaat fookin out 0-100% like your life depended on it (we are bashing right?). GPM, gearboxes; so far so good and I am a fussy CU next Tuesday.

 

[Velodromed]

Fitment was great. The CNC tolerances are excellent. Material is 6061 Al which is quite tough.
All holes lined up really well. However two holes on the sway bar cover were not deep enough so I needed to shim under the cover to stop bottoming out the screws and stripping. You have to use different screw lengths all round as they have changed some of the thread depths.
I used as many high tensile screws as possible as GPM supply SS.
Bearings fit really well, they have upgraded the outer input bearing to a large overall dia (like what HR have done). Inner bearing is the same size as stock.
I had to add 2x shims on the crown gear to seat the diff well into the new gearbox housing
I have taken it for several runs, no F/R diff gear stripping/clicking anymore which is great. I run 3.8" Proline Trenchers all round with an Castle 8S ESC and motor. I also run an 11T motor pinion so starting torque on my driveline is huge. I also accelerate like they do in Topfuel; Flaaaat fookin out 0-100% like your life depended on it (we are bashing right?). GPM, gearboxes; so far so good and I am a fussy CU next Tuesday.

Nice! Sounds like it’s working for you well.

 

[parcou]

Hello All,
Anyone getting good life from the GP4 open diffs (not LSD ones)?

Yes....excellent just shim correctly.

 

[21STalion]

I've gone 120 packs with no excessive wear one two 29mm diffs. The other had a mishap early on but has been fine since.

They are good parts.

 

[IRONWORKER]

Wow man 120 packs, that’s awesome… Mine hold up pretty good but not that good!

 

[21STalion]

Wow man 120 packs, that’s awesome… Mine hold up pretty good but not that good!

I must admit that most of that was racing, so 85% is on 4s and sometimes even 3s.

Car handles so much better and is so much faster around the track on 4s lol

 

[Duggin]

They sure do handle better on 4s. I made the switch this spring.