Gpm shocks for 3s line

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Has anyone used these and had good success with them?? On the typhon specifically. Contemplating aether these or the proline shocks. Thicker oil will be added regardless. Maybe I'm over thinking things but the sound of the chassis slap after a jump makes me cringe every time. https://www.gpmparts.com/arrma-gran...damper-115mm-6pc-set-gpm-mag115r-p-13707.html
Haven’t tried the GPM ones yet (and never will) but as Tex Koder said, get the 6s shocks from Jenny’s, they work great.

Also, please keep in mind that that chassis slap is what’s saving your shocks from exploding after landing big jumps.
Without chassis slap you are running the risk of bending shock shafts, breaking pistons or blowing off shock caps.

Chassis slap is your friend 👍
 
Chassis slap is your friend 

i was trying to add spacers to the shocks on my first run with it at the skate park. There was just something about the sound of it slapping the concrete that I couldn't get used to. Maybe I will overcome that. The first run didn't last too long before busting a front shock mount and also busted the esc mounting tabs. Once I get those fixed, I'll pick up a set of the 6s shocks to try. Maybe with some 50wt oil to start.
 
^ Exactly this.

Chassis slap is okay. If you don't chassis slap, all of the force is being transferred to remaining components, which is not good. Chassis and all attached components can handle a large amount of abuse from landing on the ground (slapping). Your hinge pins, A-arms, shocks, and shock towers are not designed to absorb all of the energy of the falling truck.
 
Chassis slap is normal and needed really. If you try to set up to avoid it you’ll be putting a lot of stress on the arms and where they connect to the chassis.

Not sure about those GPM shocks. Never used them but haven’t heard great things about them either. I love 6s shocks on the 3s line and have them on 5, 3 and 4s cars. 6s typhon shocks are pricey. So are the following but not quite as much. I like 6s front Kraton shocks for the rear and 6s front mojave shocks for the front.

You also need axial bushings for the top mount and since the stock springs are pretty heavy, team associated yellow springs. So yeah, they are pricey but last a long time (all mine are around 2 years old) and work extremely well. They aren’t as expensive as proline shocks though, I think, and parts are readily available for servicing and in case you manage to bend a rod some how.
 
^ Exactly this.































Chassis slap is okay. If you don't chassis slap, all of the force is being transferred to remaining components, which is not good. Chassis and all attached components can handle a large amount of abuse from landing on the ground (slapping). Your hinge pins, A-arms, shocks, and shock towers are not designed to absorb all of t
The extra spacers must be what helped break the shock tower
he energy of the falling truck.
Having a lot of issues with this site on my phone. goes haywire when i try to quote/reply
 
The GPM shocks are more of a bling item than anything else. Some have tried them and had them leak or fall apart.
The Prolines are nice but cost half the price of the car.
 
New to this as well lads, Granite 3s BXL V3 and was thinking the same about the chassis slap. Glad to hear you guys say it’s normal. Is a chassis skin or plate worth while? Do I really need to upgrade the shocks? Pro line and the Typhon 6s will pretty much run me the same $$ here in Oz or are there more important/better upgrades I should do first? Also have to consider the truck cost me $550 so spending $200 at a minimum on shocks straight away seems excessive. Could put that to a 6s car. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 
New to this as well lads, Granite 3s BXL V3 and was thinking the same about the chassis slap. Glad to hear you guys say it’s normal. Is a chassis skin or plate worth while? Do I really need to upgrade the shocks? Pro line and the Typhon 6s will pretty much run me the same $$ here in Oz or are there more important/better upgrades I should do first? Also have to consider the truck cost me $550 so spending $200 at a minimum on shocks straight away seems excessive. Could put that to a 6s car. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
The stock shocks will serve you well after you top them off with oil and bleed properly. Use just enough plastic spacers to set the ride height around even, with the arms close to parallel with the ground.

You’re probably better off putting your money into decent tools, shock and differential oils, extra screws, a few extra parts and so forth. No need to jump on expensive upgrades until you get to know driving and working on the car stock. Also figure out what you like to do, such as jumping, high speed running and so forth.
 
New to this as well lads, Granite 3s BXL V3 and was thinking the same about the chassis slap. Glad to hear you guys say it’s normal. Is a chassis skin or plate worth while? Do I really need to upgrade the shocks? Pro line and the Typhon 6s will pretty much run me the same $$ here in Oz or are there more important/better upgrades I should do first? Also have to consider the truck cost me $550 so spending $200 at a minimum on shocks straight away seems excessive. Could put that to a 6s car. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
Several of ours are running stock shocks. They seem to be holding up great for us.

I would seal up the power module first thing. I have done that to every 3S RC we have. You will thank us later. You can search the forum for various methods and pictures.

I also cut small lexan strips and shoe goo'd them to the top and rear of the Granite bodies, still running several stock bodies :LOL:
 
C
The stock shocks will serve you well after you top them off with oil and bleed properly. Use just enough plastic spacers to set the ride height around even, with the arms close to parallel with the ground.

You’re probably better off putting your money into decent tools, shock and differential oils, extra screws, a few extra parts and so forth. No need to jump on expensive upgrades until you get to know driving and working on the car stock. Also figure out what you like to do, such as jumping, high speed running and so forth.
The stock shocks will serve you well after you top them off with oil and bleed properly. Use just enough plastic spacers to set the ride height around even, with the arms close to parallel with the ground.

You’re probably better off putting your money into decent tools, shock and differential oils, extra screws, a few extra parts and so forth. No need to jump on expensive upgrades until you get to know driving and working on the car stock. Also figure out what you like to do, such as jumping, high speed running and so forth.
cheers mate, was watching a vid on the shocks last night so ordered some oil and will top them up and bleed them when I get home. Granite is going to be used for off-road bashing and jumps. Will get a few different cars to do different things, seems to be the way to go.
Several of ours are running stock shocks. They seem to be holding up great for us.

I would seal up the power module first thing. I have done that to every 3S RC we have. You will thank us later. You can search the forum for various methods and pictures.

I also cut small lexan strips and shoe goo'd them to the top and rear of the Granite bodies, still running several stock bodies :LOL:
Cheers mate, will look into this, I’ve seen some say seal it up and others say cut a hole in the chassis. Definitely need to get a dust cover, after a few packs at the footy oval and skate park she was full of rocks and dust etc. tried to keep her clean between packs but filled up again pretty quick.will be getting some lexan, shop goo and plasterers tape when I get home to reinforce the body. I’ve also already purchased a new one so she looks pretty when not being used lol
 
C


Cheers mate, will look into this, I’ve seen some say seal it up and others say cut a hole in the chassis. Definitely need to get a dust cover, after a few packs at the footy oval and skate park she was full of rocks and dust etc. tried to keep her clean between packs but filled up again pretty quick.will be getting some lexan, shop goo and plasterers tape when I get home to reinforce the body. I’ve also already purchased a new one so she looks pretty when not being used lol
Fiberglass concrete board tape is far more sturdier than drywall tape. I find it easier to work with also. Dust covers work but if you have summer heat over 90°f best take it off. I shake my cars out every few minutes while I’m driving off. Pick it up, turn it upside down and shake, then hold at an angle, so everything falls out the back.

I prefer to seal underneath the spur with the soft side of Velcro. It doesn’t hurt to cut a hole and I have on one of my chassis, but I also clean out the motor module often enough so it’s not an issue. The combination of soft Velcro as well as cleaning it out every few runs is the key to keeping it healthy.

Also, I like to put an o-ring underneath the pinion gear, fitting into that little slot where the motor shaft goes into, along with a little o-ring grease under it. I also seal all of the mounting holes in the motor can that aren’t being used with electrical tape. I use a blower to dust off the cars after every run as well as wiping it down, and I do not like to run in the wet whatsoever.

Check the tires often. When they’re brand new, I like to reinforce the glue bed. After every run or two I look over the bead cheerfully as well as look for a little tears, nicks and hit those with rubberized CA glue. Lastly, I do a full teardown every 3 to 4 weeks. Replace parts that are starting to go out, service or replace bearings, clean everything well and make sure it’s healthy. I have half a dozen 3/4s cars so it’s kind of a constant rotation.
 
C
Fiberglass concrete board tape is far more sturdier than drywall tape. I find it easier to work with also. Dust covers work but if you have summer heat over 90°f best take it off. I shake my cars out every few minutes while I’m driving off. Pick it up, turn it upside down and shake, then hold at an angle, so everything falls out the back.

I prefer to seal underneath the spur with the soft side of Velcro. It doesn’t hurt to cut a hole and I have on one of my chassis, but I also clean out the motor module often enough so it’s not an issue. The combination of soft Velcro as well as cleaning it out every few runs is the key to keeping it healthy.

Also, I like to put an o-ring underneath the pinion gear, fitting into that little slot where the motor shaft goes into, along with a little o-ring grease under it. I also seal all of the mounting holes in the motor can that aren’t being used with electrical tape. I use a blower to dust off the cars after every run as well as wiping it down, and I do not like to run in the wet whatsoever.

Check the tires often. When they’re brand new, I like to reinforce the glue bed. After every run or two I look over the bead cheerfully as well as look for a little tears, nicks and hit those with rubberized CA glue. Lastly, I do a full teardown every 3 to 4 weeks. Replace parts that are starting to go out, service or replace bearings, clean everything well and make sure it’s healthy. I have half a dozen 3/4s cars so it’s kind of a constant rotation.
Cheers mate sounds like you have it down and a good routine to maintenance. Will try to do the same, easy with just the 1 at the moment, could turn into a full weekend if I keep buying cars lol
 
Fiberglass concrete board tape is far more sturdier than drywall tape. I find it easier to work with also. Dust covers work but if you have summer heat over 90°f best take it off. I shake my cars out every few minutes while I’m driving off. Pick it up, turn it upside down and shake, then hold at an angle, so everything falls out the back.

I prefer to seal underneath the spur with the soft side of Velcro. It doesn’t hurt to cut a hole and I have on one of my chassis, but I also clean out the motor module often enough so it’s not an issue. The combination of soft Velcro as well as cleaning it out every few runs is the key to keeping it healthy.

Also, I like to put an o-ring underneath the pinion gear, fitting into that little slot where the motor shaft goes into, along with a little o-ring grease under it. I also seal all of the mounting holes in the motor can that aren’t being used with electrical tape. I use a blower to dust off the cars after every run as well as wiping it down, and I do not like to run in the wet whatsoever.

Check the tires often. When they’re brand new, I like to reinforce the glue bed. After every run or two I look over the bead cheerfully as well as look for a little tears, nicks and hit those with rubberized CA glue. Lastly, I do a full teardown every 3 to 4 weeks. Replace parts that are starting to go out, service or replace bearings, clean everything well and make sure it’s healthy. I have half a dozen 3/4s cars so it’s kind of a constant rotation.
I find that aluminum tape for ducting works great for sealing the unused holes, I also use that for sealing the end of my eBay motors that have the hole in the back of the can.
 
I find that aluminum tape for ducting works great for sealing the unused holes, I also use that for sealing the end of my eBay motors that have the hole in the back of the can.
I’ve tried different things and found electrical tape, being very thin, does not interfere with the motor interface to the mount. I use one of those school hole punches and just put a little dot over each hole. I also put a square of it on the rear of the can for those exposed bearing motors. How thick is aluminum tape?
 
I’ve tried different things and found electrical tape, being very thin, does not interfere with the motor interface to the mount. I use one of those school hole punches and just put a little dot over each hole. I also put a square of it on the rear of the can for those exposed bearing motors. How thick is aluminum tape?

My digital calipers say this.
1676417698212526224466989969966.jpg
 
My digital calipers say this.
View attachment 278245
They don’t seem to have much to say 😂
So that’s aluminum tape, basically thin as scotch tape. Sweet, I will look for some of that.
I find that aluminum tape for ducting works great for sealing the unused holes, I also use that for sealing the end of my eBay motors that have the hole in the back of the can.
It’s not that bad. I don’t drive my cars all at once. I have my main two that I drive more often so they require the most maintenance. It gets pretty easy after doing it enough.
 
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