Big Rock GPMRacing - Wheel Driveshafts

[razorrc]

Send me your truck and $34 and I'll set your slipper properly.

 

[xertian]

Send me your truck and $34 and I'll set your slipper properly.

I applaud your consistency in communication pattern and style. Bravo.

 

[bicketybam]

Send me your truck and $34 and I'll set your slipper properly.

I can set the slipper so that it drives like a wet noodle too.

I appreciate the work you do for the RC community but if you think an improperly set slipper is the only way to break a wheel driveshaft I have a bridge to sell you ?

 

[slick2500]

I can set the slipper so that it drives like a wet noodle too.

I appreciate the work you do for the RC community but if you think an improperly set slipper is the only way to break a wheel driveshaft I have a bridge to sell you ?

I thought you had land on the moon?

 

[razorrc]

I applaud your consistency in communication pattern and style. Bravo.

Yah, I can be kinda a ****. But if you read my posts across various forums, I actually put out a lot of helpful information too. My biggest pet peeve is when someone asks something, and then 10 people reply with completely the wrong thing to do, and then that person goes and wastes money on something stupid when they could've saved that money for something a lot more useful. Like another RC car.

I can set the slipper so that it drives like a wet noodle too.

I appreciate the work you do for the RC community but if you think an improperly set slipper is the only way to break a wheel driveshaft I have a bridge to sell you ?

Some RC cars need metal driveshafts, but if you're running a stock 3S/4S Arrma 4x4, it's fine. 95% of the time people are breaking driveshafts is due to user error. The other 5%, just buy some replacement plastic driveshafts and put them on.

Or go ahead and replace everything plastic in your Arrma 4x4 with metal, crank down that slipper to 11, and then wonder why you are ripping tires apart, breaking metal outdrives, plastic center shafts, etc.

I'm being a bit facetious, but if I had a dollar for every time someone thought they needed metal driveshafts on their Arrma/Traxxas/whatever when all they really needed to do is figure how to properly set their car (for free)... I'd be able to buy that bridge of yours.

Dispelling one myth at a time. Pretty soon I'll have all of you convinced that plastic driveshafts are fine, you need to set your slipper correctly, and the STX2 is a decent radio.

 

[PaPa Thorn]

Dispelling one myth at a time. Pretty soon I'll have all of you convinced that plastic driveshafts are fine, you need to set your slipper correctly, and the STX2 is a decent radio.

Good luck on that last one. You'd have a better chance of convincing me that the world is flat.

 

[Megasty]

Dispelling one myth at a time. Pretty soon I'll have all of you convinced that plastic driveshafts are fine, you need to set your slipper correctly, and the STX2 is a decent radio.

You might go somewhere with the first 2 but the last 1 . . . . I have the burned remains of 2 of them buried in my backyard. It made great compost with plenty of fall leaves. As for slippers, I have 6 cars in total running them & I hate them all. Give me a center diff option any day. My 4s Losi MT will stomp my poor Granite 3s BLX all day. Then there's the Losi Truggy I bought the upgrade kit for but haven't installed it yet. The diffs in those 2 cars even put the 6s Arrma's to shame. None of my Traxxas stuff is running slippers & both the Stampede & Slash have dirt cheap integy style metal driveshafts - but my Stampede has VERY little Traxxas stuff left & my Slash 4x4 having NO Traxxas parts at all.

The main problem with so-called upgrades is that people automatically think they will help rather than think about what other problems they will cause if they even work correctly. Those people are call guinea pigs.

 

[AimlessRC]

Hell, I'm all for being a Guinea pig... I have had no issues with anything I've installed on my RC so far... but I have yet to "bash" like most people do. I crash a LOT into concrete, plastic barriers, asphalt tumbles, hard grass and dirt landings, countless cartwheels.

My thought has always been that aluminum snaps... plastic flexes. If you want a stiff chassis and a performance truck... go aluminum. If you want to launch it 50 feet and drive away from a crap landing... go plastic.

Telescopic CVD shafts would be only "hard" part I would run in a basher, but even then, they wont survive long with hard bashing and a bad landing or two (go ask bickety). My Hot Racing ones have been flawless so far, but things eventually wear out and break.

Have they completely transformed the truck? Absolutely not... but I'm not popping rear shaft joints anymore.

People need to take their intended purpose into account when upgrading, and upgrade accordingly.

That being said. Ebay has free shipping on these and I'm buying a set. I'll throw the HR units on the front and stick the GPM ones on the rear for initial testing.

We'll see if they show up by the end of September. Haha.

 

[Megasty]

There's nothing wrong with being a Guinea pig. I'll admit I wasted a truck load of money on part failures but I also have a fair amount of success. I wouldn't have any Traxxas cars if I didn't keep trying new 3rd party upgrades until I found stuff that would work, especially for that diff-eating 6s X-Maxx. Yet, I still have the truck & can jump it full send until LVC & not break anything. It only took 2 years of suffering, throwing the POS in a corner, giving up a few times, hitting a bottle or 2, late night rebuild sessions, etc. 4 years later, I have 2 more X-Maxx's (8s rollers) that never had to see the failures or breakages of the 6s POS. It's still hard to say I'd do it all over again even if I 100% knew that I would reach this point with these trucks - that I could drop 1/5 systems, belt drives, mod 1.5 gears, 3rd party helical diffs, with all the hub/arms upgrades & actually have something that's remotely bashable.

We'll see if they show up by the end of September. Haha.

I have a nice amount of stuff on that slow boat as I type. Most have been in the 2-3 week range.

 

[SrC]

I was was using some GPM parts on my first Crawler with success. But then I got Lockouts F+R that were a nightmare. A No-Fit. Warranty screwed me over. Stuck with the lockouts after more than a month of back and forth emails. RCMart didn't help either, they dumped the problem on GPM initially. Then no refund after wasting time with GPM. Not crazy about RCMart RCMart is a big vendor of GPM, and know the game with GPM. I think GPM may be RCMARTS store brand. That's the way I felt dealing with them. I felt being in the States made it easier for them to blow me off. Just a gut feeling I had with them. Return shipping was more than the price of the parts. I was had. They knew it.
But sometimes we are looking for a solution to an OE part and we have to try a disappointing brand that offers hope. GPM is a mixed bag. One can try them out. I have more than $40.00 in useless GPM parts. I wont touch that Brand again. Or use RCMart.
It also appears tha GPM uses soft aluminum. These Lockouts appear soft.

 

[SrC]

Yah, I can be kinda a ****. But if you read my posts across various forums, I actually put out a lot of helpful information too. My biggest pet peeve is when someone asks something, and then 10 people reply with completely the wrong thing to do, and then that person goes and wastes money on something stupid when they could've saved that money for something a lot more useful. Like another RC car.



Some RC cars need metal driveshafts, but if you're running a stock 3S/4S Arrma 4x4, it's fine. 95% of the time people are breaking driveshafts is due to user error. The other 5%, just buy some replacement plastic driveshafts and put them on.

Or go ahead and replace everything plastic in your Arrma 4x4 with metal, crank down that slipper to 11, and then wonder why you are ripping tires apart, breaking metal outdrives, plastic center shafts, etc.

I'm being a bit facetious, but if I had a dollar for every time someone thought they needed metal driveshafts on their Arrma/Traxxas/whatever when all they really needed to do is figure how to properly set their car (for free)... I'd be able to buy that bridge of yours.

Dispelling one myth at a time. Pretty soon I'll have all of you convinced that plastic driveshafts are fine, you need to set your slipper correctly, and the STX2 is a decent radio.

Setting a slipper properly can be hard and confusing to many. But done properly protects the drive train. No question. Some people don't like the latency effect of a properly adjusted one. And go too tight. User error will always be an issue. So many variables.
But you could never sell me on the STX2. I guess you are joking....?

 

[SrC]

Good luck on that last one. You'd have a better chance of convincing me that the world is flat.

But the world is really flat dude. Why don't people understand that. Its been proven 500 years ago. People just forgot that it is flat.

 

[AimlessRC]

I did a bunch of research on the GPM shafts for Traxxas RC and there are a ton of videos and reviews. Some are obvious GPM fanboys, some are gratuity reviews... but the few that are hard-earned-money reviews are pretty promising. I will gamble the $33.88 on the slow-boat parts!

 

[SrC]

Hey, you are the better man. Go for it. It helps out many here. Gotta tread the waters sometimes to see where it gets you.

 

[xertian]

My parts showed up today. That was 4 days from order to my doorstep (U.S./PNW). I'll get some pictures and try to share some info tonight.

 

[SrC]

It was a fast boat?

 

[AimlessRC]

My parts showed up today. That was 4 days from order to my doorstep (U.S./PNW). I'll get some pictures and try to share some info tonight.

Did you order from Ebay or GPM direct?

 

[xertian]

Did you order from Ebay or GPM direct?

GPM directly. None of the ebay sellers had more than one in inventory when I checked....at least not in a color I was willing to bother with.

 

[AimlessRC]

GPM directly. None of the ebay sellers had more than one in inventory when I checked....at least not in a color I was willing to bother with.

Nice. I only bought 1, in orange...

 

[xertian]

I snapped a few pics and dropped them in an album for those interested. I'm not certain how this forum software manages media so I apologize in advance if they are ridiculously huge. My first impressions are that these things look pretty beefy. Only the slider is aluminum and it shows on the scale. There are no spares included and I'm not certain why there is a grub/set screw in addition to the normal flat head screw that goes into the end of the output shaft. I may get these installed tonight but a test run is not going to happen.

View album 16

I'd be curious to see these.

At first glance I was thinking, "all right, time for the Senton to go back into party mode."
But the more I look closely, I am not so sure about them.

View attachment 45355

Looking at pictures 2 and 3, it almost looks like the axle end has a round inside diameter and they are using a single grub screw to transfer the power. I originally thought they were using that to just locate the inner portion of the axle, but they use the flat head screw seen in picture 4 for that.

Considering the cost to make the internal splines vs just a round inside diameter, I don't have a ton of hope. Whoever gets a set, take some pics of the diff side of the axle.

Done. If I understood your comments correctly, I think the results are better than initially expected. There are splines where there should be splines. How they hold up is obviously the next big question.