Big Rock GPMRacing - Wheel Driveshafts

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Sorry for the lack of updates on my recent breakage. Not gonna lie, this has sapped some of my enthusiasm for the truck and it's been sitting ever since. I haven't pulled the parts off for replacement or pictures but I did just reach out to GPM for warranty support. I'll of course let you guys know how that goes.
 
So apparently GPM in the US won't be able to help me because I bought directly from HK so warranty support hasn't gone anywhere yet. On a related note, I did open up a dialog with MIP about get some parts created for us. There's a new thread where I'm aggregating some links to send along to them at their request. I'll update this post with a link to that thread.

If anyone is interested...
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...iveshafts-for-granite-brcc.14600/#post-182373
 
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I ordered a set of these just before you broke yours xertian.
Can you post a pic of the breakage?
Wondering if there will be any way to prevent this. I have just started my new Granite build now.
I was going to use Typhon arms but the setup looked too long for the GPM shafts.....
 
I ordered a set of these just before you broke yours xertian.
Can you post a pic of the breakage?
Wondering if there will be any way to prevent this. I have just started my new Granite build now.
I was going to use Typhon arms but the setup looked too long for the GPM shafts.....

I'll get a pic up tomorrow evening. I'd say there's no way to prevent the breakage I saw unless you are a seriously excellent tig welder.
 
Thanks for the pics.

Odd breakage. When i see the bad landings i did on the front wheel with the GPM on front, on asphalt covered by dust, sand and gravel, nothing went wrong.

After i have mounted the GPM cvd, i checked the steering angle to see if the aluminum tuve/axle can come in colision with the metal wheel axle or the axle with the splited ball, nothing was bad. I even look at the wear out on the metal axle, we can see that something rub it but not in a too bad way.
 
GPM Hong Kong has replied to the picture they asked that I share and are sending me some replacements. It took a few days of waiting for replies but very little back and forth. I'll demo/film my slipper setup once I have the replacement installed as requested by @razorrc
 
Waking up an old thread. Have anyone tried these on a Typhon or a brcc with Typhon arms?
 
Yah, I can be kinda a ****. But if you read my posts across various forums, I actually put out a lot of helpful information too. My biggest pet peeve is when someone asks something, and then 10 people reply with completely the wrong thing to do, and then that person goes and wastes money on something stupid when they could've saved that money for something a lot more useful. Like another RC car. :)



Some RC cars need metal driveshafts, but if you're running a stock 3S/4S Arrma 4x4, it's fine. 95% of the time people are breaking driveshafts is due to user error. The other 5%, just buy some replacement plastic driveshafts and put them on.

Or go ahead and replace everything plastic in your Arrma 4x4 with metal, crank down that slipper to 11, and then wonder why you are ripping tires apart, breaking metal outdrives, plastic center shafts, etc.

I'm being a bit facetious, but if I had a dollar for every time someone thought they needed metal driveshafts on their Arrma/Traxxas/whatever when all they really needed to do is figure how to properly set their car (for free)... I'd be able to buy that bridge of yours.

Dispelling one myth at a time. Pretty soon I'll have all of you convinced that plastic driveshafts are fine, you need to set your slipper correctly, and the STX2 is a decent radio. :)
I have to say you are correct about the drive shafts,but the STX2 radio as a system isn't really good unless you run in an RF "quiet" environment ie: the receiver sucks
 
STX2 is just horrible. Please do your self a favor any get anything else in a radio. Two people running the same STX 2 have been known to even have problems 99% of the time. They cannot run together. Its dangereous. That's how bad that radio sucks. Interfernce Rejection is (n)(n)(n)
You don't don't know what you are missing. You cant enjoy your rig with it. ALL STX2's Are DEFECTIVE. Like mine was also. Simply put.:cool:
 
I have to say you are correct about the drive shafts,but the STX2 radio as a system isn't really good unless you run in an RF "quiet" environment ie: the receiver sucks
Unfortunately we don't live in a "signal quiet environment" these days. Our surface RC radios were licensed for 2.4ghz by the FCC and world standard. They provide a limited low power wave strength by design and regulations world wide. USA has more available channels compared to EU or has in the past with 2.4ghz (also 27,49,72,75MHZ). Think about all the devices that run now over 2.4. freq's. Cells Wifi ,Cell Towers, etc. Other users of this Freq. have a much stronger signal, again by design and regulation. you need a quality Tx/Rx ($100.+/-) with good interference rejection and Fast channel coding to compete in a noisy signal environment in this frequency.
Alot of RTR Radios are at a pricepoint where it fails badly in this regard. I think those radios are dangerous for a 15 pound 1/8 scale rig coming at you at 40+mph with sudden loss of control to stop it . Happens more than one thinks. IMO. A liability. RC's of late are very fast and heavy.
 
Unfortunately we don't live in a "signal quiet environment" these days. Our surface RC radios were licensed for 2.4ghz by the FCC and world standard. They provide a limited low power wave strength by design and regulations world wide. USA has more available channels compared to EU or has in the past with 2.4ghz (also 27,49,72,75MHZ). Think about all the devices that run now over 2.4. freq's. Cells Wifi ,Cell Towers, etc. Other users of this Freq. have a much stronger signal, again by design and regulation. you need a quality Tx/Rx ($100.+/-) with good interference rejection and Fast channel coding to compete in a noisy signal environment in this frequency.
Alot of RTR Radios are at a pricepoint where it fails badly in this regard. I think those radios are dangerous for a 15 pound 1/8 scale rig coming at you at 40+mph with sudden loss of control to stop it . Happens more than one thinks. IMO. A liability. RC's of late are very fast and heavy.
I guess the sarcasm wasn't cutting through. As Bob Villa would say "Nice house but the roof,walls and foundation have to go"
 
my granite is down, I just got the rear aluminum hubs from HR. one of the plastic rear hubs kinda of melted down when the bearing ceased and it start s[inning against the plastic. Also damaged one of rear drive shafts. ordered the GPM CVD drive shaft also. It's current estimated date of arrival is now March 5th. I typically don't upgrade till something brakes and then depending on what and how I may upgrade. If it arrives as scheduled it will only be 7 weeks from date of order, freaking ridiculous. BTW had already installed the HR front hubs some time back and they are great!
 
I've learned a lot from this forum, here's some give back. So I just got the GPM granite drive shaft from across the ocean. First impression was that they were heavy, so I weight them. A complete original composite rear weighs 18 grams (one side only). The metal very heavy duty GPM's weigh 56 grams. That's a lot of difference and seems the heaviest part is are the hubs. Wonder if it will put too much stress on the diff or motor. Am gonna go ahead and install them and see what happens. As far as workmanship they look great and machine nicely. I also got the rear metal hubs from hot racing. I think you probably want to do that at the same time too. Here's some pictures or the GPM drive shafts. I'll post again after a few bashing if something worthy happens.

20210216_203801.jpg


20210216_213709.jpg


20210216_214151.jpg
 
Can Anyone suggest the best Drive Shaft and suspension kit for Arrma big rock? I`m tired of this crappy plastics that it came with. Changed twice already and it`s just not working for me. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
 
I got a Granite not a big rock, I think the parts are compatible but check. Am using the GPM drive shafts and the tekno shocks. They are expensive but the best I think.
 
I got a Granite not a big rock, I think the parts are compatible but check. Am using the GPM drive shafts and the tekno shocks. They are expensive but the best I think.
Thanks for your reply. I was about to purchase GPM drive shafts, but everyone here seems to hate it lol.
 
GPM parts are hit and miss, their drive shafts are heavy but they won't break. You'll wait a while for them but I love them. The tekno shocks are the best!
 
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