Granite Granite 3S BLX & T-Bone TBR XV6 Front Bumper

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gpb1215

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Hello! I’m new to the forum and I appreciate all this great information. Has anyone installed the newer version of T-Bone’s TBR XV6 front bumper (with the aluminum hinge pin cover) on their Granite 3S BLX? Their install video is not updated and they have been non-responsive to my e-mails. With some heat, I was able to install it but it seems like the front of the bumper needs to be longer. Thanks in advance!
 

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good luck with them. t bone has been hit and miss. ive had issuse's with them also with emails.
 
Hello! I’m new to the forum and I appreciate all this great information. Has anyone installed the newer version of T-Bone’s TBR XV6 front bumper (with the aluminum hinge pin cover) on their Granite 3S BLX? Their install video is not updated and they have been non-responsive to my e-mails. With some heat, I was able to install it but it seems like the front of the bumper needs to be longer. Thanks in advance!
What is the issue? could you please post a picture with the body on for reference.
 
Hello! I’m new to the forum and I appreciate all this great information. Has anyone installed the newer version of T-Bone’s TBR XV6 front bumper (with the aluminum hinge pin cover) on their Granite 3S BLX? Their install video is not updated and they have been non-responsive to my e-mails. With some heat, I was able to install it but it seems like the front of the bumper needs to be longer. Thanks in advance!


Get rid of the aluminum angle.. absolute disaster.. it does way more harm than good... the bumper will never sit against the chassis with it there, it can RIP the large screw out of the diff case, or snap the diff case when it get snagged...I designed a fix for this issue and shared the stl files here on the forum with everyone.. you can go that route, or use the factory front skid under the tbone bumper..you will need to fashion some spacers that sit in the tapered shank on the factory plate, so the screws don't tear through the tbone bumper...but 100% get rid of that aluminum angle..

Total failure on tbones part, I offered the fix.. and no reply .. thier loss...
What is the issue? could you please post a picture with the body on for reference.



Issue is here, like always... destined to destroy the chassis and upper diff case..
It's not that the bumper needs to be bent more, it's the bumper was not designed for that aluminum angle.. it was a botched half a$$ attempt at shutting people up... the sad part is a majority people were actually happy with the fix and praised them for it... mind blown! ?
 

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Thank you for all your responses! I think I'm going to reinstall the stock bumper and wait for a better option.
 
Thank you for all your responses! I think I'm going to reinstall the stock bumper and wait for a better option.


The bumper itself is fine, I would just run it... but put your factory lower skid under it to retain the hinge pin plate and pins.. it's quite simple to fashion some spacers for it.. you can use a similar tapered screw and drill the head off it for the tapered spacer, and the other you can use the tbone aluminium spacer for the rear screw...
 
Looks like they didn’t revise the length of the bumper to accommodate the sharp corner on new hinge pin cover. Yep, the bumper sheet should have been made longer and hole positions updated.
Thank you for all your responses! I think I'm going to reinstall the stock bumper and wait for a better option.

Don’t do that. You can make it work and get it close until they send you a correct piece. Do you have access to a bench grinder or even a Dremel? If so, grind the sharp corner of the aluminum piece into a radius or a 45 angle (chamfer) and then the sheet will bend around it tighter which would then raise the part that is now too low.
 
Looks like they didn’t revise the length of the bumper to accommodate the sharp corner on new hinge pin cover. Yep, the bumper sheet should have been made longer and hole positions updated.


Even then, it would need to be completely revised with a step in the part to accommodate the aluminum angle.. so even if it was longer in the arched section to get past the angle, it still will never sit flush on the chassis without a step in the mould...

Imo They were grasping at straws to get all the hate off thier back...
 
Imo They were grasping at straws to get all the hate off thier back...
Yep, my thoughts exactly. Actually, IIRC, a member from here came up with it and posted it in their thread. Looks like they just copied it and didn’t even review it.
 
In my experience T-bone has been the worst company to deal with. Emails get completely ignored, strong plastic but poorly designed and cause more issues than what it’s worth, making your truck less reliable. I forget who always says “R.I.P. T-bone“, but they’re exactly right.
 
I have had all the same problems. Read all the same problems. I like the look but the fitment is crap. I emailed them and they told me to send them pics. Like they don't know what I was talking about. Give me a break. It doesn't fit plain and simple. I would be ashamed of the product. Wish I would have found more of the negative when I first ordered. I would never have purchased. To expensive to fit like dog crap.
 
Get rid of the aluminum angle.. absolute disaster.. it does way more harm than good... the bumper will never sit against the chassis with it there, it can RIP the large screw out of the diff case, or snap the diff case when it get snagged...I designed a fix for this issue and shared the stl files here on the forum with everyone.. you can go that route, or use the factory front skid under the tbone bumper..you will need to fashion some spacers that sit in the tapered shank on the factory plate, so the screws don't tear through the tbone bumper...but 100% get rid of that aluminum angle..

Total failure on tbones part, I offered the fix.. and no reply .. thier loss...
where is that fix? I was just installing the same bumper and facing the same issue - while you can screw it in at the top and then squeeze in the angle plate and then screw the rest in place it looks like the bumper is already pulling on the tower which doesn't look right to me ...

edit found it: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/t-bone-racing-3s-line-redesign-issues.11578/post-198824
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/t-bone-racing-3s-line-redesign-issues.11578/post-198524

STL downloaded, about to print ...
 
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where is that fix? I was just installing the same bumper and facing the same issue - while you can screw it in at the top and then squeeze in the angle plate and then screw the rest in place it looks like the bumper is already pulling on the tower which doesn't look right to me ...

edit found it: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/t-bone-racing-3s-line-redesign-issues.11578/post-198824
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/t-bone-racing-3s-line-redesign-issues.11578/post-198524

STL downloaded, about to print ...


Glad you found it ok.. I always load the stl's to thingiverse... it's easier that way, less files I have to email.. (y)
 
ok printed, installed - same situation ....

this is how it looked with the angle bracket
1579700976142.png


installed

1579701020221.png


1579701147322.png

as you can see its pulling downwards if everything is installed instead of being straight - I think your fix for the the literal T bumper as shown on that thread and doesn't transfer to this bumper - this one definitely seems to be too small for its intended use - works without the bracket though but then there is the risk to lose the hinge pin plate and bits
 
ok printed, installed - same situation ....

this is how it looked with the angle bracket
View attachment 61950

installed

View attachment 61951

View attachment 61952
as you can see its pulling downwards if everything is installed instead of being straight - I think your fix for the the literal T bumper as shown on that thread and doesn't transfer to this bumper - this one definitely seems to be too small for its intended use - works without the bracket though but then there is the risk to lose the hinge pin plate and bits
So do the screw holes for the front bar line up? Do you have the bar section on the wrong holes? Can’t tell from the images you’ve posted if they line up vertically. An overhead shot would help.
 
I gave it a second look and thought there must be a better way to solve it and I came up with this - basically installing it like the original bumper



1579702912077.png


this installs like

1579702969372.png


and looks like
1579702996615.png


1579703019244.png


so away with all the spacers they provide etc add a few washers and the printed plate and oh wonder - everything starts to line up - almost, you will need to do the top first, then push the bumper to get the base screwed down - at least I will give this a go - can always go back to stock ...
 
I have no idea how you'd go about designing something like this and fundamentally screwing it up so bad. T Bone screwed up and their handling of it is sickening.
 
Just add a little an update... I am very new to rc (like I have 5 or 6 batteries through my first non-toy.) It took me a bit to figure it out but here's how it turned out on my Granite... there is a bit of stretching down on the front still, but other than that it went smooth. Oh and the back side had no issues.

IMG_20200521_162958.jpg
IMG_20200521_162909.jpg
 
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