Granite Granite 3s new blown diff

[Slouchybiscuit]

Me and 2 other buddies who all have granite v3's got new batteries yesterday. We each bought the Ace gens 3s 8000mah 100c. Today the first time trying them 2 of us blew our rear diffs and 2 of us blew a tire. Is it possible that the battery is too powerful or is this just a coincidence? Also the 2 diffs blew while we were doing jumps/backflips.

 

[Boomer]

Did you land on power? That would blow the diffs quite quickly.

 

[Slouchybiscuit]

Did you land on power? That would blow the diffs quite quickly.

Honestly i probably did. I am mainly concerned about the battery if it is possible that its too powerful.

 

[Sphexish]

Honestly i probably did. I am mainly concerned about the battery if it is possible that its too powerful.

I've been running the exact same battery in my Typhon V3 -- drivetrain entirely stock -- without any issues so far. Without going up in the actual number of cells, I don't think you can buy a lipo that is genuinely that much more powerful that it is capable of damaging your rig.

 

[Slouchybiscuit]

I've been running the exact same battery in my Typhon V3 -- drivetrain entirely stock -- without any issues so far. Without going up in the actual number of cells, I don't think you can buy a lipo that is genuinely that much more powerful that it is capable of damaging your rig.

Great thats mainly what i wanted to know. I was really bummed out when 2 of us blew our diffs i thought maybe the 100c was too much.

 

[Sphexish]

Great thats mainly what i wanted to know. I was really bummed out when 2 of us blew our diffs i thought maybe the 100c was too much.

There's always a lot of probable causes for any given problem and a lot to take into account. Don't focus too much on the C ratings on batteries though; they seldom tell the whole story and tend to be exaggerated a bit for marketing purposes. Think of them as the i3, i5 & i7 ratings Intel uses for their processors. So long as you don't buy a lipo with a C rating below what is recommended for your rig (or jam a 6S pack in there) you'll be fine!

I think Boomer's suggestion is mainly something you guys should try avoiding the next time you go bashing! Bad landings on power will destroy an RC right quick in my experience as well.

 

[Slouchybiscuit]

There's always a lot of probable causes for any given problem and a lot to take into account. Don't focus too much on the C ratings on batteries though; they seldom tell the whole story and tend to be exaggerated a bit for marketing purposes. Think of them as the i3, i5 & i7 ratings Intel uses for their processors. So long as you don't buy a lipo with a C rating below what is recommended for your rig (or jam a 6S pack in there) you'll be fine!

I think Boomer's suggestion is mainly something you guys should try avoiding the next time you go bashing! Bad landings on power will destroy an RC right quick in my experience as well.

don't get me wrong i definitely agree with what boomer said. Ill try to avoid doing that in the future. Any recommendations on replacement parts ? As in should i go with stock or upgrade the input gear/diff

 

[Sphexish]

don't get me wrong i definitely agree with what boomer said. Ill try to avoid doing that in the future. Any recommendations on replacement parts ? As in should i go with stock or upgrade the input gear/diff

My favorite upgrades thus far were a set of 6S shocks and a more powerful servo. I don't really plan on upgrading the diffs or gears from stock, myself, as I haven't had too many problems and I prefer cheap replacements. But Arrma does sell a composite diff case and metal diff gears, which might be a worthwhile upgrade if you're blowing up diffs left and right.

 

[Freelander]

Except good luck finding them!

The metal crown gears and that I mean.

 

[Bsavage]

Except good luck finding them!

The metal crown gears and that I mean.

If you change the input gear to metal , shouldn't the 37t diff gear be changed to metal as well ???

 

[Freelander]

If you change the input gear to metal , shouldn't the 37t diff gear be changed to metal as well ???

I made this mistake. Annihilated two crown gears. The metal input gear . . .like . . . Bevel side is not as large as the plastic bevel end if that makes any sense. The crown gear was perfectly smooth where the two met and the outside part where the input gear was not touching was in perfect condition.

I ate two rear diffs in like 4 or 5 battery packs before the smack my head moment.
Went back to the plastic ones for now. Waiting for parts availability to go metal crown gear.