Granite Granite 4x4 550 brushed motor

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Bad06zx6r

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 6s
So I bought my son the Granite 4x4 brushed motor model. He bashed it for a while and was begging me to make it quicker. I decided to change the motor and ESC to the fuze 3800 brushless motor and ESC. All went well up until 10 minutes into driving, I noticed the motor was spinning at a much faster rate than the wheels were spinning. I took it apart, and it seems like the slipper clutch may be the culprit. I tightened it down as far as possible, and it still doesn’t really drive like it should. To the point of resistance like driving in grass brings the car to a halt while the motor is still spinning. Any ideas? I bought some new pads for the clutch, but that did nothing. Welcome any ideas or feedback. Thanks guys!
 
You need to upgrade the Rear diff with something stronger like aluminum. Too much power will burn up the stock diff and or other gears.
 
You sure your pinion is still tight on that motor shaft?
Yup, I checked the pinion and it seemed good. Everything seems to function as it should, other than a serious slipping when trying to accelerate.
 
Before I went to the 3s slipper I had a similar issue. I would tighten it all the way tight and it would still slip. It was usable but the slip was very noticeable even with a new pad. The Mega slipper is only really made for brushed power. Some have luck with the Mega slipper and get by with it but I would just take it slipping as a sign to change it out altogether.

You upgraded the power with the Fuze motor and I am assuming it's the 550 brushless one with the Fuze 130a esc also. I wouldn't bother with the Mega slipper with that setup and get the BLX slipper, BLX motor mount and 17t HD inputs at the very least then a 13t or 15t 0.8mod pinion (32p). For not that much more the 13t HD inputs and the 37t BLX diffs with the parts being sourced from a chop shop like Jennys RC. 4s slipper would be better (steel spur) if you could ever find one in stock from a chop shop.

Slipper setup https://jennysrc.com/search?type=product&q=SPUR+GEAR+HD+SLIPPER+CLUTCH
Motor mount (fans a bonus) https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...nk-fan-ara102690?_pos=12&_sid=1991276c5&_ss=r
13t inputs https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...s-senton-ar102666?_pos=1&_sid=fff94238a&_ss=r
BLX diffs https://jennysrc.com/search?type=product&q=DIFFERENTIAL+FRONT/REAR+37T
17t input for use with Mega diffs https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-hd-input-gear-17t-ara310773/p707201

Adjustable motor mount would be better https://www.amazon.com/ARRMA-Aluminum-Adjustable-Motor-Mount/dp/B07GR6VKFY
 
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You need to upgrade the Rear diff with something stronger like aluminum. Too much power will burn up the stock diff and or other gears.
No. Nothing about this post is even close to being the right answer to his problem. The diffs in these will handle 6s.
He doesn't need to upgrade the diffs, maybe just to the HD input gears.
 
No. Nothing about this post is even close to being the right answer to his problem. The diffs in these will handle 6s.
He doesn't need to upgrade the diffs, maybe just to the HD input gears.
48p mega diffs can handle 6s?
 
48p mega diffs can handle 6s?
Yes, the stock input shaft no. Guys were running these things on 6s days after they came out, the input shaft gives out well before the gears do.

The gears in the Megas are made out of the same material as the 3s and 4s models, they are just a different tooth count. The input that goes into the diffs on the Megas are made out of plastic entirely the ones on the 3s and 4s models use a metal shaft with a plastic gear. Arrma does make a HD input for the Megas that uses a metal shaft with a plastic gear like the 3s and 4s models.

I know you didn't post it but there really is a reason that no one runs the Hot Racing diff gears. And the fact that he recommended aluminum gears made me facepalm.
 
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BLX on the left 17t HD in the middle and stock Mega (plastic shaft) on the right

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BLX on the left Mega on the right

Wh60NvN.jpg
 
Yes, the stock input shaft no. Guys were running these things on 6s days after they came out, the input shaft gives out well before the gears do.
Good to know, I always read here from others that they don't hold up for very long on brushless 3s and up. When I went brushless on my mega I got the 32p diffs and inputs from the BLX lines from JRC all at the same time because of that, but also because a pair of assembled diffs with new bearings from JRC was pretty cheap and so I figured why not do the whole thing.

I know you didn't post it but there really is a reason that no one runs the Hot Racing diff gears. And the fact that he recommended aluminum gears made me facepalm.
One guy posted today with his install of them I am super curious on what he thinks later because I've had zero issues with the 32p plastic diffs so I also wonder why anyone would upgrade to them.
20200322_190021.jpg
 
Good to know, I always read here from others that they don't hold up for very long on brushless 3s and up. When I went brushless on my mega I got the 32p diffs and inputs from the BLX lines from JRC all at the same time because of that, but also because a pair of assembled diffs with new bearings from JRC was pretty cheap and so I figured why not do the whole thing.


One guy posted today with his install of them I am super curious on what he thinks later because I've had zero issues with the 32p plastic diffs so I also wonder why anyone would upgrade to them.
View attachment 71103
Not only is it unnecessary but it is expensive too.
$100 for just the gears, then if you want to ditch the composite cases there goes another $40..........
 
If Mega diffs held up to 6s why did Arrma change them when the BLX models came out? I stripped a Mega diff just running 3s.
 
If Mega diffs held up to 6s why did Arrma change them when the BLX models came out? I stripped a Mega diff just running 3s.
Gearing. The diff gears are still made from the same composite they are just a different tooth count 17/49 for the Mega and 13/37 for the BLX.
 
So I bought my son the Granite 4x4 brushed motor model. He bashed it for a while and was begging me to make it quicker. I decided to change the motor and ESC to the fuze 3800 brushless motor and ESC. All went well up until 10 minutes into driving, I noticed the motor was spinning at a much faster rate than the wheels were spinning. I took it apart, and it seems like the slipper clutch may be the culprit. I tightened it down as far as possible, and it still doesn’t really drive like it should. To the point of resistance like driving in grass brings the car to a halt while the motor is still spinning. Any ideas? I bought some new pads for the clutch, but that did nothing. Welcome any ideas or feedback. Thanks guys!
Yeah you would need to run the slipper clutch assembly and diffs and drive pinions from a 3s BLX buggy/truck
 
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