Granite BLX 3S - Stuck Power Module output Shaft - Cannot Remove!

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Banging_Gears

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Hello, I've had this Granite BLX 3S for a few months, I've removed the Power Module once before to clean it, grease gears.

Couple months later, I want to do it again and it's stuck! I can bend each side out, but it looks like the output shaft is stuck to the rear diff input shaft, or something like that as that's the only part that doesn't bend.

I've pushed both sides at the same time to the point I hear it starting to crack, but still the center part will not budge. The sides do move a couple mm, but nothing at the center.

Support is a joke, they say I am doing it wrong, and will only send me a video how to remove it or send it in, which I have to pay for. How about that warranty? What does the warranty cover again?

Replacement motor mounts are not available, so i'm pretty much hosed?

Video of the problem here:

 
What you're doing looks same as what I do, don't see any problems there. I also use screwdrivers on the side to get leverage. Could be that the output/input drives have rusted (not sure if they're steel or aluminum). Have you tried putting some WD40 in there to loosen any corrosion? When mine was stuck, I got some WD40 into every corner I could get at (even the plastics) then just pried it out the way you're doing there. Then if you get it out, put some grease on all the contact points before putting it back together
 
Would not put grease there - lot of dirt getting in there.
Keep wriggling. Use one screwdriver under the clip and another to leverage between body and motor unit. Keep alternating the screwdriver between body and motor unit.
Pretty normal for it to get stuck.
 
They are usually a bit of a PIA to get out. You can try removing the shock tower/top diff case to get rid of the need to unclip the release tab, and for easier access. You might be able to pull the diff out too
 
Mine is starting to crack though. That's a bad design, no doubt. I used to not grease those area's thinking it would help with keeping dirt away, but the grease, with dirt is still better than no grease. Confirmed on my Kraton 6s, Lots of the dive shaft joints are so worn from not having any grease at all, and all squeek really bad now. I put just recently put a little grease in all of them, especially at the wheels and the exposed motor gears,, the thing sounds brand new again and goes faster now! Less friction means less wear, more power to the wheels.
 
Did you ever use blue Loctite to secure the slipper screw? If you did you may have Loctited the slipper assembly to the input shaft (ask me how I know) and you’ll have to just bang on it to separate the two.
 
Is your heatsink wedged against the center part of the chassis? Couldn’t tell clearly from your video.
no, that part is free floating. I even drove it around for a few days with the red block removed, thinking it would loosen up. No go. Guess I'll soak it with PB Blaster... drive it till it falls apart or gears strip out. In the meantime try to order one of the backordered housings.
 
I have to use. Flat head a bit to shimmy it off. It had a lit to do with the grit and rocks and sand thst get under it that wedges it in. When you get it off I bet there is a lot of stuff underneath it. It happens all the time don't get discouraged!
 
I have to use. Flat head a bit to shimmy it off. It had a lit to do with the grit and rocks and sand thst get under it that wedges it in. When you get it off I bet there is a lot of stuff underneath it. It happens all the time don't get discouraged!

As shown in the video, hard to see, that part moves no problem. It's stuck on the output shaft.
 
When I had trouble removing mine, I placed the largest flathead screwdriver I could fit through the wheel parts onto the rear of the gearbox (screwdriver pointing towards to the front of the car). I then gently tapped it with a hammer, switching from side to side to nudge it out evenly. It took some patience, but it eventually worked itself free. There are some very minor scuffs/marking from the screwdriver, but it's cosmetic only. Good luck!
 
I do one side then the next I never use the top piece to pull. Just move one side out a touch and the the other side a bit and so forth . Thsts how I get mine out everytime. I have bent a flathead before. But I do one side just a touch and then the other side until it frees itself. I had the same problem on both my 3s rigs. Then trying to get it back on was just as difficult especially when I put the 2050kv motor in. Other than thst I do not know . I just do one side exactly where you have both your flstheads just one at a time and just a bit to free one side first then the other.
When I had trouble removing mine, I placed the largest flathead screwdriver I could fit through the wheel parts onto the rear of the gearbox (screwdriver pointing towards to the front of the car). I then gently tapped it with a hammer, switching from side to side to nudge it out evenly. It took some patience, but it eventually worked itself free. There are some very minor scuffs/marking from the screwdriver, but it's cosmetic only. Good luck!
About what I did get one side loosened first then do other and it'll almost "wiggle" out
 
I do one side then the next I never use the top piece to pull. Just move one side out a touch and the the other side a bit and so forth . Thsts how I get mine out everytime. I have bent a flathead before. But I do one side just a touch and then the other side until it frees itself. I had the same problem on both my 3s rigs. Then trying to get it back on was just as difficult especially when I put the 2050kv motor in. Other than thst I do not know . I just do one side exactly where you have both your flstheads just one at a time and just a bit to free one side first then the other.

About what I did get one side loosened first then do other and it'll almost "wiggle" out
no
 
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