Granite Granite Brushless Install

[bicketybam]

That is the stock pinion? I order a few of those, they have more surface area to mesh with the spur. I couldn't get my old ones off the brushed motor.

It is. I have an aftermarket 17t that I was running on the SC4/1406-4600 combo on 2s. No issues at all. When I went to 3s on that combo, the spur got chewed up within 15 seconds. When I replaced the spur I went back to the original pinion for 2 reasons:1) I wanted to gear for less top end because of that 4600Kv motor and 2) I wasn't thrilled with the way I couldn't cover the whole spur. While that seemed ok on 2s, I didn't want to chance it again on 3s.

I have yet to run my Mamba X/1410-3800Kv combo. I am waiting for UPS to deliver my order from Tower that has my wheel axle that busted. I have the motor and ESC in the truck and I am charging a 2s LiPo. When that's done I'm going to calibrate my controller to the new Mamba and then use the Castlelink to set the punch control to 25%. No one has spurs around me and I am going to play it safe until I have a spare. I will let you know how it goes since I will be running the exact same combo as you, with the exception on the pinion.

 

[GuyFromCanada]

I have a 17T pinion I've been considering, but it is a Robinson Racing one that doesn't cover the entire spur...we'll see if that makes a difference. I ordered the last 2 spurs I could find pretty much anywhere, so we'll see how that goes.

 

[bicketybam]

I have a 17T pinion I've been considering, but it is a Robinson Racing one that doesn't cover the entire spur...we'll see if that makes a difference. I ordered the last 2 spurs I could find pretty much anywhere, so we'll see how that goes.

If you want to go 17t, I'd get the Arrma 17t pinion: https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310383

 

[GuyFromCanada]

Well, I found out something interesting: Robinson Racing pinions are "short" and "long" with the same RRP1014 part number. Packaging is slightly different, so not sure if they goofed, or changed it, or whatever...the short one is the old one I just pulled out, the long one is the new one I just received and put in. In any case, the new one contacts the spur 100%



This is my resulting mesh...the spur can rock back and forth a very small amount. This is also a new motor mount and new FE bearings.



Also, I loosened the slipper a bunch, and now I can hear it slipping...I've never heard that before so I'm pretty confident in saying the slipper was virtually locked previously.

***Edit***
Oh, and my motor sounded and felt a bit rough to turn...that didn't seem right, so I opened the end where the shaft comes out, and it was filled with what looks like spur grindings! That doesn't seem right...it still runs, but how should I proceed? Clean it out? Contact CC?

Found this for disassembly..maybe I need to clean it out each time the spur takes a dump, and lube?

https://dzf8vqv24eqhg.cloudfront.ne...intaining Castle Motors in Wet Conditions.pdf

 

[bicketybam]

That mesh looks a lot better. Does the set screw on the long go in further or does it still stick out?

 

[GuyFromCanada]

The screw sticks out a little, but it doesn't matter much since the teeth cover and center nicely on the entire spur and mesh fully.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

***Edit***
Oh, and my motor sounded and felt a bit rough to turn...that didn't seem right, so I opened the end where the shaft comes out, and it was filled with what looks like spur grindings! That doesn't seem right...it still runs, but how should I proceed? Clean it out? Contact CC?

Found this for disassembly..maybe I need to clean it out each time the spur takes a dump, and lube?

https://dzf8vqv24eqhg.cloudfront.net/userfiles/4671/6540/ckfinder/files/Product Manuals/Surface/Running and Maintaining Castle Motors in Wet Conditions.pdf

Should not be a big deal to pull the rotor, blast everything with WD40 or similar, re-lube the bearings with proper bearing oil (fishing reel bearing oil works great) button it up and run it.

 

[GuyFromCanada]

Should not be a big deal to pull the rotor, blast everything with WD40 or similar, re-lube the bearings with proper bearing oil (fishing reel bearing oil works great) button it up and run it.

When I do my next tear down, I'll try cleaning up the motor out...actually, I'll do that after I get my second brushless motor for my other truck.

I didn't open up the motor mount to see the condition of the spur and pinion while still functional. That should give me a clue regarding the state of the mesh, right? With how I was driving tonight, I figure a loose mesh probably would have stripped, and a tight mesh might show some wear on the spur or pinion?

After getting my B-Link connection working, I set the punch control to 25% and drag brake to 50%. The drag brake was far too much, and setting it to 10% seemed pretty reasonable and minimized my need to slam on the brakes. I haven't found a good punch control setting yet, so I'll continue tuning that tomorrow.

 

[GuyFromCanada]

This is my pinion and spur after some bashing last night, only about 10-15 minutes worth since I was running from a storage charge.



Some of the sharpness from the edge of the spur and pinion seems to be lost, but otherwise seems fine. I did notice that some sand is getting stuck inside the valley of the spur. Being a fine pitch, that seems to create nooks that sand will find its way into. Too much sand or a single larger pebble could definitely cause the mesh to bind or get forced apart causing all kinds of damage. I'm leaning toward what someone mentioned about cutting out an opening underneath the spur. It is clear where the opening should be, since there are fine scratches in the direction of pinion rotation right inside that little grove the spur sits in.

 

[bicketybam]

You're back to a 14t spur?

I think the gears look good. I run my truck is an area with a lot of dirt and pebbles. I haven't had an issue yet.

 

[GuyFromCanada]

Yeah, I'm on a Granite so "stock" is 14T. Senton is 17T stock. It runs well, scoots across the soccer field or ball diamond fast enough, and temps are pretty good. I'm not going to push my luck!

Once my second Granite for my son is up on brushless, I'll feel more free to experiment...his will be dialed back significantly on punch and max throttle

 

[bicketybam]

Yeah, I'm on a Granite so "stock" is 14T. Senton is 17T stock. It runs well, scoots across the soccer field or ball diamond fast enough, and temps are pretty good. I'm not going to push my luck!

Once my second Granite for my son is up on brushless, I'll feel more free to experiment...his will be dialed back significantly on punch and max throttle

Do you own a Senton too? Now I'm confused!

 

[GuyFromCanada]

Nope, I'm double Granite. Sorry if I added some confusion somewhere!

 

[bicketybam]

I didn't realize you had two Granites. Are both converted to brushless? Are they both eating spurs?

 

[GuyFromCanada]

I didn't realize you had two Granites. Are both converted to brushless? Are they both eating spurs?

The other is still brushed...I'm waiting for another 1410-3800kV motor. On the brushed setup, it did chew a spur and pinion, but those were somehow bad after I changed the dead motor. I also swapped motor mounts at one point since I was too lazy to swap the motor itself. Having two of the same trucks for myself and my 7 year old has made spare part stocking much easier

 

[larrys4227]

There are different flavors of RR pinions, thus different shapes. All I buy is the Hardened ones. Cut that hole in the bottom of the chassis under the spur. I'm still on my original spur gear and I've run 17t, 22t, 25t, and 27t pinions. All RR Hardened except the 17t .... which is stock. I've settled on the 22t on 2 and 3s with a 3900kv motor

 

[GuyFromCanada]

There are different flavors of RR pinions, thus different shapes. All I buy is the Hardened ones. Cut that hole in the bottom of the chassis under the spur. I'm still on my original spur gear and I've run 17t, 22t, 25t, and 27t pinions. All RR Hardened except the 17t .... which is stock. I've settled on the 22t on 2 and 3s with a 3900kv motor

In my case, these are all RRP1014 pinions, so I would have expected them to be the same all around. Are you using the HEAT TREATED "ABSOLUTE" STEEL PINION from here?

http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/one_eight_inch_bore_pinions.html#absolute48

I did cut a hole under the spur...I'm wondering if I should have made it a bit wider though. I opened it up on the same area where the motor mount is cut out under the spur.

 

[larrys4227]

Yes, I'm using the Super Hard Absolute Pinions. I get them from Amain .... RRP1422 is the one I settled on for my Senton Mega. The 1014 is nickel coated steel.

 

[GuyFromCanada]

Yes, I'm using the Super Hard Absolute Pinions. I get them from Amain .... RRP1422 is the one I settled on for my Senton Mega. The 1014 is nickel coated steel.

Thanks, I'll give them a try when my LHS gets them in next...probably just the 17T though.

 

[olds97_lss]

I run the castle sct sv3/3800kv setup in my stampede 4x4, which is similar in size to the granite. But the driveline is seriously heavier. Steel diff ring/pinion/internals as well as MIP X-Duty CVD's. I have it geared to run about 40mph on 2S and it seems to do ok with temps. Runs a little warm, but I've been beating the snot out of it for a year. I use SMC 7200/7400mah packs and get 25-30 minute run times at the skate park with it. I go easy on the throttle though when in grass. Around here, they tend to leave the grass a bit long for that low of a truck. It's good for landing on though as I jump out of the park and onto the grass a lot.