Big Rock Granite conversion to Big Rock

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. BigRock 4x4
  3. Granite
  4. Typhon 3s
This is my V2 Granite Mega that I completely converted to Brushless. Before doing this chassis swap, it was a wheelie machine.

Here is the list of past and current parts I’ve bought and installed.

-Jim’s rubber sealed bearings (current)
-25kg Servo(current)
-Front and Rear inputs(17 and 13 tooth)
-Cheap 40 amp bl esc(died)
-Surpass 60 amp esc(caught on fire)
-Surpass 120 amp esc(current)
-Generic 3900kv bl motor(3 mm shaft)
-Surpass 3500kv bl motor(3 mm shaft)
-Surpass 2900kv (current with a 5 mm shaft)
-BLX upgraded diffs along with 13 tooth inputs
-3s BLX Slipper, clutch and spur and 15 tooth pinion
-ZD Racing Aluminum shocks
-Hot Racing metal spur gear
-Typhon 3s front and rear A-arms
-Proline threaded body posts.
-Typhon rear wing(broken)
-3d Printed Tpu 4s rear wing
-Big Rock lwb chassis
-Big Rock longer driveshaft
-V3 Granite front and rear bumpers

My first run in the snow, my 60 amp esc caught on fire running on 3s. Thankfully nothing else was damaged when that happened.

I currently have 3 2s lipos and one 3s. On 3s it wheelied all the time. I haven’t been able to record the top speed but it’s probably close to 50mph on 3s. It’s a different machine on it.

Future Possible Upgrades
-New longer body(Big Rock/Senton/Tyohon
-17mm hexes and wheels/tires(already purchased)
-Wheelie bar(already purchased)
-Big Rock side guards as the Granite ones don’t quite cover the battery completely. I was able to trim and zip tie it on temporarily


I still haven’t decided which body I want to go with. The Big Rock would be the easiest as the body mounts are the same. A Senton body would require the mounts, body, bumpers and some body cutting to fit over the 2.8 tires. Or a set of 2.2 sc tires. A Typhon is my second choice but would require a new body, mounts and I’m not quite sure it would fit as my esc is mounted on top of my receiver box. I had thought it would fit on the bottom next to the motor but there’s not enough room.

The aftermarket body I have is made for a Traxxas from eBay. It’s a common swap for granites. This body actually fits better on the lwb chassis than the Granite body. But they both fit using the stock body mounts. I think I turned the front mount backwards to where it allows the front of the body to seat properly behind the bumper.

Unless you really want to spend more money on an RC car, it isn’t wise to go this same route. Thankfully with the V3 models, you already have the upgraded diffs and slipper. So that would save you around $80. The surpass motors I bought were around $30 each and all have been very good. I can definitely recommend the 120 amp esc and 2900 kv motor for it. It has plenty of top speed and low end torque. A 3900 runs too hot in this truck from my experience.

I’m still undecided if I’m going to keep the rear wing installed. But until I receive my wheelie bar, it will remain on. The wing does protect the body more than if it didn’t have one. I’m not sure how well the tpu wing is going to hold up over time. But it’s pretty easy to print out a new one.

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I'm 80% sure the granite body will fit it also.might as well buy a 100$ granite.any body will cost 35-40$ spend the extra 60$ an have another truck that you could convert to brushless???
I'm 80% sure the granite body will fit it also.might as well buy a 100$ granite.any body will cost 35-40$ spend the extra 60$ an have another truck that you could convert to brushless???
I mean voltage
 
I'm 80% sure the granite body will fit it also.might as well buy a 100$ granite.any body will cost 35-40$ spend the extra 60$ an have another truck that you could convert to brushless???

I mean voltage
If my son didn’t already have one, I’d buy a Voltage. I bought him a redcat blackout and converted it to brushless. Looking back I should have just gone for something from arrma instead. Would’ve made swapping parts so much easier. That redcat is not fun to work on. I don’t want to buy another rc though. Too much money has been spent on this one.
 
I just recently bought a granite and have thrown the idea of converting to big rock for some less wheelies. But at the same time I love the granite for what it is. But just out of curiosity the only things needed aside from the chassis of course would be the center drive shaft right? I am very new to 3s so I haven't learned everything about it yet.
 
I just recently bought a granite and have thrown the idea of converting to big rock for some less wheelies. But at the same time I love the granite for what it is. But just out of curiosity the only things needed aside from the chassis of course would be the center drive shaft right? I am very new to 3s so I haven't learned everything about it yet.
Correct. You can also buy the longer side guards as the Granite ones won’t fit without some trimming and maybe some zip ties. I’d also buy the wider Typhon a arms to widen the stance.
 
Correct. You can also buy the longer side guards as the Granite ones won’t fit without some trimming and maybe some zip ties. I’d also buy the wider Typhon a arms to widen the stance.
I read that you need to get the typhon turnbuckles also. Is that true?
 
Just installed some Aluminum 12mm to 17mm hexes to get ready for my new tires and wheels that will be here hopefully in a few days. This extends each side out about 1/2”. I bought them on AliExpress and they took about 35 days to get here. I bought the tires the same day so hopefully they’ll be here soon. They seem to fit very well. Of course I can’t compare them to the HR hexes. I already had a set of 12mm hexes that I had bought a few months ago and have been swapping out the dboots for some duratrax 12mm tires. They were quite a bit smaller so I never really like them. I tried out my son’s Redcat Blackout tires on it as well as those are 12mm.

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I finally got the ZD Racing tires for my Granite/Big Rock. I’m not sure what to call it as it’s pretty much a Big Rock with Typhon arms. And a bunch of other miscellaneous parts. At this point it’s pretty much a mish mash of arrma and ZD Racing parts. It’s unrecognizable as a Granite anymore.

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Printing out some Hex covers as well as two rear shock covers. I know the front is smaller but I’m going to try and trim the other cover to fit the front and drill new holes. I just couldn’t find a file for the front covers. I’m going to see how well pla stands up to the abuse before I struggle my way through trying to print them with PETG.

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I should also say that I’m buying the parts to be able to switch it to a Typhon when I want. So I have a body and the body posts/mounts coming in the mail. I found a guy on Facebook parting out a Typhon and I got the body and mounts for $20 shipped.
 
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Here it is with the gently used Typhon body I bought off of a guy in the arrma buy sell trade facebook group. I finally painted my 3d printed tpu wing. Although it looks a little small on this compared to how it looked with my Granite body. I have my ZD Racing shocks with outcast springs and my ZD racing buggy tires. I’m going to leave the granite bumpers on it as it will provide some protection for the front end. Plus it’s an easy swap back to the ZD Racing body I have for it. Although it looks a little weird with the MT body and buggy tires.
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I finished up the stripping and repainting the body. I also removed a few of the stickers. I sprayed it with rattle can flat black. It took forever for it to fully dry. I then covered the inside of the body with Gorilla tape to further protect the paint and body. I realize that I didn’t use the right kind of paint. Surprisingly, it doesn’t look very black. It looks more dark blue. All I need to do is reprint a new pair of shock tower covers in black to replace the green tpu ones.
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This is my V2 Granite Mega that I completely converted to Brushless. Before doing this chassis swap, it was a wheelie machine.

Here is the list of past and current parts I’ve bought and installed.

-Jim’s rubber sealed bearings (current)
-25kg Servo(current)
-Front and Rear inputs(17 and 13 tooth)
-Cheap 40 amp bl esc(died)
-Surpass 60 amp esc(caught on fire)
-Surpass 120 amp esc(current)
-Generic 3900kv bl motor(3 mm shaft)
-Surpass 3500kv bl motor(3 mm shaft)
-Surpass 2900kv (current with a 5 mm shaft)
-BLX upgraded diffs along with 13 tooth inputs
-3s BLX Slipper, clutch and spur and 15 tooth pinion
-ZD Racing Aluminum shocks
-Hot Racing metal spur gear
-Typhon 3s front and rear A-arms
-Proline threaded body posts.
-Typhon rear wing(broken)
-3d Printed Tpu 4s rear wing
-Big Rock lwb chassis
-Big Rock longer driveshaft
-V3 Granite front and rear bumpers

My first run in the snow, my 60 amp esc caught on fire running on 3s. Thankfully nothing else was damaged when that happened.

I currently have 3 2s lipos and one 3s. On 3s it wheelied all the time. I haven’t been able to record the top speed but it’s probably close to 50mph on 3s. It’s a different machine on it.

Future Possible Upgrades
-New longer body(Big Rock/Senton/Tyohon
-17mm hexes and wheels/tires(already purchased)
-Wheelie bar(already purchased)
-Big Rock side guards as the Granite ones don’t quite cover the battery completely. I was able to trim and zip tie it on temporarily


I still haven’t decided which body I want to go with. The Big Rock would be the easiest as the body mounts are the same. A Senton body would require the mounts, body, bumpers and some body cutting to fit over the 2.8 tires. Or a set of 2.2 sc tires. A Typhon is my second choice but would require a new body, mounts and I’m not quite sure it would fit as my esc is mounted on top of my receiver box. I had thought it would fit on the bottom next to the motor but there’s not enough room.

The aftermarket body I have is made for a Traxxas from eBay. It’s a common swap for granites. This body actually fits better on the lwb chassis than the Granite body. But they both fit using the stock body mounts. I think I turned the front mount backwards to where it allows the front of the body to seat properly behind the bumper.

Unless you really want to spend more money on an RC car, it isn’t wise to go this same route. Thankfully with the V3 models, you already have the upgraded diffs and slipper. So that would save you around $80. The surpass motors I bought were around $30 each and all have been very good. I can definitely recommend the 120 amp esc and 2900 kv motor for it. It has plenty of top speed and low end torque. A 3900 runs too hot in this truck from my experience.

I’m still undecided if I’m going to keep the rear wing installed. But until I receive my wheelie bar, it will remain on. The wing does protect the body more than if it didn’t have one. I’m not sure how well the tpu wing is going to hold up over time. But it’s pretty easy to print out a new one.

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I just put a metal spur gear in my granite and the new noise is crazy. Did your change when you swapped? I’m assuming it’s fine but i don’t know what it’s supposed to sound like
 
I just put a metal spur gear in my granite and the new noise is crazy. Did your change when you swapped? I’m assuming it’s fine but i don’t know what it’s supposed to sound like
Yeah. It’s a little more noisy. But not too bad. Make sure your mesh is right too.
 
Yeah I triple checked so I know that’s good. Just gonna have to get used to it. I imagine it’s easier to hear if something breaks hahah
 
I just put a metal spur gear in my granite and the new noise is crazy. Did your change when you swapped? I’m assuming it’s fine but i don’t know what it’s supposed to sound like
Do you know what the advantage to the metal spur gear is over the plastic other than what I'm assuming is the obvious stronger teeth? I've heard that metal spur gears aren't exactly the best so I'm just curious what the gripe is...
 
Do you know what the advantage to the metal spur gear is over the plastic other than what I'm assuming is the obvious stronger teeth? I've heard that metal spur gears aren't exactly the best so I'm just curious what the gripe is...
I don’t want to keep stripping my spur gears. Of course I’ve heard that when you replace something plastic with metal, it just means that something else that is plastic is more likely to break. Like it’s not a good idea to have aluminum arms because the plastic will absorb some of the shock of hard landings. Plastic flexes whereas metal or aluminum doesn’t. I actually tried an aluminum pinion gear with my steel spur. You can probably guess which one failed. I can’t think of any specific disadvantages to switching to a steel spur because the 4s vehicles had one. A spur is cheap to replace but it’s annoying to change out. My diffs are all holding up very well. My diffs are obviously composite plastic.
 
I don’t want to keep stripping my spur gears. Of course I’ve heard that when you replace something plastic with metal, it just means that something else that is plastic is more likely to break. Like it’s not a good idea to have aluminum arms because the plastic will absorb some of the shock of hard landings. Plastic flexes whereas metal or aluminum doesn’t. I actually tried an aluminum pinion gear with my steel spur. You can probably guess which one failed. I can’t think of any specific disadvantages to switching to a steel spur because the 4s vehicles had one. A spur is cheap to replace but it’s annoying to change out. My diffs are all holding up very well. My diffs are obviously composite plastic.
Ok cool. Should you grease them also? I cant imagine metal to metal wouldn't be greased. I've heard of a grease that dries and basically coats the metal like a wax so is that something that should be done?
 
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