Granite cvd?!

[LunchBox]

This is the setup that I have been running for awhile. It's a bunch of different parts but it has been working way better than the stock setup. It does change some of the suspension geometry but I can't notice any difference. I would have to dig up my notes to know exactly what is from what.

That looks like good job....... I gotta re build my diff so looking for a new one that will hold up with my bashing..... I'm still pretty new tho I'm learning fast and this would be my second diff re build..... It's a lot to ask for but a parts list woul help this noob out.... Lol

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

I'm still using the Arrma diff, after 2 runs my diff is clicking again and I think the HPI Blitz Diff may be a better option.

 

[csholcomb11]

Are you running the upgraded BLX gears/gearbox? I did the upgrade and it's holding up great on brushless/2S Lipo. Here is the thread with the parts list: https://arrmaforum.com/threads/upgrade-mega-bls-plastic-transmission-to-blx-metal.596/#post-5949

I also just picked up HPI 6x83mm dogbones since the stock pins kept sliding out to one side and chewing a groove in my arms. Not sure if I got the suggestion from here or another forum. Going to try them out tonight.

 

[Pro4XBlizzard]

Will the X0-1 shafts work? I know they will work on a Stampede and Slash, soooo since the Traxxas 3636 hubs also work.......Im very interested in this

 

[Pro4XBlizzard]

After some research it appears the XO-1 hubs may need to be used also

 

[ElectroNoob]

What about the CVD's for the HPI bullet?? My friend has one of these and they may work. I am going to see if I can pull one of his out and try it out to see if it will work. The dogbones look almost identical. Just a thought. Im currently converting a mega to brushless and am looking to do this upgrade soon.

 

[Darren Wes]

Update....

Been using team associated b4 bearing carriers from rpm and stock b4 cva/cvd (whatever the technical/legal name is) and the locking wheel hex for the b4 as well

used heat shrink around the cva to the bearing carrier and filled it with black oil before sercuring it to the bone

also heat shrink around the diff outdrive cup and o ring inside of course

Lastly I pulled the axle away from the bearing carrier to make the dogbone(now cva) now fit without hitting the inside of the diff cup when the a arm is fully extended upwards (landing position) by using the locking hex to keep it in place....used about 10 packs with with no damage to the outdrive and not 1 popped driveline....except one time some jerk walked right in front of the ramp I was playing with and I had to bail so I wouldn't hit is blind ass
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Are you running the upgraded BLX gears/gearbox? I did the upgrade and it's holding up great on brushless/2S LiPo. Here is the thread with the parts list: https://arrmaforum.com/threads/upgrade-mega-bls-plastic-transmission-to-blx-metal.596/#post-5949

I also just picked up HPI 6x83mm dogbones since the stock pins kept sliding out to one side and chewing a groove in my arms. Not sure if I got the suggestion from here or another forum. Going to try them out tonight.

Blxer found that one About a year ago....they do work for a little while... Especially if you're diff outdrives are a little worn....eventually you'll want to find a different route about 2 r 3 months ago on here someone said b4 stuff works...asked my buddy with over 100+rc cars if he thought they would work....said yeah... Decided to go that route.... Haven't had a driveline issue since

 

[goldenarms]

Hi

Try adding 2 O-rings in the axles and one in the diff out drive to help keep the dog bones in place. That's what I am doing at the moment.

Sorry to necro this thread, but I am wondering what size O-rings you used? I'd like to do this until I can get the proper mods done

 

[ajdragon]

Hi

The smaller one in this link.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBKZR&P=7

 

[goldenarms]

Thanks. The amount of play in these dogbones is ridiculous