Granite Granite diffs stripped after CVD driveshaft install

[parcou]

I don't have any slipper issues on the Big Rock or Granite and posted this before see sooooo many posts on the way it should be done. I'm just afraid of it for now.... Need to learn tho....

 

[IwatchTV]

As I said before, you should loosen the slipper. That method results in a fully tightened slipper. I loosen 1-1/2 turns from fully tight. I think one full turn is minimum to reduce popped driveshafts, some go as loose as 2 full turns.

Thank you.

Have given this a whirl with regular driveshafts on and now popped ones so far.

 

[GraniteFox]

I don’t go by the how many half turns back on the slipper. Instant wheelie from the trigger……slipper too tight. Wheelie after take off at full go…..set correctly.

 

[GRC]

Thank you.

Have given this a whirl with regular driveshafts on and now popped ones so far.

You can still pop driveshafts with a loosened slipper, but it makes it less likely. I still pop driveshafts occasionally even with a loosened slipper, over time driveshafts loosen and pop. But a fully tightened slipper will pop driveshafts quickly, even when they're new. As I said before, the way you drive also makes a big difference. If you're still popping driveshafts use the CVD driveshafts. I would still keep the slipper loosened to reduce the strain on the differentials.

 

[GraniteFox]

Agree
Or just buy a Noto or Kraton…….problem solved.

 

[GRC]

Agree
Or just buy a Noto or Kraton…….problem solved.

From what I can tell, 6s is more money, more problems. I've seen countless videos of bent dogbones, shock towers, and chassis, popped front hubs, cracked gearboxes. I don't have a 6s vehicle, but many on this thread seem to agree: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...x-granite-v3-blx-or-k6s-v5.41788/#post-576185

 

[GraniteFox]

I have had a great time with my Noto….no issues at all. If you send things 50ft in the air they tend to break. Its just a different driving experience, honestly I like both the 3s and the 6s platforms. Lately more Noto than Granite or Typhon.

 

[Jhunt86]

You can still pop driveshafts with a loosened slipper, but it makes it less likely. I still pop driveshafts occasionally even with a loosened slipper, over time driveshafts loosen and pop. But a fully tightened slipper will pop driveshafts quickly, even when they're new. As I said before, the way you drive also makes a big difference. If you're still popping driveshafts use the CVD driveshafts. I would still keep the slipper loosened to reduce the strain on the differentials.

Does anybody know where the cvd driveshafts are in stock?

 

[IwatchTV]

Does anybody know where the cvd driveshafts are in stock?

Don't know where your based, but if in UK, Appliance Electronics had them in stock

 

[freelosophy]

lol, I just read this whole thread . . . I'll just say my hot racing yoke set are in the mail for my granite's rear diff. Yeah, am hard on the throttle. and everything else is already pretty much metal lol

 

[Surchaufeur]

Just

Here's the steel ring and pinion

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

You can use the HR steel ring and pinion with this Arrma composite diff case. This is exactly what I use on my 4s Big Rock.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-AR31...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

get the hot racing diff yokes. I see no reason to buy the hot racing steel diffs for 100$

lol, I just read this whole thread . . . I'll just say my hot racing yoke set are in the mail for my granite's rear diff. Yeah, am hard on the throttle. and everything else is already pretty much metal lol

Thats pretty much the fix my guy

 

[Kla912000]

Just

get the hot racing diff yokes. I see no reason to buy the hot racing steel diffs for 100$

Thats pretty much the fix my guy

I only put the HR steel diff on the rear of my Big Rock along with the GPM steel CVDs cause I run my Big Rock on 4s and needed the steel upgrades at least on the rear. Other people may be different.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

I’m always late to these threads but sometimes if I feel I have something to say I’ll leave a comment just for people looking for info in the future.

Yes, if you’re light on the throttle and set the slipper correct I’m sure it’s possible to make the car work for a long time, having spoken to multiple senton/big rock/granite owners it seems like some people don’t have to do anything and their car works great for ages. It’s a bit of a lottery whether you get a good or bad car out of the box, which is infuriating because for many, like myself, this is their first car and it ends up being a baptism of fire.

For me as soon as I started upgrading to 3s it went south, my car didn’t survive a single bash for 6 months without something serious breaking. Went through 4 driveshafts, 3 diffs, 1 diff housing, 3 slipper outer metal plates and some slipper plates when it came loose on a bash (use lock tight when setting the slipper. I took the time to learn how to set the slipper correctly but it cost so much to get there and it still wasn’t what I wanted. I wanted a car like my Traxxas Maxx, a car that will take almost anything I put it through.

It cost me so much that in the end it was cheaper to upgrade everything to metal, it does affect performance a little, but makes the car bulletproof too. I got lucky and found suppliers for everything, had to shop globally though as these parts seem to sell out fast and take an age to restock. Yes it costs a lot but it’s saving me money in the long run.

I’ll list everything you need below:

Diff case
Diff crown gear
Diff input gear
Metal spur gear
Centre shaft support
Driveshafts (gpm and hot racing make alternatives)
13t pinion (this is optional, it will give slightly better torque and acceleration as I feel acceleration has decreased a little and don’t want to mess with punch settings too much)
Diff yolk (not got these yet but it’ll be my next upgrade)

Nothing is cheap, I think I spent about £220 getting everything, but spent more than that on parts before this. Now I can do what I like to the car, it’s amazing, takes an absolute beating, it’s often the only car left standing and may even be more durable than my Maxx.

 

[Kla912000]

I’m always late to these threads but sometimes if I feel I have something to say I’ll leave a comment just for people looking for info in the future.

Yes, if you’re light on the throttle and set the slipper correct I’m sure it’s possible to make the car work for a long time, having spoken to multiple senton/big rock/granite owners it seems like some people don’t have to do anything and their car works great for ages. It’s a bit of a lottery whether you get a good or bad car out of the box, which is infuriating because for many, like myself, this is their first car and it ends up being a baptism of fire.

For me as soon as I started upgrading to 3s it went south, my car didn’t survive a single bash for 6 months without something serious breaking. Went through 4 driveshafts, 3 diffs, 1 diff housing, 3 slipper outer metal plates and some slipper plates when it came loose on a bash (use lock tight when setting the slipper. I took the time to learn how to set the slipper correctly but it cost so much to get there and it still wasn’t what I wanted. I wanted a car like my Traxxas Maxx, a car that will take almost anything I put it through.

It cost me so much that in the end it was cheaper to upgrade everything to metal, it does affect performance a little, but makes the car bulletproof too. I got lucky and found suppliers for everything, had to shop globally though as these parts seem to sell out fast and take an age to restock. Yes it costs a lot but it’s saving me money in the long run.

I’ll list everything you need below:

Diff case
Diff crown gear
Diff input gear
Metal spur gear
Centre shaft support
Driveshafts (gpm and hot racing make alternatives)
13t pinion (this is optional, it will give slightly better torque and acceleration as I feel acceleration has decreased a little and don’t want to mess with punch settings too much)
Diff yolk (not got these yet but it’ll be my next upgrade)

Nothing is cheap, I think I spent about £220 getting everything, but spent more than that on parts before this. Now I can do what I like to the car, it’s amazing, takes an absolute beating, it’s often the only car left standing and may even be more durable than my Maxx.

I think this is a great post.

I did almost the same upgrades to my Big Rock except for the steel spur gear. I feel that I need at least 1 weak spot so I don't break other parts and a spur gear is relatively cheap.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

I think this is a great post.

I did almost the same upgrades to my Big Rock except for the steel spur gear. I feel that I need at least 1 weak spot so I don't break other parts and a spur gear is relatively cheap.

That’s probably a good shout, by that point I’d lost patience and just wanted metal everything but I can always change back. How long have you run it like that? Just wandering how the plastic ones hold up over time. The one thing I never broke was the the actual spur gear, always broke the pads and retaining plates.

The spurs are cheap but Traxxas definitely beat Arrma on stock parts cost, £3.50 vs £6 for Maxx spur vs Granite spur. Not a world of difference here but it adds up over the course of a year with all the different parts

 

[Kla912000]

That’s probably a good shout, by that point I’d lost patience and just wanted metal everything but I can always change back. How long have you run it like that? Just wandering how the plastic ones hold up over time. The one thing I never broke was the the actual spur gear, always broke the pads and retaining plates.

The spurs are cheap but Traxxas definitely beat Arrma on stock parts cost, £3.50 vs £6 for Maxx spur vs Granite spur. Not a world of difference here but it adds up over the course of a year with all the different parts

I run my Big Rock on 4s and still have the original stock spur gear that the rig came with. Have had this truck since December so about 8-9 months now on the original spur gear but about 3 months on 4s. As long as you can keep your gear mesh set correctly there really isn't a problem.

 

[triplebeastalpha]

That’s good to know, I might change back. Like you say, it’s good to have a weaker link that’s cheap to replace rather than breaking the expensive bits. It’s probably durable enough to do that job well.

 

[Kla912000]

That’s good to know, I might change back. Like you say, it’s good to have a weaker link that’s cheap to replace rather than breaking the expensive bits. It’s probably durable enough to do that job well.

Some people might argue with my logic but it works for me. As long as I can keep my gear mesh good, like not bending the motor mount or pinion gear coming loose, then there isn't a problem with the stock spur gear. As I said earlier, I've been running 4s with the stock spur gear for almost 3 months and haven't stripped it yet. And like you just said, I'd rather replace a $10 spur gear than a $50 rear diff.