Granite Granite Voltage Brushless Build

[GRspeed]

Well, we couldn’t leave well enough alone and decided to put a brushless system in one of our Granite Voltage cars.

Mods prior:

• Arrma ADS-7, waterproof, metal gear servo
• T-Bone Racing front bumper
• Duratrax Lockup MT, C2 compound, 1/2" offset (though the track isn't any wider than the stock copperheads as these tires are smaller overall)
• Battery tray elimination with Li-Ion board removal
• Foam block battery cradle

Mods Today:

• GoolRC WP ESC 80A
• Tactic TR326 receiver (and a TTX300 transmitter to match)
• Castle 1406-4600kv motor (used, pulled from another car)
• Acrylic plate with 3/8" spacers to mount receiver, ESC and power switch
• Battery tray removal and foam battery compartment blocks
• Chassis trim at motor end to accommodate motor wires

Not sure of the speed. What's the best way to measure it? Feels like it doubled top speed over stock. We're on 2S and the stock 16t pinion still, it'd set sail with the 19t.

Needs new bearings already and we just got it in January. RlAnd I didn't strip a differential outdrive!

 

[rcjmrl46]

There is potential... we shall never surrender !

 

[GRspeed]

Freedom, William Wallace!

 

[DoNoHarm]

Replace that castle’s bearings as well, you don’t know if they’re gonna blow or not.

 

[GRspeed]

Replace that castle’s bearings as well, you don’t know if they’re gonna blow or not.

Funny enough that you say that. We had it in our Granite 4x4 Mega that was converted to brushless (sloppily as hell, btw) before we purchased it. So, my son inadvertently drove it into a spillway with standing water.

Not only did it stink like ass, but the car floated (maybe the tires aren't vented much?) and water spalshed all over the place. It seized up a bearing in the front diff and, you guessed it, the Castle motor.

I changed the bearing near the output shaft of the Castle but could not get the bearing out of the end bell of the motor. It would need a little puller tool which... I may have but didn't think of at the time because it was clean, dry and smooth running.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Funny enough that you say that. We had it in our Granite 4x4 Mega that was converted to brushless (sloppily as hell, btw) before we purchased it. So, my son inadvertently drove it into a spillway with standing water.

Not only did it stink like ass, but the car floated (maybe the tires aren't vented much?) and water spalshed all over the place. It seized up a bearing in the front diff and, you guessed it, the Castle motor.

I changed the bearing near the output shaft of the Castle but could not get the bearing out of the end bell of the motor. It would need a little puller tool which... I may have but didn't think of at the time because it was clean, dry and smooth running.

Mmm I don’t know man. God forbid that bearing seizes and disintegrates, the motor will be junk because you won’t be able to get the outer housing out of where it welded itself to.

 

[GRspeed]

Well, for now, it's it clean, clear and smooth shape. I applied a bit more grease around it for good measure. Meanwhile, generic replacement motors seem to be $20 and, from what I read, they are pretty reliable and efficient.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Alright for future reference NEVER GREASE BEARINGS!

It creates added pressure and forces it to turn slower creating “friction” and makes the bearing hotter. If you really care, use bearing specific thin oil, grease just does harm. Especially on a high rpm bearing like that.

 

[GRspeed]

Is that right? Where do you find this information as to what would be the correct product to apply? This was a light ball bearing and caged bearing grease for bicycles that I had a lying around. I applied but a thin film, thankfully, and didn't "pack" it.

Do you recommend a product?

 

[DoNoHarm]

Is that right? Where do you find this information as to what would be the correct product to apply? This was a light ball bearing and caged bearing grease for bicycles that I had a lying around. I applied but a thin film, thankfully, and didn't "pack" it.

Do you recommend a product?

Information was found over my many years (mistakes) of RC and tons of other forums alike. Realize, it’s not a truck or like you said a bike. So I’m happy you didn’t pack it, but it’s just added restriction. Not good. Thin motor oil does the trick but to be honest you can just do the normal thing and do nothing. I don’t do anything to my bearings and it takes a few years for them (at least the sealed ones I’m used to) to wear out. Even my senton 6s’ non sealed bearings are still good after a year. I don’t like how they’re not sealed out of the factory but I’m not complaining as there’s been no issues.


https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...ved=0ahUKEwj5id724NfgAhUIhuAKHTlfCjYQgjYIsAQP

I never used the product above myself, as I said I just do nothing and I don’t have any problems. My stuff gets muddy and wet as can be, I just make sure to clean the bearing areas after every run.


Because my senton doesn’t come with sealed bearings like all my other trucks I just use some PB blaster every run. I’ve just started doing it recently, so it’s not like i can tell if it helps as I had no problems beforehand

 

[GRspeed]

Sounds like you are using to simply displace the moisture, like we used to do with WD-40 in the day. Good idea.

I've got a set of sealed ones coming for our other Voltage that melted gears this week. We're curious to see if there's a noticeable difference.

 

[GRspeed]

Link to the thing at full tilt on 16T pinion and 2s battery.

One handed action at 1:33

 

[DoNoHarm]

Sounds like you are using to simply displace the moisture, like we used to do with WD-40 in the day. Good idea.

I've got a set of sealed ones coming for our other Voltage that melted gears this week. We're curious to see if there's a noticeable difference.

Essentially, but Id stay away from wd-40 for bearings. It’ll dilute and dissipate any lubrication inside the bearing (thin oil) and then it becomes completely dry.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Shoot just want to do a follow up on my senton bearings, I actually did find a few seized ones today.

 

[GRspeed]

Doh!!!

 

[GRspeed]

Damnit.

I believe something in the diff failed. ?

Was absolutely sure it was the differential outdrive cup(s) until I pulled them to check and they were a-ok.

This means both of my Granite Voltage models have to have the chassis split for gearbox repairs. Ugh, Arrrrg, Pssshhh.

So awesome.

Anyone have a video of the teardown?

 

[GRspeed]

Stripped down both of our Voltage models the last two days to replace gearbox components. It is not as hard of a job as I feared.

The differentials in our cars, purchased from two different places, were not filled with any liquid as some have reported. They only had grease.

In mine, I blew the diff after installing a brushless system.

In my boy's, pictured below, the idler and spur gears melted after running a 13t 540 motor. That was a big mistake that I recommend not be done.

However, the Traxxas Titan 15t 550 motor works like a charm and stays cool enough in 60°s weather but it is power hungry. Run time on the brushed 550 with a 6200mAh 50c battery was about ten minutes less than my brushless car on a 5200mAh battery and with much heavier wheels and tires, both running 2S and 50C, both 17t pinion.

 

[GRspeed]

During our first skate park action, I knocked the ESC loose and parked it. I remounted with zip ties as a backup to the foam tape.

Second time out I got the receiver wet and thought I fried it. I installed a waterproof receiver box from a 6s kraton Model. It fastened with two recessed head m3 screws. I didn't have short enough ones, so I continued to use the spacers under it.

Third time out the acrylic plate cracked from shocks and vibrations. So I mounted it to the hexagonal section of the upper chassis surface with foam tape. Since it came off when fastened to a clean, smooth, solid surface, I didn't feel comfortable leaving the tape alone to hold the ESC down there. Too bad there's not a standardized ESC mounting plate. It's one great reason to use an Arrma factory ESC.

I used race wire to hold it but a thin metal strap would seem a better choice.

Any other suggestions that are (1) easy to use, (2) lightweight, and (3) that won't block airflow to the fan?

Is there a secret foam tape to use?

 

[Lexefx]

Rpm makes a receiver box, it's a. 90% direct fit. I also use the Mamba model Rpm receiver cage. It's pretty easy to get it to work with other Esc s. I have the Onyx and had to trim a tiny corner off the inside of the cage. What I like about mounting these with the stock stand offs: Rpm's nylon is flexible, with 2 screw mounting I get some movement in the base of the cage. It's like a cushion. The Rx box doesn't move much, but can flex a little. More shock we can absorb, the longer our components last.