Granite Granite Zoskay Servo Saver

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sounDD

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My son’s Spektrum Servo died in his Granite 3s so I purchased a Zoskay 35kg Servo but need some assistance with the Servo saver (parts in the bag, I did trim down the metal arm). I also bought a Kimbrough one in the top of the picture but don’t know how to mount the linkage to it if I use it. Let me know what your thoughts are

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The HD Kimbrough SS's comes with adapters for 23 or 25 splined servos. Like @Engineer stated you will need a 25 splined SS fo most any upgrade Servo. The DS3235's are great for the price and way better than the stocker. The rig will drive so much better.. (y)
Some say the HD Kimbrough's are nicer being more firmer tensioned compared to stock. Just that they are not "Double Sheared" like the Stocker SS is. This might confuse you at first.
Both should work ok. Pick your poison.
 
I used a Kimbrough 124 on my big rock for a while. It was fine until it developed massive slop. You can mount the linkage to the saver by using a button head screw through the linkage and then screwing into the respective servo saver hole that you want to use (you'll be "threading" the hole, so you may have to push hard). If you're like me and nervous it will come loose, you can also use a small m3 nut on the backside to further capture the screw.

You will likely have to trim the servo saver down a bit for it to fit in there and not make contact with the chassis or anything else.
 
The stock Spektrum servo is 23T and the Zoskay aftermarket servo is 25T so you need a 25T servo saver, which is part number ARA340151:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-typhon-3s-blx-servo-saver-set-25t-ara340151/p786307
Yes, I was thinking of getting another one like the stock saver but might be able to use the Kimbrough and thread one of the holes
I used a Kimbrough 124 on my big rock for a while. It was fine until it developed massive slop. You can mount the linkage to the saver by using a button head screw through the linkage and then screwing into the respective servo saver hole that you want to use (you'll be "threading" the hole, so you may have to push hard). If you're like me and nervous it will come loose, you can also use a small m3 nut on the backside to further capture the screw.

You will likely have to trim the servo saver down a bit for it to fit in there and not make contact with the chassis or anything else.
I think I’ll try this and will add a nut to the backside. So basically these parts with a nut to mount the linkage to the saver?
 

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Yes, I was thinking of getting another one like the stock saver but might be able to use the Kimbrough and thread one of the holes

I think I’ll try this and will add a nut to the backside. So basically these parts with a nut to mount the linkage to the saver?
FWIW, the one that @Engineer linked does work (currently running that), but it is much softer than the kimbrough. You'll get a much more direct feel in steering with a kimbrough (and if you shim up the slop in the steering linkages).
 
You definitely have to trim the kimbrough saver. Look at the stock one and trim it roughly the same shape using the top center hole to mount The connecting rod
 
I upgraded to a higher kg servo and used the HR saver and adapter for mine, but the adapter broke apart after 5-6 packs. For now I just mashed a different adapter onto the servo. Anybody else have the adapter fail? Is there a saver that comes as 25t without the plastic insert conversion?
 
I used a Kimbrough 124 on my big rock for a while. It was fine until it developed massive slop. You can mount the linkage to the saver by using a button head screw through the linkage and then screwing into the respective servo saver hole that you want to use (you'll be "threading" the hole, so you may have to push hard). If you're like me and nervous it will come loose, you can also use a small m3 nut on the backside to further capture the screw.

You will likely have to trim the servo saver down a bit for it to fit in there and not make contact with the chassis or anything else.
I zeroed out the trim on the controller but am noticing that the Servo has more movement turning left than right. Servo horn is centered according to the diagram but seems that I need to set the end points. Can I do this through the ESC
 
Yes, I was thinking of getting another one like the stock saver but might be able to use the Kimbrough and thread one of the holes

I think I’ll try this and will add a nut to the backside. So basically these parts with a nut to mount the linkage to the saver?
Yeah I always use a nut to back it up on that SS/Arm
 
I zeroed out the trim on the controller but am noticing that the Servo has more movement turning left than right. Servo horn is centered according to the diagram but seems that I need to set the end points. Can I do this through the ESC
I believe its using the radio, but I can't remember off the top of my head since it's been a while. I know you can find plenty youtube videos on how to do it, i'd start there.

And yes regarding your picture from the post above, those look like the right parts. Looks like you are on the right track (y)
 
I zeroed out the trim on the controller but am noticing that the Servo has more movement turning left than right. Servo horn is centered according to the diagram but seems that I need to set the end points. Can I do this through the ESC
You’ll need to set the steering end points. With the stock transmitter hold the steering wheel all the way to the right and hold full brake as you power it on. This puts it into endpoint mode. Hold the wheel to the left and use the ch3 rocker button on the transmitter to set your end point. Then turn the wheel to the right and repeat. Once you’re happy with the endpoints, power off the transmitter. Of course the vehicle will need to be powered on before the transmitter. I suggest removing the wheels before hand - or at least putting it on a stand in case it decides to take off on you
 
You’ll need to set the steering end points. With the stock transmitter hold the steering wheel all the way to the right and hold full brake as you power it on. This puts it into endpoint mode. Hold the wheel to the left and use the ch3 rocker button on the transmitter to set your end point. Then turn the wheel to the right and repeat. Once you’re happy with the endpoints, power off the transmitter. Of course the vehicle will need to be powered on before the transmitter. I suggest removing the wheels before hand - or at least putting it on a stand in case it decides to take off on you
Thanks. I appreciate it and will try this to set the end points
 
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