Senton GREAT 3S 1/10 MOTOR MOD

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K-BASH

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Mojave
  3. Notorious
  4. Senton 6s
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
Tired of 3s overheating,bearing failure.i was tired of 3s arrma motor problems. So I tried different setups.esc's an motors.bigger motors worked best..right now I run arrma 4074 2050kv 6s motor in big rock an surpass 4076 2000kv 6s motor in senton an love the performance even behind blx100 esc.motors stay cool and will run full speed throu deep GRASS without breaking a sweet.little extra weight is only downfall.my next motor will be this surpass 4068 2650kv on 3s should be perfect.little brotherto my 4076.GREAT CHEAP MOTORS.throw a 20t or 26t an will SCREAM.BEST 31$ MOD FOR 1/10 ARRMA'S
 

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Run those beasts on 4s max 10sct esc. Makes for virtually no cogging powerful setup that keeps on going. For some reason I feel like 4s has longer runtime than 3s. I have changed setups and used different brands of batteries and it feels consistent, it makes sense to me though a higher voltage won’t need to pull as much amps to get a big torquer turning!
 
Run mine on 4s too.imo less wot on 4s,longer run time.you using 2650kv motor an 26t?I've tried 5s an 6s,its just too much. Getting into speed runs an 6s should produce some goood mph.4076 is a bit heavy so I'm gonna try 4068 next.you are right thou .zero cogging an tons of torque.ive torn up less stuff on bigger system too.go BIG an temps stay low with no heatsink or fan..BEST 31$ MOD PERIOD.I RUN BLX185 AN QUIKRUN150 ESC'S.A BEAST ON 3S FOR JUMPING,MORE THAN ENOUGH POWER ON 4S.5 AN 6S JUST INSANE POWER AN SPEED.NO TIRES CAN HANG ABOVE 5S
 
I can tell no difference on 3s.
Do you notice a difference between the BLX100 and BLX185 if you are just running 3s?
a. Couldn't tell different at all on 3s.blx100 4068-4076 with 26t on 3s punch on 5.youll love it.4068 2650kv should be perfect!!
On 3s blx100,4076 with 2000kv,26t probably runs 40-45mph.4068 with 2650kv should make 50mph+. All this on 4.4 inch sct senton tires.bigger tires more mph.
 
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Kind of surprised they don't pull too many amps for the esc to deal with. I had issues keeping things cool in my stampede 4x4. Switched to the max10 sct/3660sl combo, still hot. Put in a 3665 motor, better, but still on the warm side. Got a chassis that let me fit 1/8th electronics and now I can run pack after pack without much issue that's geared higher, but still on 3S. Currently have a blx185 and hpi tork 4074 2200 in it. I was running a traxxas/castle 4074 2200kv, but figured I'd try the tork as it's magnets seem less tired. Never thought to try running either motor off the max10sct.
 
Kind of surprised they don't pull too many amps for the esc to deal with. I had issues keeping things cool in my stampede 4x4. Switched to the max10 sct/3660sl combo, still hot. Put in a 3665 motor, better, but still on the warm side. Got a chassis that let me fit 1/8th electronics and now I can run pack after pack without much issue that's geared higher, but still on 3S. Currently have a blx185 and hpi tork 4074 2200 in it. I was running a traxxas/castle 4074 2200kv, but figured I'd try the tork as it's magnets seem less tired. Never thought to try running either motor off the max10sct.
Ya it's the way to go,having fun again...BIG SYSTEM ON LESS VOLTS. Surprisingly I seem to be breaking less stuff too I don't know if it's higher kv's of the smaller Motors or what.senton so much fun on 6s.fethering the throttle.smaller tires just spin,its a handful-ova GOOD TIME.
Ya it's the way to go,having fun again...BIG SYSTEM ON LESS VOLTS. Surprisingly I seem to be breaking less stuff too I don't know if it's higher kv's of the smaller Motors or what.senton so much fun on 6s.fethering the throttle.smaller tires just spin,its a handful-ova GOOD TIME.
You running 26t????
I slammed the BIG ROCK,picked up some used slicks,h-wing150a-4074.see if it can handle some 6s power on smaller tires this time.if it ever quits raining
 

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So, we can install a 40 series motor in the factory motor mount? I have been waiting on the 3670 3050kv to return to inventory, however, still waiting lol....so I just pulled the trigger on a Surpass 3665 2900kv...Will be getting a Max10 SCT as well, soon..so will definitely be testing out the 4s play with 20 and 26T pinions. Interestingly enough, the Surpass shows max 4s, however, that hobbystar 3050 is max at 5s, but I would definitely interested in testing out a 40 series if it fits without major re-engineering lol. I've replaced nearly all parts in my Senton with aluminum and I really like the weight it has now...I think 4s and 5s could actually be super fun now and be a lot less "out of control"...but only testing will tell lol
 
Yes 40 series direct fit with no mods at all.4076 is biggest I tried so far
So, we can install a 40 series motor in the factory motor mount? I have been waiting on the 3670 3050kv to return to inventory, however, still waiting lol....so I just pulled the trigger on a Surpass 3665 2900kv...Will be getting a Max10 SCT as well, soon..so will definitely be testing out the 4s play with 20 and 26T pinions. Interestingly enough, the Surpass shows max 4s, however, that hobbystar 3050 is max at 5s, but I would definitely interested in testing out a 40 series if it fits without major re-engineering lol. I've replaced nearly all parts in my Senton with aluminum and I really like the weight it has now...I think 4s and 5s could actually be super fun now and be a lot less "out of control"...but only testing will tell lol
Both my 1/10 cars have 40s.love it
 

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Yes 40 series direct fit with no mods at all.4076 is biggest I tried so far

Both my 1/10 cars have 40s.love it

Well, sweet! Guess I'm going to start doing some number crunching! lol..thanks for the news
 
So after crunching numbers across 6 different motors, 4 in 36xx and 2 in 40xx...it seems (up to 5S), the best bang for buck might still be the Hobbystar 3670 3050KV $39.99..I created a powerpoint graph for each motor 3, 4 and 5s (if they could do 4 and 5) and for Pinions 10, 13, 15, 20 and 26T. Now I understand with the larger can size, you end up with much more low end torque, however, my understanding is that you only need to increase the can in one direction, not necessarily both. So I wonder if you start to encounter diminishing returns at some point to where it doesn't make sense to increase. Keep in mind, I'm a n00b at this hobby, I just like to find formulas to help better make decisions down the road...and I love crunching numbers lol. As long as my numbers are accurate, that 3050KV is a tough one to beat...and I believe the reason for it is because it can handle up to 5S power...at 4S there were only 2 other configurations that put out more RPM over the spectrum (itself at 5S and in 2nd Hobbystar 4068 2650KV at 5S). Now obviously, we're talking about 1/10 scale and not 1/8th...I believe 1/8th and depending on how much metal is on the car/truck, changes this discussion completely...which is where I was going with diminishing returns comment earlier. I'll attach the ppt...if anyone sees flaws, please, inform me so I can make corrections and hopefully learn more =)..thanks!
 

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I’ve run the blx185 system on 4S in my 3S trucks but I ended up taking it out. Between the motor, ESC and the 4S battery I found it to be too much weight and it destroyed the handling. I settled on the Hobbystar 3670 3050kv motor with either the blx100 or the HW Max10 SCT. A BLX120 would probably be better than the 100 but they didn’t exist at the time.
 
I’ve run the blx185 system on 4S in my 3S trucks but I ended up taking it out. Between the motor, ESC and the 4S battery I found it to be too much weight and it destroyed the handling. I settled on the Hobbystar 3670 3050kv motor with either the blx100 or the HW Max10 SCT. A BLX120 would probably be better than the 100 but they didn’t exist at the time.

In regards to "destroying the handling", could you explain what you were experiencing? Again, with me being in my infancy of this hobby, trying to gain a better understanding of everything, which would help me to make better decisions towards optimization with this 1/10 as well as my next build which is most likely going to be a 1/8. Thanks in advance!
 
In regards to "destroying the handling", could you explain what you were experiencing? Again, with me being in my infancy of this hobby, trying to gain a better understanding of everything, which would help me to make better decisions towards optimization with this 1/10 as well as my next build which is most likely going to be a 1/8. Thanks in advance!
The trucks became very side heavy. I jump a lot and it was affecting performance while in the air. In addition it was hard on the rest of the chassis components. I just felt it was too much added weight for what I do.
 
The trucks became very side heavy. I jump a lot and it was affecting performance while in the air. In addition it was hard on the rest of the chassis components. I just felt it was too much added weight for what I do.

Oh ok, that make's a ton of sense, thank you! I have noticed after replacing "most" of my composite stuff, with aluminum, the truck has a nice feel, but I've wondered how that would alter it's aerial work. I'm actually contemplating, due to the body I recently bought, making it a street truck only (high speed/handling/drifting...all depending on pinion) and then going nutty with the 1/8 that I'm building next...and use that for all out bashing and high flying. I've definitely had the most fun I've had in a long time and I haven't even had my truck running this past 3-4wks...just buying and installing parts lol
 
I agree with @bicketybam . I ran a BLX185 combo in my Granite for a while. Power on 3s and 4s was great, more than the tires could put down, but the truck was really feeling the extra weight. With a 3660 3800kv on 3s, the truck still has more power than it needs, but it is much lighter, jumps and handles much better. Yeah, the 3660 runs hot, but I don't really care, as the motor was really cheap (GoolRC/Racerstar). If it fails, I may try one of those 3670 3000kv motors. I have also been wanting to try a sensored Castle 1415 2600kv, but $$$.
 
I agree with @bicketybam . I ran a BLX185 combo in my Granite for a while. Power on 3s and 4s was great, more than the tires could put down, but the truck was really feeling the extra weight. With a 3660 3800kv on 3s, the truck still has more power than it needs, but it is much lighter, jumps and handles much better. Yeah, the 3660 runs hot, but I don't really care, as the motor was really cheap (GoolRC/Racerstar). If it fails, I may try one of those 3670 3000kv motors. I have also been wanting to try a sensored Castle 1415 2600kv, but $$$.
Right on, Jerry!

I think there is a balance between power, durability and weight that needs to be considered for all the Arrma trucks. My first Kraton (V3) is almost fully upgraded with aluminum parts....M2C chassis, Voltage shock towers, every hinge pin mount and brace that Voltage used to make, aluminum chassis braces, aluminum servo mount, aluminum steering knuckles and rear hubs. It pretty much has it all except aluminum bulkheads and diff cases. And while the truck is a tank, it also drives and jumps like one. It's just too damn heavy for a 1/8 scale monster truggy.

When I got my V4 Talion I decided to only upgrade the real necessities like the chassis braces. I did end up doing the towers and chassis but the truck is noticably lighter than my Kraton. It handles so much better and it also jumps better. I am an semi-experienced driver and I really haven't broken any of the things I went aluminum with on my Kraton. I guess what I'm driving at is that going full beefcake isn't always necessary.

The thing I love about the 3S trucks is how light and nimble they are. Once you start packing on the weight, either though larger motors/ESC's and/or aluminum upgrades, it really takes away from the handling and it's nimbleness. You need to find the right balance between strength, power and weight ???
 
Right on, Jerry!

I think there is a balance between power, durability and weight that needs to be considered for all the Arrma trucks. My first Kraton (V3) is almost fully upgraded with aluminum parts....M2C chassis, Voltage shock towers, every hinge pin mount and brace that Voltage used to make, aluminum chassis braces, aluminum servo mount, aluminum steering knuckles and rear hubs. It pretty much has it all except aluminum bulkheads and diff cases. And while the truck is a tank, it also drives and jumps like one. It's just too damn heavy for a 1/8 scale monster truggy.

When I got my V4 Talion I decided to only upgrade the real necessities like the chassis braces. I did end up doing the towers and chassis but the truck is noticably lighter than my Kraton. It handles so much better and it also jumps better. I am an semi-experienced driver and I really haven't broken any of the things I went aluminum with on my Kraton. I guess what I'm driving at is that going full beefcake isn't always necessary.

The thing I love about the 3S trucks is how light and nimble they are. Once you start packing on the weight, either though larger motors/ESC's and/or aluminum upgrades, it really takes away from the handling and it's nimbleness. You need to find the right balance between strength, power and weight ???

Good to know! My motor should/will be here tomorrow...and I'll finally be able to rip it and see the difference....then again, I haven't driven it in so long...who knows what will happen rofl...I recall in the past, when I first was driving it (mainly on the street)...it seemed at times to be too light for how fast it was on 3S...to the point where it would take off and flip backwards after accelerating past 50% throttle. I've only ever used the 20T from the factory, but once I changed over to the Six Pack ST tires...even sandy road wheelies...so was hoping I could get some better controlled speed and / or take offs...Find out tomorrow lol
 
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