Haastnooit’s RC related 3D prints

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MJX Hyper Go battery-tray insert

I love my little 1-16 MJX Hyper Go monstertrucks, they are really durable and due to the small size very convenient to take along with you. You don’t need a lot of space to throw in a quick bash … perfect fun ! Parts and upgrades are cheap too, so that is another bonus for this platform.

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Only drawback I feel is the proprietary lipo the car comes with when purchased. The lipo is oddly shaped and held in to the battery tray of the car by a clip-system. The system works great but it does not use the full potential of the dimensions of the battery tray as can be seen on the pics below.

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So I went on a search to find a bigger 2S lipo with higher capacity that would fit the battery tray. I found the perfect fit on AliExpress in Limskey store, a 2S 2800mah lipo with really perfect dimensions (80x34x18,5mm).

I designed a insert for the battery tray that shields the lipo from the steering rack, prohibits shifting of the lipo on impact and makes it possible to use the stock clip-system to secure the lipo in place. Some minor Dremel work to the clip is necessary to make it work with the normal lipo shape.

The hexagonal bosses on the bottom of the insert click in the honeycomb pattern of the chassis. Together with the small lip on the chassis it secures the insert in the chassis.

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More battery storage

A few weeks back I sorted out my lipo storage, I made some cool lipo-racks for the bigger and medium sized lipo’s I got. I really like the clean look of all lipo’s neatly stored in my ammo boxes.

With the purchase of the four extra 2S batteries for the MJX Hyper Go trucks it was time to make the final step and make some similar lipo-racks for the smaller crawler and 1-16 car lipo’s. I guess all my ammo boxes are filled up now …

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Electronics restoration

For the rebuild of my new used Kraton 6S EXB I had to repair the broken cooling parts on the ESC and motor. I started working on the ESC earlier when waiting on parts For the rebuild. Reason for that was the damage to the housing of the max8, it was a real challenge to figure out what to do to get it restored to a usable state.

Unfortunately I dove right in to the challenge and forgot to take pictures of the starting point. For reference below a picture of a complete max8 ESC.

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So you will have to do with a worldly description of the starting state of my ESC. The top half of the housing which covers the bullets and caps on the sides and also incloses the fan in the center was completely shot to bits. It was cut up at the sides (part above the heatsink of the lower case) to make room for a replacement fan that did not fit properly. The center stepped part was cracked in one of the corners of the vertical wall on both the bullet and cap side. The center top section was cracked at 3 of the 4 screw holes.

It was quite a challenge to figure out how to make something decent, here is what I came up with.

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I shaved down a bit of the ESC heatsink on the lower case so the aluminium fan fits perfectly on top and between the taller heatsink edges. I glued the cracks in the vertical walls on the stepped parts, completely removed the top center part of the top housing and 3D printed a new top plate to compress everything down.

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After I made a top plate for the ESC fan I also 3D printed one to fit the Integy fan on the motor heatsink.

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This is how the heatsink looked before, the top plate on the fan is really thin and mangled piece of see trough plastic.

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I really like this kind of stuff, two very simple 3D prints that make a whole lot difference to look and function.

Happy and smiling, I have a really good feeling about the ESC solution, these little things what makes 3D printing such a great addition to our hobby.
 
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FMS FCX24 Power Wagon parts

For my FMS FCX24 Power Wagon build I designed and 3D printed several parts to enhance the look of the truck. For the front I 3D printed a nice bumper with stinger, I found this design on Thingiverse.

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5518266

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I don’t like the stock rollcage with tire because I think it emphasizes the short look of the truck so I designed and 3D printed 4 different rear bed solutions.

1) Simple short flatbed
2) Short flatbed with fuelcell
3) Long bed with Dakar fuelcell
4) Long bed

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The number 4 bed on the pics above is printed with tree support, it left markings on the surface due to incorrect settings. I printed a new one that looks way better. I did not get pictures of that piece yet, I will get them when I post pics of the build.

Installed on the Power Wagon:

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For the stock FMS remote I designed and 3D printed a clip-on base plate so I am able to set the remote down standing up. I find it really annoying the stock radio is not able to stand, you have to lay it down.

Not anymore …

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See my buildthread for more details and pictures: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/haastnooits-fms-fcx24-power-wagon.61402/
 
FMS FCX24 Power Wagon parts

For my FMS FCX24 Power Wagon build I designed and 3D printed several parts to enhance the look of the truck. For the front I 3D printed a nice bumper with stinger, I found this design on Thingiverse.

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5518266

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I don’t like the stock rollcage with tire because I think it emphasizes the short look of the truck so I designed and 3D printed 4 different rear bed solutions.

1) Simple short flatbed
2) Short flatbed with fuelcell
3) Long bed with Dakar fuelcell
4) Long bed

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The number 4 bed on the pics above is printed with tree support, it left markings on the surface due to incorrect settings. I printed a new one that looks way better. I did not get pictures of that piece yet, I will get them when I post pics of the build.

Installed on the Power Wagon:

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For the stock FMS remote I designed and 3D printed a clip-on base plate so I am able to set the remote down standing up. I find it really annoying the stock radio is not able to stand, you have to lay it down.

Not anymore …

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See my buildthread for more details and pictures: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/haastnooits-fms-fcx24-power-wagon.61402/
Looks great! Check out the what did you print/CAD today thread… I think you’d be a great addition there!
 
Thanks ... I have seen that thread and will post something in the future there (y)

More workbench organization

A few weeks back I made some additional designs and 3D prints for further workbench organization purposes. From the beginning of entering the RC hobby I kept my hexdrivers in the plastic half of the packaging I bought it in. Functional but now I have the 3D printer it was time to upgrade to a nice small toolstation for the my hexdrivers. So I fired up my CAD program and came up with this …

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The 3D printed result:

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To increase the storage capacity for smaller stuff on my workbench I made some storage boxes. The look is based on the scifi storagepods as found on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1489606). But I did draw my own version from zero, this way I could make it fit the space I have for them behind the pitmat on my workbench.

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The 3D printed result:

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I filled one up with all the spare parts I have for my FCX24 mini crawler. In the other I stored all kind off miscellaneous stuff, old dremel bits, pepper seeds, paprika seeds and what not ... I like them !
 
Thanks ... I have seen that thread and will post something in the future there (y)

More workbench organization

A few weeks back I made some additional designs and 3D prints for further workbench organization purposes. From the beginning of entering the RC hobby I kept my hexdrivers in the plastic half of the packaging I bought it in. Functional but now I have the 3D printer it was time to upgrade to a nice small toolstation for the my hexdrivers. So I fired up my CAD program and came up with this …

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The 3D printed result:

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To increase the storage capacity for smaller stuff on my workbench I made some storage boxes. The look is based on the scifi storagepods as found on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1489606). But I did draw my own version from zero, this way I could make it fit the space I have for them behind the pitmat on my workbench.

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The 3D printed result:

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I filled one up with all the spare parts I have for my FCX24 mini crawler. In the other I stored all kind off miscellaneous stuff, old dremel bits, pepper seeds, paprika seeds and what not ... I like them !
I always felt all those storage boxes are all ginmicky and just worst versions of what you find at the dolar store just trying to print one already costs 2$ in filament
 
1/24 scale RTI Ramp and FCX24 axlestands

I designed and 3D printed a 1/24 RTI ramp and some axle stands for the FCX24. I did things a little bit different this time with the design and construction of the 3D parts for the RTI ramp. I decided I would try some simple weathering to make it look like rusted steel. So therefore I designed the different parts to be glued together, and not bother with incorporating tiny press-fit connections. The paint will mask all traces of glue so no problem to use glue in this case.

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I glued everything together freehanded with Ruderer L530 Kunststoff-Klebstoff , no jigs, no clamps, just my fingers to keep things aligned and pressure the bonds.

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Adding rust look ... I used some silver spray-paint as the base color. I did not let the base coat dry completely before adding the rust with some Tamiya PS14 Copper spray-paint. I finished the parts of with a coat of Tamiya PS55 Flat clear to get rid of the shine. I deliberately did not shake the cans before use, so that the spray would not be even and give some sputters now and then. I applied the rust color in multiple stages to get it on there from all different sides. I used my wife’s hairdryer to dry the rust paint as quickly as possible in between.

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On to the axle stands. No glue of course, this is a simple one piece design.

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I did the same rust process on the axle stands.

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All rusted out parts together …

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1/24 scale RTI Ramp and FCX24 axlestands

I designed and 3D printed a 1/24 RTI ramp and some axle stands for the FCX24. I did things a little bit different this time with the design and construction of the 3D parts for the RTI ramp. I decided I would try some simple weathering to make it look like rusted steel. So therefore I designed the different parts to be glued together, and not bother with incorporating tiny press-fit connections. The paint will mask all traces of glue so no problem to use glue in this case.

RTI ramp 3D.jpg


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I glued everything together freehanded with Ruderer L530 Kunststoff-Klebstoff , no jigs, no clamps, just my fingers to keep things aligned and pressure the bonds.

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20230409_124123.jpg



Adding rust look ... I used some silver spray-paint as the base color. I did not let the base coat dry completely before adding the rust with some Tamiya PS14 Copper spray-paint. I finished the parts of with a coat of Tamiya PS55 Flat clear to get rid of the shine. I deliberately did not shake the cans before use, so that the spray would not be even and give some sputters now and then. I applied the rust color in multiple stages to get it on there from all different sides. I used my wife’s hairdryer to dry the rust paint as quickly as possible in between.

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On to the axle stands. No glue of course, this is a simple one piece design.

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I did the same rust process on the axle stands.

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All rusted out parts together …

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Wow! That looks amazing! Great job!
 
Small scale tire-rack

I made a tire rack design to hold 2 sets of tires for the FCX24, I did not want the tires to be standing on bars like 1/1 tire racks. This of course to prevent flat spots. So I added a M3 rod to go through the center hole of the wheels.

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The rack has a 3mm trough hole on one side and a threaded hole on the opposite side so the M3 rod is secured in the rack. I threadlocked a dome shaped nut to one side of the rod. You can grab this with your fingers or use a standard T-wrench to loosen or tighten the rod.

Brand tag … just to add some detail.

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I decided to paint the racks and try to make them look used and dirty. First coat silver, second coat red that turned orange after 10 years of not using. I used the hairdryer again to speed up drying, then thinned some black paint to make some kind of a wash and went to town on the racks.

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Filled with tires ...

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Arrma 6S Carry-Handle (for Kraton / Talion / Typhon)

The latest addition to all carry-handles is compatible with:

ARA 106053 Kraton 6S EXB roller
ARA 8608V5 Kraton 6s V5 BLX RTR
ARA 106040 Kraton 6S BLX RTR
ARA 8707 Talion 6S BLX RTR
ARA 106048 Talion 6S BLX RTR
ARA8306 TLR Tuned Typhon roller
ARA8406 TLR Tuned Typhon 6S BLX RTR
ARA8605V5 Typhon 6S V5 BLX RTR
ARA106046 Typhon 6S BLX RTR

And offcourse all other RC cars which use the stock Arrma wingmount set (ARAC9681 / AR320347) without wheeliebar installed.

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Creality K1 – upgrade parts

While awaiting delivery of my new Creality K1 3D-printer I printed some parts to “upgrade” the printer when I get it out of the box. Or better said address some out of the box issue’s or weak points.

The stock position of the spool on the rear of the machine is one design weak point I really don’t like, it is awkward for me to reach in my set up as the rear of the printer will be towards the wall. I downloaded a side spool holder and run-out sensor relocation bracket from printables.

Filelocation: https://www.printables.com/model/507110-creality-k1-side-load-spool-holder-version-2

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In order to give the PFTE tube from the run-out sensor to the printhead some less sharp bends, and prevent under extrusion of filament due to friction, it is common to “loosen” the PFTE tube from the top cable chain. However this can lead to the PFTE tube scratching the top lid on the inside. To make more room for free movement of the PFTE tube I printed a lid riser consisting of 4 corners and 3 “inbetweeners” to fill in the gaps on the front and sides.

Filelocation: https://www.printables.com/model/520207-jc-creality-k1-lid-riser

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For the “inbetweeners” several designs are available, also you can easily make up your own.

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Another point that in my mind should have been standard on the K1 or any other enclosed printer are 270° hinges on the door. I feel I will most certainly bump in to the door at some point in time while operating the K1. So to better be save then sorry I downloaded a PIP file for a set of 270° hinges from printables.

Filelocation: https://www.printables.com/model/641473-door-latch-for-creality-k1-270-degree-hinge-upgrad

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Also printed a door latch to secure the door when fully opened.

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Cheers ...
 
Well I kind off neglected this thread a bit the second half of last year ... I will add the stuff I designed and printed in that period in some additional posts. Hope I will keep this log more up to date this upcoming year. Time will tell ...

Additional FCX24 rearbed solutions

1) Simple Small FlatBed (SSFB)

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2) Simple Big FlatBed (SBFB)

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Options 1) and 2) are for those who want to add their own stuff to the rear bed of the Power Wagon. With these plates you can have a flat base to which you can glue whatever you like and make use of the stock mounting points on the chassis. So easy to remove if needed.

3) Simple Small Fuel Cell (SSFC)

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Painted one ...

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4) Full Bed Fuel Cell (FBFC)

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Painted one ...

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5) Full Bed Fuel Cell V2 (FBFC V2)

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6) Ful Bed FlatBed (FBFB)

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Painted one ...

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7) Half Bed Fuel Cell (HBFC)

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I like the worn effect of the painting on the printed parts. What went in to getting that effect, was it desired or accidental?

Thanks. The effect is intentional, the parts are painted in the base color (red or silver), then quick dried with a hairdryer and then painted with my home-made wash while still being some what tacky. My wash is basically a thinned down black paint.
 
Arrma Infraction 3S carstand

I made this low carstand for my Infraction 3S couple weeks ago, it was printed on the K1.

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With the handle you can easily place and remove the carstand when tilting the car on its side. Wheels are floating 2mm above the surface, I call it "Ghost-stance" ...

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Traxxas Xmaxx carstand

Another simple design and print I made. These stands are not intendend for using when working on the car, it is simply a stand I use when the Xmaxx is stored in my basher rack. With these stands I can put the Xmaxx on the shelf on its wheels, then tilt it back and place the two stands under both bulkheads and release it back to center. Much easier then trying to set the Xmaxx on a central car stand.

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Crawler hauler 1/18 scale

One of my more recent projects is designing, printing and building this small scale crawler hauler. You can check out the build thread for more details and pics if you are interested.

Building a small scale crawler hauler | ARRMA RC Forum (arrmaforum.com)

2D-plans

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3D-models

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3D-parts

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Nearly finished trailer …

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With towing vehicle …

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Crawler hauler 1/18 scale

One of my more recent projects is designing, printing and building this small scale crawler hauler. You can check out the build thread for more details and pics if you are interested.

Building a small scale crawler hauler | ARRMA RC Forum (arrmaforum.com)

2D-plans

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3D-models

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3D-parts

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Nearly finished trailer …

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With towing vehicle …

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Very nice!
 
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