Has anyone ever resoldered the copper wires inside the motor can?

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Notorious J

It's gonna break, so might as well send it!
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So I had a BLX 2050kv stop woorking after my 116 mph run. Figured it had given me all it had so I was okay with it. When I opened it to take out the ceramic bearings I had installed, I noticed the magnets and windings looked clean and unharmed. Closer inspection showed that the three sets of copper wire that make up the winding, had come unsoldered at the very end near the rear end cap. Obviously, the heat from running that motor over 100 mph repeatedly had finally taken it's toll and there will little balls of solder spread out in the area. So anyways, I cleaned it up then I took some high heat solder and fused them back together. Put a little heat shrink over the area to keep it separated from everything else in the can. Buttoned it up and gave it go. Presto, it's spinning again and smooth as silk. Not sure how effective my soldering will be, and I already threw in another 2050kv in the Typhon with the cap that has the ceramic bearing in it. What's the consensus, run it or not?

Going out to @LibertyMKiii @Mr.Duke @jondilly1974 @K-BASH @Hammer Down @Edough13 @The Donut Man @Notoriousone @rotauq (when you're feeling better) @BashingBrian @Speed/267 @ABabyEater @jkflow and anyone else who uses there rigs for high speed.
 
Bravo for trying to fix it, I would have given it a hard baseball throw at the nearest trash can. 😂
 
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So I had a BLX 2050kv stop woorking after my 116 mph run. Figured it had given me all it had so I was okay with it. When I opened it to take out the ceramic bearings I had installed, I noticed the magnets and windings looked clean and unharmed. Closer inspection showed that the three sets of copper wire that make up the winding, had come unsoldered at the very end near the rear end cap. Obviously, the heat from running that motor over 100 mph repeatedly had finally taken it's toll and there will little balls of solder spread out in the area. So anyways, I cleaned it up then I took some high heat solder and fused them back together. Put a little heat shrink over the area to keep it separated from everything else in the can. Buttoned it up and gave it go. Presto, it's spinning again and smooth as silk. Not sure how effective my soldering will be, and I already threw in another 2050kv in the Typhon with the cap that has the ceramic bearing in it. What's the consensus, run it or not?

Going out to @LibertyMKiii @Mr.Duke @jondilly1974 @K-BASH @Hammer Down @Edough13 @The Donut Man @Notoriousone @rotauq (when you're feeling better) @BashingBrian @Speed/267 @ABabyEater @jkflow and anyone else who uses there rigs for high speed.
Run it. You know the limit of the motor. When it fails catastrophically or you get to the limit of the motor change it out. No reason not to if the windings are in good shape. Maybe snag a yeah racing or thunderoos dual fan to keep temps down a bit more.
 
Win it or bin it 😉🤣
But seriously I would not use it again, I would retire it to a basher and not use it in a speed car again..
Last thing you need is a 100+mph motor failure..!!🤔
 
Simple overcurrent occurrence, extreme currents cause extreme heat and solder melts around highest resitance point (point of solder).
De-soldered many motors in my younger days. The insulation on that wire evaporates around 500F, again pending what they used.

Now careful with solder melting points, typically they use high temp solder (Tin/Silver) which melts at ~ 420F while I'm sure you've used Tin/Lead which melts ~ 300F. Now, that point is weaker than it was before, assuming that they actually used the higher temp version.

Technically nothing wrong with it, no damage to the motor and it's a valid repair.

Edit: Fan's don't help here, these are extreme bursts that can't be handled. The fans help to prevent the core from overheating but not that specific point.
 
Is give it some test runs at lower speed maybe give a good couple hard pulls to see if it acts funny at all then send it👍
On the bench, I give it a few good pulls. Nothing crazy as I know that esc's don't like that sort of thing, but enough to know that it was smooth. I won't need it till the one that's in it now ghosts me, so I'm good for the short term.
Run it. You know the limit of the motor. When it fails catastrophically or you get to the limit of the motor change it out. No reason not to if the windings are in good shape. Maybe snag a yeah racing or thunderoos dual fan to keep temps down a bit more.
Thanks. I'm running two 28000 rpm fans on it now and normally it's enough to keep it cool.
Win it or bin it 😉🤣
But seriously I would not use it again, I would retire it to a basher and not use it in a speed car again..
Last thing you need is a 100+mph motor failure..!!🤔
What! It's like you don't know me. Catastrophic failure is my slogan. Good advice though. Looks like it might hang around for the Notorious or Kraton.
Simple overcurrent occurrence, extreme currents cause extreme heat and solder melts around highest resitance point (point of solder).
De-soldered many motors in my younger days. The insulation on that wire evaporates around 500F, again pending what they used.

Now careful with solder melting points, typically they use high temp solder (Tin/Silver) which melts at ~ 420F while I'm sure you've used Tin/Lead which melts ~ 300F. Now, that point is weaker than it was before, assuming that they actually used the higher temp version.

Technically nothing wrong with it, no damage to the motor and it's a valid repair.

Edit: Fan's don't help here, these are extreme bursts that can't be handled. The fans help to prevent the core from overheating but not that specific point.
Thanks. I checked the two types of solder I have, and one is tin/lead and the other is tin/silver. I used the tin/silver because I read what you and a few others had written in one of the @K-BASH threads. See, I'm paying attention, even if it's just a little bit.
 
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Run it at first in another car, if it goes well keep it as a second for the motor with the ceramic bearing
 
On the bench, I give it a few good pulls. Nothing crazy as I know that esc's don't like that sort of thing, but enough to know that it was smooth. I won't need it till the one that's in it now ghosts me, so I'm good for the short term.

Thanks. I'm running two 28000 rpm fans on it now and normally it's enough to keep it cool.

What! It's like you don't know me. Catastrophic failure is my slogan. Good advice though. Looks like it might hang around for the Notorious or Kraton.

Thanks. I checked the two types of solder I have, and one is tin/lead and the other is tin/silver. I used the tin/silver because I read what you and a few others had written in one of the @K-BASH threads. See, I'm paying attention, even if it's just a little bit.
Sorry for bumping this thread and I know this is going to sound like a dumb question but what is the difference between silver/tin solder and normal unleaded? Or are they the same thing?
 
Sorry for bumping this thread and I know this is going to sound like a dumb question but what is the difference between silver/tin solder and normal unleaded? Or are they the same thing?
🤷‍♂️
 
What is silver solder used for?


"Hard soldering" or "silver soldering" is used to join precious and semi-precious metals such as gold, silver, brass, and copper. The solder is usually described as easy, medium, or hard in reference to its melting temperature, not the strength of the joint.
 
Use it or what was the point of taking the time to fix it🤓 Go or Blow, maybe both haha
 
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