Having issues with Spektrum DX5C in my 6s Kraton

[pa_fullsend]

Okay so I bought the dx5c so I could consolidate on my radios and because of the overwhelming hatred of the stock arrma radio. I got the version with the srs6000 receiver and threw it in my 6s kraton. I bined it like the manual said and made sure throttle brake reverse was all good and set steering end points. Okay. So I throw a fresh 6s pack in and go out for a bash. As soon as I got to some open space and let er rip I noticed it had way less power to it then when I was using the stock radio. I checked that my throttle setting was at 100% but that’s about all I know. Anyone have any advice or can think of what my problem is?


Also, not sure if this is the radio or the servo. It shouldn’t be because it’s a brand new savox 1210sg, this would only be the 3rd run with it. It turns fine and all but if I lift the front end off the ground ( with everything on, not moving steering or throttle) just to check out the truck after a little jump or whatever the tires just flop to right like the servo isn’t holding it steady. If that makes sense. Again, didn’t have this issue before switching to the Dx5c

 

[olds97_lss]

Did you recalibrate the esc to the new receiver? Anytime you switch out receivers you have to recalibrate the esc to it.

 

[pa_fullsend]

Did you recalibrate the esc to the new receiver? Anytime you switch out receivers you have to recalibrate the esc to it.

Well poop. I didn’t do anything with the esc, what do I do? And how? Also did I fiddlestick anything up by not re calibrating the esc? Damnit I knew it wasn’t that easy..

 

[olds97_lss]

I think all you do now that it's bound to the receiver is the following:
1) Connect batteries, turn on TX and press/hold the set button ‘A’. Turn the switch on ‘B’ and release the set button when the RED light flashes on the ESC.
2) TX in neutral - press set button (1 Green flash)
3) TX full throttle - press set button (2 Green flashes)
4) TX full brake - press set button (3 Green flashes)
5) Switch off ESC to complete setup

From the BLX185 manual:

 

[pa_fullsend]

I think all you do now that it's bound to the receiver is the following:
1) Connect batteries, turn on TX and press/hold the set button ‘A’. Turn the switch on ‘B’ and release the set button when the RED light flashes on the ESC.
2) TX in neutral - press set button (1 Green flash)
3) TX full throttle - press set button (2 Green flashes)
4) TX full brake - press set button (3 Green flashes)
5) Switch off ESC to complete setup

From the BLX185 manual:

Ohhh that calibration okay thought it was something different. Okay well I will be doing that when I get home then to see if that works. I didn’t do that yesterday when I swapped the new receiver in. I certainly hope that’s the issue and I didn’t ruin anything by not doing it. Also since I’m a noob I have a somewhat un related question then maybe you can help me with. So if I go home and do this, all my lipos are at storage charge (always storage them at the end of the day) but anyway can I hook up a storage charged lipo to do this and then take it outside to test it? Is there enough “juice” in there to get it up to speed and what not. I won’t damage the lipo right? It’s technically just half charged? Then re storage it when I’m all done. Sorry for 21 questions haha I just want to make sure I’m not screwing anything up, still learning here !

 

[olds97_lss]

Storage charge is basically half empty/full. So you should be fine, just don't expect a long run time. Lipo packs don't like being stored full or empty. When stored full, the internal resistance goes up, which is bad for the life/performance of the pack. When stored empty, they self discharge down to an unsafe level and once it gets too low, many chargers won't try to charge them and your stuck with a dead pack.

I don't keep my lipo's full overnight. I always run them down to storage charge even if I'm going to run them the next day. Usually happens when I break something as I typically take 6 packs with me (use 2 at a time) and more often than not, I only use 4, so I have to run 2 of them down to storage on my charger when I get home. On good days, I use all 6... and charge some more with my field charger. Those days have been rare lately though. lol!

 

[pa_fullsend]

Storage charge is basically half empty/full. So you should be fine, just don't expect a long run time. Lipo packs don't like being stored full or empty. When stored full, the internal resistance goes up, which is bad for the life/performance of the pack. When stored empty, they self discharge down to an unsafe level and once it gets too low, many chargers won't try to charge them and your stuck with a dead pack.

I don't keep my lipo's full overnight. I always run them down to storage charge even if I'm going to run them the next day. Usually happens when I break something as I typically take 6 packs with me (use 2 at a time) and more often than not, I only use 4, so I have to run 2 of them down to storage on my charger when I get home. On good days, I use all 6... and charge some more with my field charger. Those days have been rare lately though. lol!

Okay perfect, yeah I just wanna test tonight, no full runs today, unfortunately haha Monday’s are busy for me. But yeah I always make sure I storage charge all my lipos at the end of the day no matter if I ran em out or didn’t use em at all. Thanks for your info! Much appreciated. Yeah I have two 4s lipos and one 6s for my kraton and I can’t seem to get a day where I drain all 3. It’s always something lol

 

[bicketybam]

There is a very specific procedure for binding the SR6000. Not only do you do the usual full throttle, neutral and full brake when binding, you also have to turn right and then turn left. Read the instructions. Truck needs to be flat on the ground when you do this. My honest advice is to rebind and disable AVC. You don't need it in a Kraton.

 

[olds97_lss]

There is a very specific procedure for binding the SR6000. Not only do you do the usual full throttle, neutral and full brake when binding, you also have to turn right and then turn left. Read the instructions. Truck needs to be flat on the ground when you do this. My honest advice is to rebind and disable AVC. You don't need it in a Kraton.

Didn't know that. I don't think I got that version of the DX5C with that receiver... yeah, mine came with the SR415 and I haven't used the receiver yet. I may need to, the range on the knock off orange one in my 21TM revo isn't very good. I lose com with it when it drops down in the dips at the bmx track at about 75 yards or so. Those knock offs seem to lose range after a year or so of use. I just haven't run my nitro much, so it's been in it quite a while.

 

[pa_fullsend]

There is a very specific procedure for binding the SR6000. Not only do you do the usual full throttle, neutral and full brake when binding, you also have to turn right and then turn left. Read the instructions. Truck needs to be flat on the ground when you do this. My honest advice is to rebind and disable AVC. You don't need it in a Kraton.

Okay thanks. I will re bind and disable the avc. Also re calibrate the esc as @olds97_lss said. Do I have to do anything before re binding. Is there like an “un bind” I need to do, and after re binding I recalibrate esc? Should I do any of this in a specific order.

 

[bicketybam]

Okay thanks. I will re bind and disable the avc. Also re calibrate the esc as @olds97_lss said. Do I have to do anything before re binding. Is there like an “un bind” I need to do, and after re binding I recalibrate esc? Should I do any of this in a specific order.

No I'm bind. Rebind and then recalibrate ESC.

 

[pa_fullsend]

No I'm bind. Rebind and then recalibrate ESC.

Thanks man I think that solved my problem. I did the re bind, re calibrated and turned off avc (thanks to a @razorrc video) and it seems like I’ve got full power again and nothing wonky with the steering anymore. Appreciate your help