Big Rock Havoc's Big Rock

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Im about to order it Havoc - It was in the big rock when you ran through that water and it still was fine. While these servos are not waterproof - It makes no sense to make a 1/8 scale Monster Truck Crawling Servo that is not water resistant. Maybe I will call them tomorrow.. My LHS fixed the Fazon - just a pin - they were out of my Savox 1270tg - which is water resistant. See I get it if its for racing ....
 
Im about to order it Havoc - It was in the big rock when you ran through that water and it still was fine. While these servos are not waterproof - It makes no sense to make a 1/8 scale Monster Truck Crawling Servo that is not water resistant. Maybe I will call them tomorrow.. My LHS fixed the Fazon - just a pin - they were out of my Savox 1270tg - which is water resistant. See I get it if its for racing ....

Just because it made it through the water today, doesn't mean water didn't get inside. it does help that the aluminum case is o-ring sealed. I still greased up the output shaft on the servo.

Also, this servo should be using an external BEC to supply the correct voltage and amperage. I still have to install mine. you run a higher risk frying your reciever without it.
 
Just because it made it through the water today, doesn't mean water didn't get inside. it does help that the aluminum case is o-ring sealed. I still greased up the output shaft on the servo.

Also, this servo should be using an external BEC to supply the correct voltage and amperage. I still have to install mine. you run a higher risk frying your reciever without it.
I used a Caslte bec on my Bl42a Bluebird servo and that's probably why it burnt up,and have also read of the large rc plane guys having the same problem( bec fails,and sends full voltage to the servo and rx).Their solution was to run a 2 cell lipo to power the rx.
 
I used a Caslte bec on my Bl42a Bluebird servo and that's probably why it burnt up,and have also read of the large rc plane guys having the same problem( bec fails,and sends full voltage to the servo and rx).Their solution was to run a 2 cell LiPo to power the rx.

Thanks for the tip!

TBH, this servo is beast off the factory BEC through the ESC. If I were to fry something, the receiver is going to be what goes... and that's actually way cheaper than the reciever.
 
Thanks for the tip!

TBH, this servo is beast off the factory BEC through the ESC. If I were to fry something, the receiver is going to be what goes... and that's actually way cheaper than the reciever.
I'm using the Max8 esc set to 7.4 on my 1270tg Savox.It puts out 6a continuos and max 23a,same as the arrma Blx200 ,only it has one setting ,6v.
 
Thanks for the tip!

TBH, this servo is beast off the factory BEC through the ESC. If I were to fry something, the receiver is going to be what goes... and that's actually way cheaper than the reciever.
Any issues with your diff brain equipment at 7.4v?
I have a Kraton,so 7.4 is ideal.I think i would replace the diff brain servos out to Hv so i could run all at 7.4?
 
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I managed to break one of these buggers today. I was pretty suprised I had both halves. but that's easy to do when one half is wedged between the axle and the bulkhead
 
Anyone else feel like their they are holding little bricks of c4? haha
 

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Annd, I just broke a second one

Has this issue already been addressed somewhere? I'm getting tired of only running 10 minutes at a time between repairs.

I just found a hell of a bashing spot too...
 
View attachment 4120
I managed to break one of these buggers today. I was pretty suprised I had both halves. but that's easy to do when one half is wedged between the axle and the bulkhead

I think it has to be due to the fact that the retainers are plastic. Someone needs to come up with some aluminum to help! Hardened pins would also be awesome.
 
The plastic retainer is ok in this situation. I would like to see metal also, but it's not the retainers fault. I think it's just the floating pin design, and the strength of that pin. or the fact this truck is an overpowered tank.
 
The plastic retainer is ok in this situation. I would like to see metal also, but it's not the retainers fault. I think it's just the floating pin design, and the strength of that pin. or the fact this truck is an overpowered tank.

If something has to break, would you rather it be a $1 pin or an $18 u-joint/outdrive? There has to be some failure built in to protect the expensive components. Why do you break every 10 minutes? I used to ask myself the same question. Then I started to really pay attention to when I was on the throttle and the brakes and on what surfaces. You will rarely (if ever) break a drive line component on loose dirt or gravel but if you run on grass, hard pack or tarmac, you will do it constantly. All that torque and too much traction equals broken parts if you are landing under power or under braking. I used to break a lot. I learned what behaviors broke my truck and changed them so now I break a lot less. It's all about finesse. Watch the guys who are really good. Throttle control, throttle control, throttle control.
 
If something has to break, would you rather it be a $1 pin or an $18 u-joint/outdrive? There has to be some failure built in to protect the expensive components. Why do you break every 10 minutes? I used to ask myself the same question. Then I started to really pay attention to when I was on the throttle and the brakes and on what surfaces. You will rarely (if ever) break a drive line component on loose dirt or gravel but if you run on grass, hard pack or tarmac, you will do it constantly. All that torque and too much traction equals broken parts if you are landing under power or under braking. I used to break a lot. I learned what behaviors broke my truck and changed them so now I break a lot less. It's all about finesse. Watch the guys who are really good. Throttle control, throttle control, throttle control.

I'd rather drive it however I want to drive it and not break anything. why can't the tires be the weak link? Why can't it just backflip or break loose on high traction surfaces versus breaking anything at all?

I get what you're saying. I actually have been using my endpoints to limit throttle, as per your recommendations. today when I broke that pin, I was running on loose gravel. the last pin broke in wet grass.

I have 5-6 runs on it. 2 of them were without breakage.
My recap,
First pack putting around the yard, no breakage.
Second run,
Broken U joint on day 1, as well as a blown tire
Third run,
Broken rear hub that was totally my fault.
Forth run no issues, tons of fun.
Fifth run in the backyard, broken pin
6th run at the new bash spot (loose gravel) broken pin.
Overall, very minor repairs, fast cheap and easy fixes. it's just the fact that I have to do them frequently. I'm sure once I learn how to drive it as if it were made of glass, everything will last longer... but that is the exact opposite of why I chose the Big Rock.
I have 8 more pins in the mail and 2 spare complete axle assemblies coming next week. I'm hoping to make it through 2 sets of batteries in one day.
 
The thing about those broken metal parts is that they finally break when you see it happen but those failures have been coming for a long time. Stress after stress causes them to weaken and micro-fracture so you would never know they were ready to fail until they finally do and it seems like under such a minor load. That's why race cars and airplanes and helicopters and things like that get torn down, inspected and x-rayed after so many hours of use. We don't have that luxury so we just pay for the parts when they break.
 
The thing about those broken metal parts is that they finally break when you see it happen but those failures have been coming for a long time...

Again, I understand what you mean, but by saying those broken metal parts have been a long time coming is ridiculous. it's in a way saying they were broken when I got them. out of my 6 sets of packs to date, I've hit low voltage cutoff once. every other time was cut short, and some drastically. even on the pack 2 HD U-joint failure... there was simply not enough run time for "a long time coming"

All I'm saying is for a $750 toy, I should have no issues with stock driveline components while running a stock power system. Arrma could have done better here, as I'm not the only person who has experienced these issues. for that kind of money I could have bought a real beater car with 250,000 miles on it, converted it to RC and not had axle issues when I floor it...

Again, I don't get upset when I hit a curb and it breaks, but I do get frustrated when I hit the gas and it breaks.

I am impressed with the strength of everything else on this truck so far. it's taken some tumbles.
 
I headed back to my new bash spot. Strapped on the FauxPro and hit the ground.

I don't know if I'd really call this run #7, as this was still on the batteries from run #6 (they were only drained to 4.1v before it broke)


As you can see, Still not having any luck. I got about another 2.5 minutes of running in before another tire popped.

A little frustrated again... I checked my tires before going out, I've been pretty proactive looking for tears or rips, with the hope of gluing them before failure. This tire failed right on the seam in the middle of the tread, only about a 1" slit, and it ejected the foam. This is my third tire failure.

I'm not hammering the throttle, and still have the endpoints set below 100%.
I don't think Ill ever get to do a full speed pass.

Are my expectations too high here?
 
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