Senton Hearing a clacking sound coming from my car when launching or turning.

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Yes so my rear diff spur gear was eaten. It was pretty close to death but then added a kraton motor and killed in seconds. Even if I made the mesh tighter the gear was so eaten the same thing would still happen. I was expecting this someday but not so early. So um rear diff is gona ordering both new gear tomorrow. Thanks all for the help.
Anytime bud. Shoot, I forgot that you put a big motor in it. It’s not just the power, it’s also the weight of the thing. Seriously, get one of the 4S differentials and input gears off of jennys and a metal diff yoke, then put them in the rear. Otherwise you may end up destroying the new composite diff fairly quickly if you’re not gentle with it. Also, go ahead and pull apart the front end and service that differential. The front stock ones will last a long time if you stay on top of them.

As I sit here, thinking about it…you may want to double think that motor man. Not only is it hard on the diffs, but also the driveshafts and the rest of the car in general. A big part of the durability of these things is keeping them lightweight. If it was a road car that’s one thing, but I believe yours is a basher. The largest can motor that I will put in my 3s cars is a 3674 in the LWB cars and 3665 in the SWB cars. I went up to 4068 in the 4s vorteks I’m building, but it has v2, 4s driveshafts, metal spur and metal differentials.
 
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Anytime bud. Shoot, I forgot that you put a big motor in it. It’s not just the power, it’s also the weight of the thing. Seriously, get one of the 4S differentials and input gears off of jennys and a metal diff yoke, then put them in the rear. Otherwise you may end up destroying the new composite diff fairly quickly if you’re not gentle with it. Also, go ahead and pull apart the front end and service that differential. The front stock ones will last a long time if you stay on top of them.

As I sit here, thinking about it…you may want to double think that motor man. Not only is it hard on the diffs, but also the driveshafts and the rest of the car in general. A big part of the durability of these things is keeping them lightweight. If it was a road car that’s one thing, but I believe yours is a basher. The largest can motor that I will put in my 3s cars is a 3674 in the LWB cars and 3665 in the SWB cars. I went up to 4068 in the 4s vorteks I’m building, but it has v2, 4s driveshafts, metal spur and metal differentials.
Mine is 2400 kV. I mean it's 232 grams and stock was 289? Where is the heavier part. Also these diffs where also on the kratons and outcasts the less weight of the Senton wouldn't help the diffs with less stress? As I said my diff was 2,5 year olds with no maintenance and ws already eaten a bit. I expected it.
 
Mine is 2400 kV. I mean it's 232 grams and stock was 289? Where is the heavier part. Also these diffs where also on the kratons and outcasts the less weight of the Senton wouldn't help the diffs with less stress? As I said my diff was 2,5 year olds with no maintenance and ws already eaten a bit. I expected it.
I’ve just learned every ounce counts with the 3s cars. Two additional oz with the motor, then add metal diffs etc to handle the power, all while still riding 3s drive shafts. Those are the main weak point and the 3s CVDs are not much better. The 4s cars are different beasts than the 3s. The 4s CVDs and great suspension make a huge difference in durability. Sounds like you have it in hand though…
 
I’ve just learned every ounce counts with the 3s cars. Two additional oz with the motor, then add metal diffs etc to handle the power, all while still riding 3s drive shafts. Those are the main weak point and the 3s CVDs are not much better. The 4s cars are different beasts than the 3s. The 4s CVDs and great suspension make a huge difference in durability. Sounds like you have it in hand though…
The first generation 4s cars had the same diffs. Now they changed them for even more durability with different driveshafts. That doesn't mean the olds ones snap in half easily they just could be better. It's gonna last since I'm using 30c batts. I'm gonna to the shim thing to the front diff and just ordered a new rear one. Will update on how it runs. Later this month.
 
Ah that makes more sense. Yes, can’t over tighten those plastic ones. Otherwise they will strip like the other plastic parts, except worse because they are full plastic, not nylon composite like the arms, diffs etc. I don’t like them on the rear at all because there are weak and flexible, just can’t handle the torque. They are fine for the front though.

But yes, if the gears bind when you’re tightening it down all the way you need to add a shim on the non-ring gear side, or remove the shim from the ring gear side if you have one there. Then, after a dozen runs or so and it’s broken in, remove it. The best thing though is to get one of those cheap metal diff yokes for the back, like I mentioned earlier. The only differentials I have striped in over 2 years are ones on the rear with the plastic yokes 🙄
You seem you know lot's about diffs. So I would like some help. Recently changed both the pinion and ring gear. The 2 gears are very hard to spin. Even the shim. When I start to tighten the screws. It just becomes really hard to spin.
 
You seem you know lot's about diffs. So I would like some help. Recently changed both the pinion and ring gear. The 2 gears are very hard to spin. Even the shim. When I start to tighten the screws. It just becomes really hard to spin.
Ok, first off did you use the gears from the old diff and put them in a new ring gear case? If so, when it’s not in the diff yoke is it difficult to turn the drive shaft mounting posts? Try this, remove it from the diff yoke, press a drive shaft on each side and then turn them in the opposite directions from each other. Let me know if it’s easy or difficult.
 
Ok, first off did you use the gears from the old diff and put them in a new ring gear case? If so, when it’s not in the diff yoke is it difficult to turn the drive shaft mounting posts? Try this, remove it from the diff yoke, press a drive shaft on each side and then turn them in the opposite directions from each other. Let me know if it’s easy or difficult.
I wasn't talking about the inside gears. I've solved tha problem. My bearing was gone. I'm talking about input and crown. People are telling me mesh is too tight but I have the shim.
 
I wasn't talking about the inside gears. I've solved tha problem. My bearing was gone. I'm talking about input and crown. People are telling me mesh is too tight but I have the shim.
You put the shim on the non-ring side I take it? Wouldn’t hurt to try a second shim. Also, did you press the bearings tight against the diff? Another possibility is your diff yoke is warped, that can cause the issues you’re describing. Look over the gears closely where they bind, an anomaly in one or the other could cause it to hang up. Sandpaper folded in half helps with this. Otherwise I don’t know, not having it in my hands to look over makes it hard to trouble shoot. Good luck figuring it out bud.
 
You put the shim on the non-ring side I take it? Wouldn’t hurt to try a second shim. Also, did you press the bearings tight against the diff? Another possibility is your diff yoke is warped, that can cause the issues you’re describing. Look over the gears closely where they bind, an anomaly in one or the other could cause it to hang up. Sandpaper folded in half helps with this. Otherwise I don’t know, not having it in my hands to look over makes it hard to trouble shoot. Good luck figuring it out bud.
Well I don't think I'm gonna figure it out. Found out it spins nice with my old pinion. I've shared on this thread. I've trying adding seems but it's still the same.
 
Well I don't think I'm gonna figure it out. Found out it spins nice with my old pinion. I've shared on this thread. I've trying adding seems but it's still the same.
Then maybe there is something wrong with the new input gear. So either sand down the rough places on it or use the old one.
 
That sounds okay, but I’d a bit on the rough side, like it’s been run for a good amount of time. They are tight with new, but the wheels shouldn’t lock up.
I found out there's probably something wrong with my yoke or bearing on this side. Since the pinion doesn't sit nicely even when not screwed on.
IMG20230124162132.jpg
IMG20230124162114.jpg
IMG20230124162121_BURST000_COVER.jpg
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I found out there's probably something wrong with my yoke or bearing on this side. Since the pinion doesn't sit nicely even when not screwed on.View attachment 272728View attachment 272729View attachment 272730View attachment 272731
The bearing is easy enough to test and replace but it wouldn’t cause the fit issue. I wouldn’t surprise me at all if the plastic diff yoke warped. It looks like yours did in the photo. The below work extremely well to stabilize the diff and are cheaper then hot racing. Really only need it on the rear. Or get a cheap stock plastic yoke.

ARRMA Composite Diff Yoke Set 4x4 https://a.co/d/88CPCQl

RCAWD for Arrma Differential Cover Differential Yoke Set 1-10 3S Mega Vorteks Senton Granite Big Rock Typhon Upgrade Parts https://a.co/d/3qSdeQ4

FFBA445E-5347-440B-A057-5EA8704546F5.png


6E6ACB04-042C-42BC-9C45-8D87F46433B8.png

Oh, do you have the correct side of the diff yoke on? They have a right and left side.
 
The diff only goes in the yolk one way. If you put it in the wrong way, the pinion won't seat correctly.
Also, make sure you don't have two identical yolk halves. I made that mistake once.
One side of the yolk is notched and the other is not.
Judging by the sound and the view in that last pic, you have it installed backwards.

Looks like you have contact here as well... this means you have the yolk backwards.

Screenshot 2023-01-24 at 2.08.33 PM.png
 
The diff only goes in the yolk one way. If you put it in the wrong way, the pinion won't seat correctly.
Also, make sure you don't have two identical yolk halves. I made that mistake once.
One side of the yolk is notched and the other is not.
Judging by the sound and the view in that last pic, you have it installed backwards.

Looks like you have contact here as well... this means you have the yolk backwards.

View attachment 272793
The over half doesn't even fit on. How could I mix these up?
 
The over half doesn't even fit on. How could I mix these up?
That's a good question.
From your pics, that diff is not gonna fit in that yolk. You can see it's making contact with the sides.
Maybe it's the camera angle, but it doesn't look right.
Probably safe to say the yolk is the issue. They're a cheap part, so a replacement yolk is likely in your future.
 
The bearing is easy enough to test and replace but it wouldn’t cause the fit issue. I wouldn’t surprise me at all if the plastic diff yoke warped. It looks like yours did in the photo. The below work extremely well to stabilize the diff and are cheaper then hot racing. Really only need it on the rear. Or get a cheap stock plastic yoke.

ARRMA Composite Diff Yoke Set 4x4 https://a.co/d/88CPCQl

RCAWD for Arrma Differential Cover Differential Yoke Set 1-10 3S Mega Vorteks Senton Granite Big Rock Typhon Upgrade Parts https://a.co/d/3qSdeQ4

View attachment 272733

View attachment 272734
Oh, do you have the correct side of the diff yoke on? They have a right and left side.
Just changed. Went to a place where it catches grip and it spins. But the gear need some force to spin with my hand. Yoke and both gears changed. Maybe I just run it?
 
Just changed. Went to a place where it catches grip and it spins. But the gear need some force to spin with my hand. Yoke and both gears changed. Maybe I just run it?
Could try. See if it improves after a few runs. Watch motor temps closely during the runs.
 
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