Kraton Heat gun issues

[jjl5590]

Hi all,

I've been trying to remove the motor from my Kraton with little success. Couldn't remove it from the sliding mount and couldn't remove the pinion (I think because Arrma use red threadlock...)

So as some people suggested I bought a heat gun to loosen the stuff. I tried using a lighter first but that didn't work. I also bought some good quality MIP hex tools.

I've managed to get both the motor out and the pinion off, but I think it has come at a cost. As I was using the heat gun, the motor, ESC & centre diff became extremely hot (as in too hot to touch). I've always been careful to keep the temperature of the motor and esc cool while in use. I also saw something (I think one of the coils) inside the motor glowing for a second so I stopped using the heat gun.

Have I caused permanent damage to the motor/esc/diff?

In hindsight maybe I should have bought a butane lighter for a more controlled heat...

 

[jondilly1974]

Unless you have a way to direct the heat gun output it won’t get hot enough. You need a hot soldering iron or a direct flame to get hot enough to break these free.

 

[jjl5590]

Unless you have a way to direct the heat gun output it won’t get hot enough. You need a hot soldering iron or a direct flame to get hot enough to break these free.

I used the thin nozzle and the heat gun worked, I got everything off. Tried the soldering iron before and couldn't get it to work.

 

[SentFlying]

mini torch.

 

[jjl5590]

Do you think I've caused any permanent electronic damage?

 

[SentFlying]

If any of the motor windings were glowing I'd open the motor and take a look and checkout the bearings as well. If the windings in the motor were glowing red then the varnish/ lacquer coat on them is likely toast.

Do you think I've caused any permanent electronic damage?

 

[jjl5590]

If any of the motor windings were glowing I'd open the motor and take a look and checkout the bearings as well. If the windings in the motor were glowing red then the varnish/ lacquer coat on them is likely toast.

Will do. Do you think I should check the esc or diff fluid?

 

[SentFlying]

Esc: check the fan and on/off switch wires for melting. If no run it and keep an eye on its temps.

Diff: should be good to go if the housing isn't melted/ warped.

With a mini torch you can pinpoint the heat and be done with heat in less the 5 seconds.

 

[Overpowerrc]

As sent flying said mini torch ftw

 

[SentFlying]

Thanks.

 

[jjl5590]

Esc: check the fan and on/off switch wires for melting. If no run it and keep an eye on its temps.

Diff: should be good to go if the housing isn't melted/ warped.

With a mini torch you can pinpoint the heat and be done with heat in less the 5 seconds.

Everything seems ok so fingers crossed... Diff housing is slightly melted but only slightly lol

Don't know why people recommend a heat gun for this hobby when the parts are so small, think I'll be purchasing this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0875VZ74J/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A33K0ARC3LP4A8&psc=1

 

[Overpowerrc]

Looks nice just keep it on low flame. It’s also very helpful for soldering bullet connectors