Heatsink and fan for castle 2028

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Weapon X

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Anyone here know any good aluminum heatsink including fan for castle 2028? All the one I found online are all cheap plastic, even the castle housing fan.
 
55:36 pinion:spur on a 17lb EXB running belted trencers, no heat issue so far. Yet to open it up, but not even warm on proofing runs.
 
My 2028 run great temp wise. About 140 after a 8s run down to lvc.

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Are these temps the motor or esc?

I have the xlx2 and 800kv. I thought the temps from the logs were for the ESC not the motor. I too and looking for an aluminum heat sink.
I found the aluminum fan mount from power hobby that actually worked really well. You just need to buy like 2 of 30 or 40mm aluminum fan then you are good. These are the one I brought.
Fan mount:https://www.powerhobby.com/phmount04.html
Aluminum fan:https://www.amazon.com/Cooling-1600...s=aluminum+fan+rc+40mm&qid=1620699004&sr=8-11
 
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Also any motor with ribs should never be ran with a heatsink. It has a heatsink built in. You can run fans to blow over the stock ribs if needed, but a heatsink would block air from reaching the built in ribs. 🤘🏻
 
Also any motor with ribs should never be ran with a heatsink. It has a heatsink built in. You can run fans to blow over the stock ribs if needed, but a heatsink would block air from reaching the built in ribs. 🤘🏻
Debatable. I run my V4 Kraton with a yeah racing heatsink and it runs significantly cooler. Heat dissipation is based on surface area, so yes, ribs can help, but a sufficient heatsink with good contact to the ribs can do better to cool the motor than the motor can cool itself.
 
Debatable. I run my V4 Kraton with a yeah racing heatsink and it runs significantly cooler. Heat dissipation is based on surface area, so yes, ribs can help, but a sufficient heatsink with good contact to the ribs can do better to cool the motor than the motor can cool itself.
My experience is the opposite with the 1717. Had the K8S heatsink on it and it got hot. Put the HR 50mm fan mount on it instead and temps dropped. The ribs don’t have a large enough contact patch to transfer the heat to a heatsink and the heatsink blocks the flow of air to the can beneath the ribs. You effectively reduce the cooling capacity by a large amount. Unless someone can explain why that thought process is flawed, it’s the way I’m going to run going forward.
 
My experience is the opposite with the 1717. Had the K8S heatsink on it and it got hot. Put the HR 50mm fan mount on it instead and temps dropped. The ribs don’t have a large enough contact patch to transfer the heat to a heatsink and the heatsink blocks the flow of air to the can beneath the ribs. You effectively reduce the cooling capacity by a large amount. Unless someone can explain why that thought process is flawed, it’s the way I’m going to run going forward.
I'm not saying it is innately flawed, just that it isn't true for all cases. Some heatsink/ribbed motor combinations work, some don't.
 
I'm not saying it is innately flawed, just that it isn't true for all cases. Some heatsink/ribbed motor combinations work, some don't.
What theory do you have about why it would work sometimes and sometimes not? I enjoy the process of the discussion, not calling you out or anything. Hope you don’t take offense. ✌🏻
 
What theory do you have about why it would work sometimes and sometimes not? I enjoy the process of the discussion, not calling you out or anything. Hope you don’t take offense. ✌🏻
None taken. Depending on the heatsink, mostly. I've seen some that are open where they connect to the motor, as in, the ribs of the heatsink don't connect at the base across the middle, only on the ends. Additionally, if the contact patch between the motor ribs and heatsink is adequately conductive (clean, surface area, materials, etc.) The larger fins of the heatsink may draw out enough heat and dissipate it fast enough that it can make up for the lack of airflow around the can itself. Kind of like "heat pipes" on PC cooling systems.
 
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