Just don't try to use any other wheel nuts with these TRX adapters..TRX uses a different thread pitch than the rest of the world.
Hector_Fisher builds a SCT410.3 and stuff
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Hector_Fisher
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Ooops missed the part about the 2.5mm pins that you stated. Is that the same size as the tekno?
Hector_Fisher
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I'm guessing the MT is probably 3mm pins then, cause they were definitely slightly larger. Good to know
Though for $22 bucks, i don't know if this TRX set really saves you a ton when the tekno set is $14-15 per pair. Unless you want proprietary nuts and more specialty hardware.
Actually, it's much cheaper to buy the TRX parts..I'm guessing the MT is probably 3mm pins then, cause they were definitely slightly larger. Good to know
Though for $22 bucks, i don't know if this TRX set really saves you a ton when the tekno set is $14-15 per pair. Unless you want proprietary nuts and more specialty hardware.
The kit like you already have is $62, slim hub and seperate axles comes out to $68..and that's without wheel nuts. The Tekno wheel nuts alone cost nearly what the TRX 17mm kit is complete w/nuts. That's some savings my friend. As much as I dislike TRX, HaHa.
Of course, then I find this..
$12 for all 4!!
I'll let ya know if they work..I just HAD to have em for $12!!
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Hector_Fisher
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I guess it would be different costs for the both of our cases. For me, I already have everything needed for the narrow hex hubs (wheel nuts, set screw and axle, CV rebuild, all come with the 17mm kit), so I'd just need to buy the hex itself. Which is why I said the difference between 22 and 28 isn't much. In your case, needing to buy everything separately: the axles, potentially the CV rebuild kit for the 17mm axles, the hex, and nuts separately... it might make sense to go the traxxas route.Actually, it's much cheaper to buy the TRX parts..
The kit like you already have is $62, slim hub and seperate axles comes out to $68..and that's without wheel nuts. The Tekno wheel nuts alone cost nearly what the TRX 17mm kit is complete w/nuts. That's some savings my friend. As much as I dislike TRX, HaHa.
Of course, then I find this..
View attachment 249826
I'll let ya know if they work..I just HAD to have em for $12!!
Those 17mm hex on the small axles would be awesome! Probably what would have been better to begin with in my case. Alas, here we are LOL
I do like the idea of making a pseudo "super light" buggy some day though! So having the buggy 17mm extensions is nice cause I have that option if I get bored with the SCT.
So I got the Hobbypark adapters, guess somewhere in my mad search I lost track of the stock sct410 stub axle pin size,which are..1.5mm(I think). Obviously 2.5mm doesn't fit,LOL. Spacing is also off for the drive pin hole between the two..
These Hobbypark adapters may work with the EB48SL "short" axles, not sure. One problem I see is the adapters have a stepped hole for the stub, 6mm where the drive pin goes through, then reduces to 5mm at the other end where the wheel nut goes on.. I suppose it's possible to drill out the stock sct410 stub axles to accommodate the 2.5mm pins but then some material would have to be removed from the inside face of the adapters also to allow them to slide onto the stub far enough to get the drive pin hole to line up with the stub..
I know it's workable, but since I currently have 2 good sets of sct tires, not ready to sacrifice the stock stub axles just yet, that would ruin my ability to utilize the tires/wheels (sct) I have currently.
I guess at this point, I'm calling it a bust..
The Tekno parts are likely the best option to convert to 17mm. There's no question in my mind that Tekno's part quality easily rivals anything from Amazonia or even TRX for that matter.
Hector_Fisher
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Wait... I thought we had said the SCT hex drive pins were 2.5mm??? i'll need to throw some calipers on it them tonight or something.
That's a bummer about the hobbypark ones. Just like my HPI Bullet axles, which were something like 4.83mm in diameter, should have known that TRX or TRX compatible stuff would have wonky sizes or designs to make them proprietary. Like seriously, my Bullet axles are 5mm standard in the hub carrier section (cause they have to fit 5mm standard size bearings) and then neck down to 4.83mm for the wheel hex section of the axle.... Why...??????? Coincidentally, finding replacement hex's for the Bullet is also next to impossible (that's my "other project" i mentioned, to get the bullet to 17mm hex).
Thanks for being a beta tester @KnowAir and taking one for the team! Yeah i would stick with the tires that you have.
The question i have is: are the superlight buggy axle CV rebuilds necessary when connecting the stock driveshafts to the superlight buggy axles? I wouldn't think so. Meaning, you should be able to use what you already have in the kit. If so: then if you have spare wheel nuts already, then (like you were saying) you should only need to buy the SL buggy axles and narrow hex. If you need the wheel nuts... Probably best to just find a decent price on the superlight buggy conversion and buy the narrow hex so you have the option to switch back and forth...?
Although now i'm questioning whether I would want to sacrifice that extra 1/2" of width and added stability if I went to the narrow hex!
So, I "think" the EB48SL stub axles use a 2.5mm drive pin..the stock setup for the sct410 uses 1.5mm pins in stub axle. My caliper is analog, and doesn't have fractional mm capability, but I'm pretty confident they're 1.5mm..Wait... I thought we had said the SCT hex drive pins were 2.5mm??? i'll need to throw some calipers on it them tonight or something.
That's a bummer about the hobbypark ones. Just like my HPI Bullet axles, which were something like 4.83mm in diameter, should have known that TRX or TRX compatible stuff would have wonky sizes or designs to make them proprietary. Like seriously, my Bullet axles are 5mm standard in the hub carrier section (cause they have to fit 5mm standard size bearings) and then neck down to 4.83mm for the wheel hex section of the axle.... Why...??????? Coincidentally, finding replacement hex's for the Bullet is also next to impossible (that's my "other project" i mentioned, to get the bullet to 17mm hex).
Thanks for being a beta tester @KnowAir and taking one for the team! Yeah i would stick with the tires that you have.
The question i have is: are the superlight buggy axle CV rebuilds necessary when connecting the stock driveshafts to the superlight buggy axles? I wouldn't think so. Meaning, you should be able to use what you already have in the kit. If so: then if you have spare wheel nuts already, then (like you were saying) you should only need to buy the SL buggy axles and narrow hex. If you need the wheel nuts... Probably best to just find a decent price on the superlight buggy conversion and buy the narrow hex so you have the option to switch back and forth...?
Although now i'm questioning whether I would want to sacrifice that extra 1/2" of width and added stability if I went to the narrow hex!
The EB48SL axles are the same, whether you buy the kit or just the stubs I believe. If I'm right, the drive pins on those should be 2.5mm. In theory, if I buy the EB48SL stubs, I can probably use these Hobbypark adapters..however, I'll have to drill them out to 6mm all the way through. Easy if I had a drill press, unfortunately I don't. I haven't had much luck drilling out aluminum parts without things going off center by hand..
On a side note, the Hobbypark adapters I bought do use the same pitch thread as most any 12mm stub axle, such as Arrma, Tekno,Redcat, ect.. kinda strange since Hobbypark specifically mentions TRA5353X in the listing I'm pretty sure that TRX uses a different pitch on their 12mm axles, such as e revo 2.0,xmaxx,sludge,ect..
Hector_Fisher
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Ah, never got around to measuring those pins.So, I "think" the EB48SL stub axles use a 2.5mm drive pin..the stock setup for the sct410 uses 1.5mm pins in stub axle. My caliper is analog, and doesn't have fractional mm capability, but I'm pretty confident they're 1.5mm..
The EB48SL axles are the same, whether you buy the kit or just the stubs I believe. If I'm right, the drive pins on those should be 2.5mm. In theory, if I buy the EB48SL stubs, I can probably use these Hobbypark adapters..however, I'll have to drill them out to 6mm all the way through. Easy if I had a drill press, unfortunately I don't. I haven't had much luck drilling out aluminum parts without things going off center by hand..
On a side note, the Hobbypark adapters I bought do use the same pitch thread as most any 12mm stub axle, such as Arrma, Tekno,Redcat, ect.. kinda strange since Hobbypark specifically mentions TRA5353X in the listing I'm pretty sure that TRX uses a different pitch on their 12mm axles, such as e revo 2.0,xmaxx,sludge,ect..
my caliper is digital, but it's a cheapo one, so the battery lasts maybe a month NOT being used and then dies
So i use the ruler on the slide most of the time anyway.I'm willing to bet that the EB48SL pins are thicker like you say. They weren't far off the MT410 drive pins, and those were pretty beefy. 2.5mm sounds about right.
It sounds like this section of the hobbypark adapter just necks down to 5mm as some what of a shoulder? If you ground it out of the way, would it affect how the adapter sits on the axle? I would assume that even if the job was sloppy, as long as you left the majority of the 6mm portion intact, that it would work as intended
Coincidentally, the hobbypark adapter are made to be compatible with traxxas and are very far off with the wrong thread pitch?????
I would drill out the Hobbypark adapters to 6mm all the way through, then use the EB48SL stub axles (6mm) with the Hobbypark adapters..Ah, never got around to measuring those pins.
my caliper is digital, but it's a cheapo one, so the battery lasts maybe a month NOT being used and then dies
I'm willing to bet that the EB48SL pins are thicker like you say. They weren't far off the MT410 drive pins, and those were pretty beefy. 2.5mm sounds about right.
It sounds like this section of the hobbypark adapter just necks down to 5mm as some what of a shoulder? If you ground it out of the way, would it affect how the adapter sits on the axle? I would assume that even if the job was sloppy, as long as you left the majority of the 6mm portion intact, that it would work as intended
Coincidentally, the hobbypark adapter are made to be compatible with traxxas and are very far off with the wrong thread pitch?????
Yeah, kinda funny how Hobbypark is referencing TRX on the adapters and the thread pitch is incompatible..luckily they come with wheel nuts. TRX wheel nuts won't work with the Hobbypark adapters..
Hector_Fisher
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Okay, so I'm currently running into an issue with my SCT410.3 and MT410 where I want to get new batteries, but the trays are just too short for alot of the ones I'm looking at. At 148mm normal max length, there are several batteries that are in the 155mm ish range that I'd like to use that won't fit.
Reaching out to my SCT crew: has anyone heard of shaving the rear battery tray lip to get a little more room? Can't imagine any downsides to this since expect for the outer lip of the tray being a little more wobbly. I don't normally have huge rear impacts to where that lip would really come in handy.
Might get desperate and go down this one way street!
Reaching out to my SCT crew: has anyone heard of shaving the rear battery tray lip to get a little more room? Can't imagine any downsides to this since expect for the outer lip of the tray being a little more wobbly. I don't normally have huge rear impacts to where that lip would really come in handy.
Might get desperate and go down this one way street!
Diem Turner
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Just curious, but how many cells are you running? 3S? 4S? Have you considered the new CNHL parallel packs? Their really short. The biggest one of the bunch is the 3S 6200mAh pack at 45 x 55 x 101 mm. The 2S 6200mAh are 37,5 x 44 x 98 mm. And the 4400mAh packs are even a little smaller than that.
https://chinahobbyline.com/de/collections/cnhl-new-items
Just trying a different angle before you cut up your trays
https://chinahobbyline.com/de/collections/cnhl-new-items
Just trying a different angle before you cut up your trays
Hector_Fisher
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I've considered a few options. Hadn't looked at the parallel series (no pun intended), but I'll take a deeper look. I'm looking for 4s lipos (also 6s, but that's another story). My future plan is to run the big rock and tekno sct410 off a single 4s lipo (currently running two 8000mah 2s SMCs since that's all I have, but they're way too heavy together). But I would also like the option to run 8s in the kraton eventually. So it's a bit of a cluster trying to balance lipos for 3 different vehicles and trying to find the unicorn to do it.Just curious, but how many cells are you running? 3S? 4S? Have you considered the new CNHL parallel packs? Their really short. The biggest one of the bunch is the 3S 6200mAh pack at 45 x 55 x 101 mm. The 2S 6200mAh are 37,5 x 44 x 98 mm. And the 4400mAh packs are even a little smaller than that.
https://chinahobbyline.com/de/collections/cnhl-new-items
Just trying a different angle before you cut up your trays
Really, the only challenge is the SCT's 148mm length. Big Rock and kraton are both fine on length. Most of the good options for 5000mah 4s lipos are around 155mm. I could go smaller capacity, but those wouldn't be as well fitted for running in the kraton.
Financially i have to ask, would I rather buy more lipos, or cut out a small lip...? Hence I find myself here with this post LOL
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I must be lucky because all my batteries fit nice and snug in mine 4s and 6s, I can't see an issue with shaving they tray down for extra space.
To be honest I hate the way the battery tray is so close to the outdrive cup on thee center diff, always had bad vibes about the battery sliding into it and it chewing the end of the battery out
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Here is the battery I'm using in mine, 137 x 40
Eh, worth a shot? You might be able fab and install a rear brace attached through the chassis further back to prevent a battery from being able to contact the center diff mount? Like a piece of aluminum angle?
Yeah, I use 2x2s hard case as well as a 6200 4s CNHL in my mt410. Haven't tried 6s though, I'm sure that's a challenge. Unless maybe a 6s brick in say 4000mah?
Hector_Fisher
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Okay, i should say this: finding a 4s lipo that will fit the SCT410 is not hard at all. Finding one that will fit the SCT410, big rock, and kraton and is a good deal, is not an easy task.
That said, i'm leaning towards these.
https://a.co/d/iSAz3rk
They wouldn't be especially potent for the kraton, but for $25 a pop, they would probably be worth the shot.
I'd much rather take advantage of something like the buy one get one for a dollar sale at rcbattery.com. Their 4s 5000mah liperior pro lipos are on sale, so i could get two shipped for about $58ish, and they would be a great option for all three truckz -- IF the length on the SCT410 battery tray wasn't a problem.
That said, i'm leaning towards these.
https://a.co/d/iSAz3rk
They wouldn't be especially potent for the kraton, but for $25 a pop, they would probably be worth the shot.
I'd much rather take advantage of something like the buy one get one for a dollar sale at rcbattery.com. Their 4s 5000mah liperior pro lipos are on sale, so i could get two shipped for about $58ish, and they would be a great option for all three truckz -- IF the length on the SCT410 battery tray wasn't a problem.
4000mah 6s fits like a glove on the MT410 and the kaiju. Perfect size and weight. Been running that as my goto on the kaiju. Just need to get an esc like a max8 or something for the MT410 since it was originally running a 4s 130a spektrum esc. Haven't run it on 6s yet.
Yeah that 6s brick fits good in there. I never liked having the balance leads so close to the spur gear on the Tekno's. It's either close to the spur or dangling out the front of the chassis. I did some rigging on my stretched mt410 to keep the battery leads out of harms way, but the balance leads are still an issue I haven't completely worked out yet.
