Hello I am new to rc and need help with diff swap!!

[chaoticnative]

I have a v3 senton and 2 granites a v2 with the blx from the senton in it cos I blew the diff will have pics the granite came with a sidewinder 3 and a 5700kv motor on 3s it over heats in 2 mins came with a a v1 granite roller I use for parts.
My main question is what type of grease Should I get to put in diff? I’m putting the v1 granite rear diff in it run it till I can upgrade

 

[Engineer]

Use 10K silicone diff fluid inside the diff. On the outside you can use any general purpose grease. Personally I use Red ‘n Tacky.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

5700 kv way to much. Need to stay around 3200

 

[chaoticnative]

Use 10K silicone diff fluid inside the diff. On the outside you can use any general purpose grease. Personally I use Red ‘n Tacky.

Thanks man!!! I was running 2.8 tires on the stock 20t pinion Gonna change to a 15 ones I put that back together

5700 kv way to much. Need to stay around 3200

Oh shoot really?!?! that would explain why the ecu got so hot the wires even got hot from the motor to esc...

 

[fknrad]

Hi!

I recently exploded the rear diff on my V3 Granite, and my suggestion is to upgrade to metal parts for both the front and rear. You can order these parts directly from Arrma, or any Horizon distributor.

Here are the parts you will need if you run a Granite 3S (I don't know for the Senton, but pretty sure you can source them out or maybe they're the same parts?):

AR310772 Composite Diff Case BLX 3S
AR310885 CNC Mtl Crown Gear 37T BLX 3S
AR310886 CNC Mtl Input Gear 13T BLX 3S

If you plan on doing both front and rear, you will need X2 of each of these parts.

You can also get metal diff parts from HR (Hot Racing), but if you do, you will need to remove the slipper nut on the back of the slipper clutch assembly (as far as I know, the slipper nut was introduced in the V3s). The reason behind this is the input shaft on the HR input gear is longer that the OEM one, and if the slipper nut is present, you will not be able to fit the transfer case back into its intended position (will not clip back in + can't get the block battery velcro thing back in place). Morever, and most important, if you take the slipper clutch apart and remove the slipper nut, you will absolutely need to put loctite on the hex screw of the slipper clutch assembly, and adjust it. If this is not done, the slipper clutch will unbind itself with rotation, and it will slip until you kill it. I have also heard some bad stories about the quality of their parts. I will update you if I ever shatter mine as quick as others are stating.

ALSO, do not froget you need loc-tite (blue), and diff fluid. I am on 15K in the rear at the moment. OEM is 10K. You CAN'T buy the diff oil in auto parts store; you will need to go to a hobby shop for that as far as I know.

As for the grease, you need high pressure grease that is silicone based because you are running it in a plastic casing. Petrolemum based products will degrade plastic parts over time because well... Plastic is made out of petrol.

Make sure you clean the old grease in the diff casing as particles of plastic may be still present, and you don't want abrasives in gears that turn this fast.

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

 

[SrC]

Thanks man!!! I was running 2.8 tires on the stock 20t pinion Gonna change to a 15 ones I put that back together

Oh shoot really?!?! that would explain why the ecu got so hot the wires even got hot from the motor to esc...

No joke.

 

[chaoticnative]

Hi!

I recently exploded the rear diff on my V3 Granite, and my suggestion is to upgrade to metal parts for both the front and rear. You can order these parts directly from Arrma, or any Horizon distributor.

Here are the parts you will need if you run a Granite 3S (I don't know for the Senton, but pretty sure you can source them out or maybe they're the same parts?):

AR310772 Composite Diff Case BLX 3S
AR310885 CNC Mtl Crown Gear 37T BLX 3S
AR310886 CNC Mtl Input Gear 13T BLX 3S

If you plan on doing both front and rear, you will need X2 of each of these parts.

You can also get metal diff parts from HR (Hot Racing), but if you do, you will need to remove the slipper nut on the back of the slipper clutch assembly (as far as I know, the slipper nut was introduced in the V3s). The reason behind this is the input shaft on the HR input gear is longer that the OEM one, and if the slipper nut is present, you will not be able to fit the transfer case back into its intended position (will not clip back in + can't get the block battery velcro thing back in place). Morever, and most important, if you take the slipper clutch apart and remove the slipper nut, you will absolutely need to put loctite on the hex screw of the slipper clutch assembly, and adjust it. If this is not done, the slipper clutch will unbind itself with rotation, and it will slip until you kill it. I have also heard some bad stories about the quality of their parts. I will update you if I ever shatter mine as quick as others are stating.

ALSO, do not froget you need loc-tite (blue), and diff fluid. I am on 15K in the rear at the moment. OEM is 10K. You CAN'T buy the diff oil in auto parts store; you will need to go to a hobby shop for that as far as I know.

As for the grease, you need high pressure grease that is silicone based because you are running it in a plastic casing. Petrolemum based products will degrade plastic parts over time because well... Plastic is made out of petrol.

Make sure you clean the old grease in the diff casing as particles of plastic may be still present, and you don't want abrasives in gears that turn this fast.

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

Thanks a bunch I’m gonna go to my local hobby store and see what they have there. I’m gonna clean the case up really good and look into metal parts tonight!!!