Outcast Hello

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Gt rubicon

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Arrma RC's
Hi all, just joined the forum a few days ago. I’m not new to RC. I just haven’t been really active for almost 25 years. I’ve had and raced a lot of cars, I still have my Rc10 graphite from when I was in high school. I’m 42 years old, I have a 12 year old son. I got him into rc when he was 4. It started with a Losi Jr crawler, then a night crawler. I bought one to. We had a ridiculous amount of fun with zero broken parts repairs ect. For his 9th birthday we got him a 2wd slash brushed. He has used the heck out of it and also taken very good care of it. 3 years and we have had very few parts that broke, which is impressive. We have 20 acres, he races the 65 and 85 motocross class. So naturally he drives his rc on our track, he very good with his truck. 3 months ago his best friend put a brushless set up in his 2wd slash, with a Lipo battery. Holy moly it was fast fo the first 10 seconds! Then it broke, totally uncontrollable. So my son realized that there were faster trucks out there, crap that = more money! We saw the arrma outcast at our LHS and started looking into it. Long story short, 2 months later i ordered an outcast for him and a notorious for me. This is his birthday present, October 20th. Work fell through for me today(self employed) so I figured out the new charger and 4s batteries. Then I had to drive my notorious, holy crap! I’m hooked. In the first 5 minutes you couldn’t slap the smile off my face! That thing is unreal! I’m so impressed. Our LHS is an hour away, and they are A holes. I purchased our new stuff online because of their attitude. So my question is being that we live in the sticks, what parts will be good to keep in stock so we can bash and keep the fun going? Thank you in advance for your replies! I’m sure I’m gonna be asking a lot of questions that have already been asked, I’ll need your help to keep two of these going till I learn em!

I can’t wait for his BIrthday! I wanna stop hiding these rigs from him!
 
Welcome! Great intro by the way :D I’d get replacement servos because more often than not, they go tits up pretty fast. Most go with the Savox 1210. I run those in my Kraton and Typhon. You may also want to get a spare pinion from Robinson Racing. My stock pinions have been fine but I’ve heard others have had issues. As for the rest, I’ll let the Outcast guys chime in.
 
Get some good hex drivers. MIP are pricy, but worth it in the long run. Also, be aware that Arrma factory guys LOVE LOVE LOVE Loctite. Any screw that is into metal will be soaked in the stuff. Pinion and motor mount are some of the worst offenders. Be prepared to use lots of heat to get these screws out.

Also get a temp gun. Your motor will 'feel' hot, but safe temp is hotter than you can touch. Get a temp gun, and watch for temps over 170f.

For spares -
Servo. I have a Savox 2270mg in my Kraton. Lots of people like the 1210.

Diff gears, cups, & shims. There is a stick post up on the chassis and drive train forum. Also, maybe grab some extra diff oils. 50k-300k-50k (front-center-rear) is popular, but I run 10k-125k-10k.


Welcome!
 
Id go ahead and get spare wing mounts and 43t crown gears

I've gone through 5 wing mounts and 4 crown gears in the last 7 months
 
Change out that servo mount for sure! Even those cheap ones on ebay for less than$15 will save ur servo? and if you get wing mount get rpm! They will replace them if they break..welcome to the forum
 
Id go ahead and get spare wing mounts and 43t crown gears

I've gone through 5 wing mounts and 4 crown gears in the last 7 months

Personally, if my crown gear has issues, I will swap the diff pinion too. If you think about it, the pinion sees 3x the ware of the crown gear.
 
Good luck with the Outcast and Notorious. You and your son would totally love these beasts.

I was in the hobby for 3 yrs and bought many many 1/10 and smaller scale RCs before I got an Outcast. It completely blew my mind when I got to experience what this 13lbs beast can do.
 
Personally, if my crown gear has issues, I will swap the diff pinion too. If you think about it, the pinion sees 3x the ware of the crown gear.

Wear pattern looks good on the pinions, I just keep chipping the tops off a few of the teeth on the crown. Once I see that, it gets tossed in the broken pile.
Only run 6s and I'm pretty hard on it, so I do complete tear downs about once a month for cleaning and parts inspection. For all 3 diffs I have complete spares, rebuilt, shimmed and ready to swap in. Then I can sit down whenever I get time and go through the 3 diffs that came out.
 
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Wear pattern looks good on the pinions, I just keep chipping the tops off a few of the teeth on the crown. Once I see that, it gets tossed in the broken pile.
Only run 6s and I'm pretty hard on it, so I do complete tear downs about once a month for cleaning and parts inspection. For all 3 diffs I have complete spares, rebuilt, shimmed and ready to swap in. Then I can sit down whenever I get time and go through the 3 diffs that came out.
I've always been told to replace both the crown and pinion gears at the same time otherwise you will keep eating crown gears.
 
All 4 crowns that I've chipped teeth on, were with new pinions. I've since replaced crowns and shimmed the pinion to close up the mesh a bit. So far so good, we'll see how everything looks in couple more weeks.

My sincerest apologies for veering the conversation Gt rubicon, (and where are my manners)....welcome to the forum. :)
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, what is the best method for applying heat to remove the Allen screws.
Most guys stick a soldering iron on the screw head. Once the thread lock is heated you will smell it.
 
Welcome! Great intro by the way :D I’d get replacement servos because more often than not, they go tits up pretty fast. Most go with the Savox 1210. I run those in my Kraton and Typhon. You may also want to get a spare pinion from Robinson Racing. My stock pinions have been fine but I’ve heard others have had issues. As for the rest, I’ll let the Outcast guys chime in.

I wonder if the stock servos aren't really as trash as we all think. So bear with me a second. I had issues with servos because my endpoints werent set and since a RTR Ready To Run I never suspected such an issue could exist. We probably need to add to the sticky posts about starting out about setting endpoints before running the vehicles.

To OP: I recommend ordering Tekno Pinion Gears as the stock ones are known to strip. Be careful with stock wheels, if you overtighten it strips the hubs.

I recommend setting your endpoints which the process is explained in the Arrma manual
 
Setting the end points is important. But the gears are still brass, and wear kind of quick under the big load of MT tires. I had two of the ADs15 servos that wore the gears out. - not just losing teeth on the big final gear, but one of the middle gears with tiny teeth - they are just shark-toothed beyond usability.

I don't think the stock servo is trash, but it is just not the right spec for big MT wheels spinning under 6s power. In the Typhon and Senton, I suspect they would last a lot longer.
 
I wonder if the stock servos aren't really as trash as we all think. So bear with me a second. I had issues with servos because my endpoints werent set and since a RTR Ready To Run I never suspected such an issue could exist. We probably need to add to the sticky posts about starting out about setting endpoints before running the vehicles.

To OP: I recommend ordering Tekno Pinion Gears as the stock ones are known to strip. Be careful with stock wheels, if you overtighten it strips the hubs.

I recommend setting your endpoints which the process is explained in the Arrma manual
Also setting up the failsafe, this is disabled from the factory for some dumb reason...
 
Any suggestions on what threadlock to use when installing a new pinion gear?

I use blue because red can be a real pain in the ass to remove. But red is much more reliable. I say your call.
 
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