Infraction "HELLRZR" Bandwagon Infraction Mega Build

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Short update tonight. Hit the warehouse and got 52mph on 3s. I'd be better with the stock electronics.
Couldn't get a straight pass on 4s then had issues.
Back to the drawing board again.
There is a lot of loose dust there so thatmay be a contributing factor and the steering still needs a little work.
I hope my spool held up!
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Are you using a phone as a speedometer ?
 
Well... HELLRZR got a new pair of shoes! Still contemplating gearing combo going forward. The spool is giving me fits. I'll have something together for Monday but I have no idea what it will be. Plastic spurs are warping in the spool but I do have a steel 45t being delivered tomorrow. Kind of bought it on a whim. Hope the center hole is close!

OMG I just checked the resistance in the front and rear diffs. Definitely have to service the front before I drive it. Way stiffer than the back with the 30k oil. Has to be the culprit for the @ssend trying to pass the front and spinning out. I should've done them at the same time anyway. I'm impatient AF!
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Well... HELLRZR got a new pair of shoes! Still contemplating gearing combo going forward. The spool is giving me fits. I'll have something together for Monday but I have no idea what it will be. Plastic spurs are warping in the spool but I do have a steel 45t being delivered tomorrow. Kind of bought it on a whim. Hope the center hole is close!

OMG I just checked the resistance in the front and rear diffs. Definitely have to service the front before I drive it. Way stiffer than the back with the 30k oil. Has to be the culprit for the @ssend trying to pass the front and spinning out. I should've done them at the same time anyway. I'm impatient AF!View attachment 232809
View attachment 232808
Patience Daniel-San. Patience
 
Curious as to if you're utilizing the dual rates and exponential to help tame the throttle and steering with the amount of power you're sending into the rig
 
Curious as to if you're utilizing the dual rates and exponential to help tame the throttle and steering with the amount of power you're sending into the rig

I haven't had a solid enough setup to try and finetune settings yet. This is my first blx build and am trying things as I go and learning a lot in the process. My goal is a good dependable 3-4s bashing with some 6s speed runs. Eventually want 2 power modules so I can swap out for each
 
Thanks for the tip. They only have about 10 minutes run time on them. Do you prefer them dead level or a little bit one way or the other
I don’t know anybetter yet as this is my first road car so I have them dead level. I don’t like the way it drives though.
 
I don’t know anybetter yet as this is my first road car so I have them dead level. I don’t like the way it drives though.
Ugh… still having some vision and muscle spasm issues. I meant to say that I DO like the way it drives. In fact I love the way it drives with the way with the wheels absolutely level.
 
I checked my camber as @Velodromed suggested and it was way off just by sight. Basically only the two straight lines on the inside of the elevens were making good contact in the front. The rear wasn'tas bad but I adjusted both by sight on the kitchen island. Good contactor all 4 corners now. Thanks again for the tip!
I serviced the front diff with 30k inside and Lucas red and tacky on the outside just like the rear.
Blue TL should be solid in about an hour. Gonna give it a shot with 26/50 gearing. I'm still working on a 44t and 45t spool just waiting for parts.
Hope I can get outbefore the rain comes in!
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More slipper issues last night. No good runs in but I found an awesome new warehouse with concrete and asphalt. 600ftView attachment 233334
What’s the slipper doing? Your first one pretty much melted at the center, right? I’m using the stock slipper (50t spur) on mine without issue for a dozen or more packs so far (parking lot bash and speed runs). I tightened it all the way down, fully compressing the spring. There’s a fine line though…to tight and it squished the spring out of place.
 
Your gear mesh looks very tight on post #19 with the 34t pinion. With Mod1 gears, you want a pretty significant amount of wiggle in there. The looser you make it the less resistance there is, but obviously, there are limits to that....

For the weight of the rig, I wouldn't be too concerned about that. I am running my 1/7 Hobao VTE2 right now that is very heavy on 3s and recently hit 126 mph.

The biggest recommendation I have for you is to work on slowly counting out the throttle pull. Try for an 8-second throttle pull if you have enough room to do that.
 
I'm thinking the torque spun the nut loose and the shaft was spinning without the gear. Or the threads are toasted. Will dig more into it tonight.

Those were 32p gears but looking back I see your point on the mesh. I always used the paper rule but when I set that I used a Home Depot receipt. Yesterday I was using the stock spur with a 26t pinion.
 
I'm thinking the torque spun the nut loose and the shaft was spinning without the gear. Or the threads are toasted. Will dig more into it tonight.

Those were 32p gears but looking back I see your point on the mesh. I always used the paper rule but when I set that I used a Home Depot receipt. Yesterday I was using the stock spur with a 26t pinion.
Gotcha, with 32p that sounds like a good method.

At some point, you will want to go to mod1. HotRacing recently came out with a nice slipper eliminator with mod 1 conversion for the 3s line.

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Gotcha, with 32p that sounds like a good method.

At some point, you will want to go to mod1. HotRacing recently came out with a nice slipper eliminator with mod 1 conversion for the 3s line.

View attachment 233374

I've seen those and have pondered buying one. Only reservation is that I would eventually like to have steel on steel gears for durability. I'll probably get one anyway and finetune with plastic then have a steel spur machined once I get everything worked out.
Thank you so much for the tips! Keep em coming!
Are the Jato gears pre-drilled for this pattern? If so that is a game changer!
 
My question would be is this slipper eliminator made from a stronger material than the stock slipper hub. Even under 3s power the rear of the hub likes to chew itself apart on the input to the differential. 4s or more just shines a light on the issue. Arrma has addressed the issue of the end of the slipper hub mushrooming out with the introduction of the v2 versions of the Outcast and Kraton 4s models with ARRMA part #ARA311157 I've read somewhere that a simple fix is to use the inner race of a hub bearing and dremel out the tower/diff cover/chassis area to allow the bearing race to fit. 3 bucks vs an hour of hair pulling on the bench, personally I'll just buy the sleeve :LOL: Either mod is bound to be great for the mushrooming part, but only time will tell if it's going to hold up on the inside of the hub or not. Also, if you choose to go the route of eliminating the slipper, you may want to look into some better driveshafts. The ujoints in the plastic slider shafts are notorious for spinning out of the knuckles when a slipper is too tight.
Add on, a quick search on ebay found steel spurs as few as 47t on 0.8mod and 39t on mod 1 cut
 
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