Infraction "HELLRZR" Bandwagon Infraction Mega Build

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My question would be is this slipper eliminator made from a stronger material than the stock slipper hub. Even under 3s power the rear of the hub likes to chew itself apart on the input to the differential. 4s or more just shines a light on the issue. Arrma has addressed the issue of the end of the slipper hub mushrooming out with the introduction of the v2 versions of the Outcast and Kraton 4s models with ARRMA part #ARA311157 I've read somewhere that a simple fix is to use the inner race of a hub bearing and dremel out the tower/diff cover/chassis area to allow the bearing race to fit. 3 bucks vs an hour of hair pulling on the bench, personally I'll just buy the sleeve :LOL: Either mod is bound to be great for the mushrooming part, but only time will tell if it's going to hold up on the inside of the hub or not. Also, if you choose to go the route of eliminating the slipper, you may want to look into some better driveshafts. The ujoints in the plastic slider shafts are notorious for spinning out of the knuckles when a slipper is too tight.
Add on, a quick search on ebay found steel spurs as few as 47t on 0.8mod and 39t on mod 1 cut
I named the bearing race sleeve the Velo sleeve because I saw @Velodromed do it and thought it was a great Idea. I had a few bearings laying around.
Nice that Arrma addressed the issue and I will have a few in the toolbox soon.

I picked up a 45t mod 0.8 on Amazon and drilled the center hole out. Need to drill 2 smaller holes for the bolts and I will give that a shot with the 34t pinion.

I really wanted to test the new warehouse with some solid trigger time today so I slapped the 26/50 in for after work.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
I named the bearing race sleeve the Velo sleeve because I saw @Velodromed do it and thought it was a great Idea. I had a few bearings laying around.
Nice that Arrma addressed the issue and I will have a few in the toolbox soon.

I picked up a 45t mod 0.8 on Amazon and drilled the center hole out. Need to drill 2 smaller holes for the bolts and I will give that a shot with the 34t pinion.

I really wanted to test the new warehouse with some solid trigger time today so I slapped the 26/50 in for after work.

Thanks for all the help guys!
Thanks man but that’s not my idea lol. It just works so well I promote it shamelessly. Have fun rippin’ around after work!
My question would be is this slipper eliminator made from a stronger material than the stock slipper hub. Even under 3s power the rear of the hub likes to chew itself apart on the input to the differential. 4s or more just shines a light on the issue. Arrma has addressed the issue of the end of the slipper hub mushrooming out with the introduction of the v2 versions of the Outcast and Kraton 4s models with ARRMA part #ARA311157 I've read somewhere that a simple fix is to use the inner race of a hub bearing and dremel out the tower/diff cover/chassis area to allow the bearing race to fit. 3 bucks vs an hour of hair pulling on the bench, personally I'll just buy the sleeve :LOL: Either mod is bound to be great for the mushrooming part, but only time will tell if it's going to hold up on the inside of the hub or not. Also, if you choose to go the route of eliminating the slipper, you may want to look into some better driveshafts. The ujoints in the plastic slider shafts are notorious for spinning out of the knuckles when a slipper is too tight.
Add on, a quick search on ebay found steel spurs as few as 47t on 0.8mod and 39t on mod 1 cut
The bearing race slips on the slipper hub with out any other modification. Just takes a few seconds with a Dremel to separate the race.
 
I grew up giving credit where credit is due. The only place I have seen this is in your build thread. You may not have been the first but you put it out so idiots like me can follow!

Had a blast this afternoon. Numbers are very underwhelming but I knew that was coming. Got 42 on 3s and 61 on 6s. Can't control the damn thing. The steering needs work still. May have missed a tooth when I upgraded the servo and deleted the SS. More to look at!
This was 3s.

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I grew up giving credit where credit is due. The only place I have seen this is in your build thread. You may not have been the first but you put it out so idiots like me can follow!

Had a blast this afternoon. Numbers are very underwhelming but I knew that was coming. Got 42 on 3s and 61 on 6s. Can't control the damn thing. The steering needs work still. May have missed a tooth when I upgraded the servo and deleted the SS. More to look at!
This was 3s.

View attachment 233635
Thanks buddy, much appreciate the compliment! Yeah mines maxing out at 60mph (3s) now that I changed it around but that’s ok. 120a esc, surpass 3670,3050kv with 24/50 gearing. They are a handful for sure. I put a DX3 remote on it for the gyro and that helps a lot.

Just finished a quick spare parts build over the last few days. Only thing I bought for it was the tires and they were half price so I got several sets. All else I already had. I put in a blx 100 esc and surpass 3670, 2650kv with 20/57 gearing, but eventually I’ll put in a mm2 esc, surpass 4068, 2650kv with a 24 or 26t pinion. Its for parking lot bashing so my wife can join me. Can’t do the speed thing so much anymore since my vision and reflexes are shot it seems 🤷‍♂️.

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Haven't had the chance to do that velo sleeve mod yet. Ok the name sticks haha. Here's a link I stumbled on that should prove helpful as a RC Speed calculator before trial and error out in the field. It seems pretty close judging without gps. My passport should be in this week so I finally know exactly how fast my rigs are going.
 
Good to know the dremel is only needed for separation of the bearing
I just set the bearing on a socket slightly larger than the inner race and pop it with a rubber mallet. 2 seconds and done.
Thanks buddy, much appreciate the compliment! Yeah mines maxing out at 60mph (3s) now that I changed it around but that’s ok. 120a esc, surpass 3670,3050kv with 24/50 gearing. They are a handful for sure. I put a DX3 remote on it for the gyro and that helps a lot.

Just finished a quick spare parts build over the last few days. Only thing I bought for it was the tires and they were half price so I got several sets. All else I already had. I put in a blx 100 esc and surpass 3670, 2650kv with 20/57 gearing, but eventually I’ll put in a mm2 esc, surpass 4068, 2650kv with a 24 or 26t pinion. Its for parking lot bashing so my wife can join me. Can’t do the speed thing so much anymore since my vision and reflexes are shot it seems 🤷‍♂️.

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Typhon looks great. Should be a lot of fun.
I have aRadiolink with gyro just haven't figured out how to use it yet!
 
I just set the bearing on a socket slightly larger than the inner race and pop it with a rubber mallet. 2 seconds and done.

Typhon looks great. Should be a lot of fun.
I have aRadiolink with gyro just haven't figured out how to use it yet!
That’s a good idea, popping the bearing out like that. Think I’ll try it next time…even got a rubber mallet. Yeah try out the gyro. It doesn’t take much, maybe 20% or so to help with the twitchy.

Thanks man, I’ll test drive it later if I can function decent. The 30+ trigger point injections hurt like hell but I was able to sleep well and didn’t wake in excruciating pain for once 😂
 
So I just took the transmission out of my Typhon and put on a bearing, oddly enough I didn't need to separate the bearing to make it fit. There's plenty of gap in it to allow for if it were to come apart that it won't bind. By the math, this should be between 75 and 80 mph. o_O
And yes... definitely put a gyro to work on HELLRZR doing that with my infraction using the 6200 and dx3 combo has made it so much fun
 
So I just took the transmission out of my Typhon and put on a bearing, oddly enough I didn't need to separate the bearing to make it fit. There's plenty of gap in it to allow for if it were to come apart that it won't bind. By the math, this should be between 75 and 80 mph. o_O
And yes... definitely put a gyro to work on HELLRZR doing that with my infraction using the 6200 and dx3 combo has made it so much fun
I tried that was one of my cars originally. It caused issues. Clearance isnt the best back there (that’s what she said?).
 
I tried that was one of my cars originally. It caused issues. Clearance isnt the best back there (that’s what she said?).
Was it an immediate issue or an over time issue?

My poor old 2HO's couldn't handle 4s 3150kv 23t/57t for long but dang it was fun while it lasted
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Was it an immediate issue or an over time issue?

My poor old 2HO's couldn't handle 4s 3150kv 23t/57t for long but dang it was fun while it lastedView attachment 233685
Over time. It wore the plastics and finally chewed up inside the hub. Then I saw someone else cut the race out near a year back so I started doing that and haven’t had those issues mostly. I do have to make sure to click the motor module in real good because otherwise it’ll still damage inside the hub and cause it to strip.

I think keeping the bearing whole impeded it from fully clicking in at times. Even with just the race I’ve notice the ‘click’ doesn’t sound right occasionally so I’ll try again until it does. Haven’t killed a hub since doing that.
 
Ok. Few things to update. My steering is not returning to center so I'm going to try and get that worked out and hopefully run it later.

I bought a small bike GPS for speed tracking that I am going to mount behind the cab.

I have two spools built and ready to test. Both 32p, one is 44t plastic Kimbrough gear and the other is a 45t steel spur from Amazon.

Both fans on my Surpass heatsink fan combo quit working. The new one should be here today. I really liked it when it worked so hopefully this one will last.
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Tried a different servo and same issue. Must have added tension somewhere between servicing the front diff and adjusting the tie rods. Starting to get frustrated 😠 but will figure it out eventually! My wife wants the kitchen island back and I'm tired of having a mess!
I did get the speedometer installed and it looks pretty cool. Will post a picture later
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I bet u have the link on the horn too tight on either side, horn side or link side.. might look into swapping the turnbuckle bushings for bearings, and buy the gpm turnbuckle kit, also a better saver would help!!
Making me want to buy a scratch and dent!! 🤣
 
I bet u have the link on the horn too tight on either side, horn side or link side.. might look into swapping the turnbuckle bushings for bearings, and buy the gpm turnbuckle kit, also a better saver would help!!
Making me want to buy a scratch and dent!! 🤣
You totally should before they're gone. I've picked up 3 so far, 2 infractions and a senton
 
I bet u have the link on the horn too tight on either side, horn side or link side.. might look into swapping the turnbuckle bushings for bearings, and buy the gpm turnbuckle kit, also a better saver would help!!
Making me want to buy a scratch and dent!! 🤣
Buy one! They are a 20 spot cheaper now then when I bought mine. It's been a blast so far! Have a lot of updates I haven't had time to type out yet.
It lifts off @ 65mph and flips over backward! Parts ordered to help with that!🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁
 
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