Mojave Help, advice needed Mojave exb , rear axles, wheel bearings, cvd's for the rear?

[Motosickness]

So, I finally got a Mojave exb. I bought in in November, and put it together last month with the max 6 setup. I have ran it 4 times now, and have had a few little issues. Problem#1 , pic #3 shows how close it gets to the edge. The left rear dog bone popped out. So I set droop to 0, flat during that run and it still popped out repeatedly. After examining it later, determined that I needed to add a o-ring or rubber spacer on the outdrive side to hold the axle in towards the diff cup more. Why are the axles Soo short? Plenty of room at suspension limits for a longer axle. Hmm so, New vehicle, 2 runs on it. I didn't want to use o-rings, from my experience they don't last long in something driven hard, and they come out/go away at the most inoportune moments. When I took it apart, the wheel bearings on that side were done, crunchy ,that's problem # 2. I was running in really dry super dusty conditions #3 was when I got the front supposedly hardened cvd's from rcawd because they were the quickest available and tried to get the rear carriers apart, needless to say they didn't come apart, at our shop, or at the hobby store, have them soaking in solvent currently, not stripped out yet. I will get them apart, eventually. So new front cvd's for the rear, new rear wheel bearings, new hub/bearing carriers and some bonus +2 hubs added all around. So now, prob #4 one run on the new supposedly hardened axles, and they are done. Pic # 2 The guys at the hobby store didn't think the cvd setup would last long in the rear w my setup, but I gave it a try, and the cvd part is fine, well they lasted one 7600 120c pack at least, but the diff side pins in the axles are almost completely worn away pic#2 . So, my question is, with longevity and reliability in mind , what is the best fix , anyone else have experience w hardened cvd's, are gpm ones better, anybody make better ones ? Stock cvd's better? Should I just go back to stock dogbones and add o-rings, and then- Is it the wheel bearings suck and my new ones should last longer with the original setup and o-rings? I thought it may be a dust issue w the bearings so the cvd's would of fixed that. Haven't had this issue w my other 6s rigs for some reason. Driven same place, same conditions. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[SrC]

I have never had those issues with my Mojave. I only run 6s FWIW.
I believe that your problem # 2 (blown out BB's) caused Problem #1 ( dog bone coming out)
I do run Scortched RC inner fenders, and this keeps Very much dirt out. Highly recommended.
I prefer the stocker Mojo wheels and tires FWIW. Yet many change them out to other stuff. Never fits correct IMHO.
Method RC tires have a direct Mojo replacement tire. And they are even Belted FWIW.
I would rebuild both L+R Hubs with all new BB's, and start over. The stocker BB's are not all that. Buy the whole set for the Mojo. Think Fasteddy's or TRBRC BB's for replacements. Don't buy stocker BB's.
The larger inner Hub BB's do wear wear out the most, the fastest . Because of their undersized dimensions. Keeping BB's clean and lubed is key here. Don't use WD40 anywhere near BB's. I don't at least. When the BB's get loose and sloppy from dirt and wear, the whole axel driveline alignment gets sloppy and compromised. Axel and all.
If running 8s lipos, The power demand on the whole drivetrain increases exponentially. Wear is much more compared to 6s running. More maintenance and attention is normally required.
Food for thought

>>>>>Also, Make sure your rear Camber is set to Zero. ( Rear tires being perfectly vertically straight up) If not, this will also cause the Dog bone to pop out.
Droop is important. You said you adjusted it though. Make sure Left and Right Droop is exactly equal. Measure each shock from Eye to eye so they are equal to confirm this. Rear Arms level when the rig is at rest on its wheels with it's FULL running weight ( Lipo and Body installed) Adjusting Shock preload as needed. ( at the shock spring collars) Very important!!!

>>>You can try placing small springs inside the outer hub axels before inserting the dog bone. This will push the dog bone in toward the Diff out drive. I have done this before with my Kraton with good results.. It works way better than O-rings of any type. I got a whole assorted SS spring set from The Home Depot.
Some more ideas.
Good luck.


Edited.

 

[Motosickness]

Thanks, Src. I will double check my setup when I get time, I had the camber set to help w traction roll, as far in as I could. Honestly a lil flustered w this one. Trying to fig out what size pins for the axles currently.

 

[Motosickness]

I like the spring idea, I probably need to calm down, take a step back and take my time with this one a lil more. I was stoked to get one finally. Took my time w the setup initially, checked diffs, screws ,setup, drove 1 time, replaced shock oil, springs, sway bars, was happy with the handling now, was smiling big w it then I had one issue after the other. Will update my findings ,fixings here later.

 

[Da Spanky]

I had the same issue with mine on the rear dog bones, would tear up the cup, pop the dog bone out, I first used short pieces of nitro fuel line to keep the dog bones from moveing in and out so much, but gave up and ordered a set of nice CVD's from GPM, haven't had a problem sense.

 

[Motosickness]

1st bash today with the gpm front Mojave axles in the rear of my Exb. They hung out great, no issues, amazing one pack through the Rcawd ones and they were done, the gpm I don't even see any wear , yet. I haven't had time to try and replace the pins that were junk, I imagine the Mugen pins should last good too.