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HELP! Can't loosen the nut inside a brand new wheel hub!

Notorious J

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I have a brand new, never run, Notorious. I was doing some pre-run set up work, and came across a real problem that I can't figure out. To get the 17mm hex hub off, you need to loosen the Black inner nut and remove the little pin that slides through the assembly. That black screw seems welded on! I used a 17mm wrench to hold the hub, set an Allen key into the center of the nut, but there is no way it's backing off. Is it reverse threaded? I put almost enough force on the Allen key to snap it, then decided to give up. I'm pretty experienced with basic rc mechanics, but this just makes no sense. Do they use red Loctite on those nuts? Like I said, it's brand new, and I was just tinkering with pillow ball adjustment before the maiden voyage. Hopefully, I'm just having a newb moment, and someone will tell me what I'm doing wrong. Fyi, already installed new Hot racing aluminum chassis brace, and aluminum servo mount is on order. Thanks in advance.
 

Tomberland

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Do they use red Loctite on those nuts?
Jep! They probably used a large amount of high strength (RED) loctite on there. That's why you can't get it off. The solution is a simple one fortunately: heat the little set screw with a small blow torch like a creme Brulee torch or something like that. Or with a soldering iron. The loctite will come loose and you can finally loosen the inner set screw without much force.

Remember this tip when you have to remove the stock pinion gear from the motor shaft at some point. This will also be very hard (if not impossible) without heating it up first.

Good luck! (y)
 

Notorious J

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Jep! They probably used a large amount of high strength (RED) loctite on there. That's why you can't get it off. The solution is a simple one fortunately: heat the little set screw with a small blow torch like a creme Brulee torch or something like that. Or with a soldering iron. The loctite will come loose and you can finally loosen the inner set screw without much force.

Remember this tip when you have to remove the stock pinion gear from the motor shaft at some point. This will also be very hard (if not impossible) without heating it up first.

Good luck! (y)
Thanks Tomberland! I figured as much, but it was late and my brain was starting to fall asleep. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't reverse threaded before I moved on. I managed to take off the assembly as a whole unit, so I could get a feel for the pillow ball adjustments, so for now, I can just leave the nut secured, and know what to do when the time comes to "have" to take it or the pinion gear, apart. I'm really impressed with the overall build quality of the unit. Gonna be a shame to have to start taking it apart one day.
 

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You should be able to adjust the pillow balls without removing the wheels. Just put the long end of an allen wrench through the wheel.
 

Notorious J

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You should be able to adjust the pillow balls without removing the wheels. Just put the long end of an allen wrench through the wheel.
Thanks Krathead. It was more of a discovery operation, so I could get my feet wet with an Arrma build. So many good tips and tricks that can be done before hand, so I'm trying a few things before the first run. I promised myself I wouldn't make the same mistakes that I did with my last rc vehicle, so I'm taking the time to learn the ins and outs of the Arrma. Great forum and thanks for replying.
 

Arrma15T 1968

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I was wondering if anyone out there has tips on building a typhon from scratch.I have the chassis plate on order and cant wait to start picking up parts of my choice.
 

joostin420

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Have a NIB typhon v3 with hr servo mount in the classifieds :D

I had the same problem with a stuck grub screw in one wheel hub cup/shaft. Stripped it and had to buy another right at the start of my senton build... was brand-new also.
 
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Notorious J

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Have a NIB typhon v3 with hr servo mount in the classifieds :D

I had the same problem with a stuck grub screw in one wheel hub cup/shaft. Stripped it and had to buy another right at the start of my senton build... was brand-new also.
I left the bolts in the hub alone for now, but ended up using the soldering iron to heat the screws that attach the motor mount to the chassis. Good news is, Arrma is putting these trucks together really well. It's a shame taking them apart.
 

cwr5033

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I had this exact problem on my new Kraton and only resolved it yesterday. First try with soldering iron I broke the head off my screw driver. Sheered right off. Ordered a new set on Amazon, this time it didn't break but it twisted and bent the hell out of it, BUT I did manage to get the grub screw loose. I'm returning the bent driver to Amazon and ordering a set of MIP drivers! Dam there was a lot of loctite on there for something that can't even come lose when the tire is onthe car. I thought I was going to have to buy new cvd and all the rest just because I couldn't get it loose. Happy now that I was able to change out those bearings.
 

Notorious J

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I had this exact problem on my new Kraton and only resolved it yesterday. First try with soldering iron I broke the head off my screw driver. Sheered right off. Ordered a new set on Amazon, this time it didn't break but it twisted and bent the hell out of it, BUT I did manage to get the grub screw loose. I'm returning the bent driver to Amazon and ordering a set of MIP drivers! Dam there was a lot of loctite on there for something that can't even come lose when the tire is onthe car. I thought I was going to have to buy new cvd and all the rest just because I couldn't get it loose. Happy now that I was able to change out those bearings.
Enough heat with the iron got the job done. I replaced all my wheel bearings, so it was a must. Two irons for about 45 seconds, the one good crank with my driver. Repeated the same for all 4 and replaced using blue loctite
 

Dutch213

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Yeah I just started using heat cause I kept breaking hexes on rear cup screws and it makes it 10x easier. That arrma loctite is no joke.
 
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