Help! How to refill shocks with no bleeder hole?

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Fam, Need a little help

I know the correct way to refill shocks with a bleeder hole like the Typhon 6S shocks. I am lost on the Losi DB Pro shocks that have no bleeder hole but does have a bladder inside, a very small bladder.

What I have been doing and videos vary or limited on ones with no bleeder hole:

  1. With an empty cleaned shock, I have the piston full extended
  2. I fill with shock oil
  3. I then pump that slowly up/down and twist the piston to release air
  4. With the piston back at full extension, I leave it on my shock stand
  5. I may top off the oil to the top if there is more needed to where it is at the top but not spilling over
  6. Wait as long as it takes for all air bubbles to leave
  7. >>>> here is where I am lost <<<<<
  8. I put the cap on and slowly begin to close it but leave a 1-2mm gap so not fully closed
  9. I then slowly begin to compress the piston until it is touching the shock body
  10. I fully close the cap while holding the piston in full compressed position
  11. Clean off the little oil that came out

What I have is very different from the Typhon shocks. Typhon I can push the piston in but it might come out a little but will stay close to full compression. With the same steps above with the Losi (no bleeder hole), the piston will push back out and slowly move to almost fully extended. On the steps above, I cannot push it fully compressed it is like the bladder is pushing it away or back out.

This could be correct for this shock. My question is am I doing this right or wrong because YouTube has just confused the hell out of me?

Thx

@razorrc @SrC
 
Fam, Need a little help

I know the correct way to refill shocks with a bleeder hole like the Typhon 6S shocks. I am lost on the Losi DB Pro shocks that have no bleeder hole but does have a bladder inside, a very small bladder.

What I have been doing and videos vary or limited on ones with no bleeder hole:

  1. With an empty cleaned shock, I have the piston full extended
  2. I fill with shock oil
  3. I then pump that slowly up/down and twist the piston to release air
  4. With the piston back at full extension, I leave it on my shock stand
  5. I may top off the oil to the top if there is more needed to where it is at the top but not spilling over
  6. Wait as long as it takes for all air bubbles to leave
  7. >>>> here is where I am lost <<<<<
  8. I put the cap on and slowly begin to close it but leave a 1-2mm gap so not fully closed
  9. I then slowly begin to compress the piston until it is touching the shock body
  10. I fully close the cap while holding the piston in full compressed position
  11. Clean off the little oil that came out

What I have is very different from the Typhon shocks. Typhon I can push the piston in but it might come out a little but will stay close to full compression. With the same steps above with the Losi (no bleeder hole), the piston will push back out and slowly move to almost fully extended. On the steps above, I cannot push it fully compressed it is like the bladder is pushing it away or back out.

This could be correct for this shock. My question is am I doing this right or wrong because YouTube has just confused the hell out of me?

Thx

@razorrc @SrC
No idea, but hope you get it figured out! I'm pretty sure the reason you can't push it all the way in is because there is air in there. Air can compress, but liquid can't. The liquid can move through the holes in the piston, but the air can't as easily. IDK if this helps, but...
 
No idea, but hope you get it figured out! I'm pretty sure the reason you can't push it all the way in is because there is air in there. Air can compress, but liquid can't. The liquid can move through the holes in the piston, but the air can't as easily. IDK if this helps, but...

I hope so too...

It's confusing at the point I put on the cap there is no air. I am slow to close it but I do understand with the Typhon there is a bleeder hole where this is none on the Losi cap. I'm lost that I know :)

Thx for the reply glad we have this forum to seek help.
 
I hope so too...

It's confusing at the point I put on the cap there is no air. I am slow to close it but I do understand with the Typhon there is a bleeder hole where this is none on the Losi cap. I'm lost that I know :)

Thx for the reply glad we have this forum to seek help.
Maybe some pictures would help?? I'm trying to imagine the shocks lol.
You probably already saw this, but just in case...
 
Maybe some pictures would help?? I'm trying to imagine the shocks lol.
You probably already saw this, but just in case...
Thx

I have watched a lot and a lot with him in some....but missed this video in particular....helpful!!
 
Fam, Need a little help

I know the correct way to refill shocks with a bleeder hole like the Typhon 6S shocks. I am lost on the Losi DB Pro shocks that have no bleeder hole but does have a bladder inside, a very small bladder.

What I have been doing and videos vary or limited on ones with no bleeder hole:

  1. With an empty cleaned shock, I have the piston full extended
  2. I fill with shock oil
  3. I then pump that slowly up/down and twist the piston to release air
  4. With the piston back at full extension, I leave it on my shock stand
  5. I may top off the oil to the top if there is more needed to where it is at the top but not spilling over
  6. Wait as long as it takes for all air bubbles to leave
  7. >>>> here is where I am lost <<<<<
  8. I put the cap on and slowly begin to close it but leave a 1-2mm gap so not fully closed
  9. I then slowly begin to compress the piston until it is touching the shock body
  10. I fully close the cap while holding the piston in full compressed position
  11. Clean off the little oil that came out

What I have is very different from the Typhon shocks. Typhon I can push the piston in but it might come out a little but will stay close to full compression. With the same steps above with the Losi (no bleeder hole), the piston will push back out and slowly move to almost fully extended. On the steps above, I cannot push it fully compressed it is like the bladder is pushing it away or back out.

This could be correct for this shock. My question is am I doing this right or wrong because YouTube has just confused the hell out of me?

Thx

@razorrc @SrC

These sound like the proper steps, at least that is how my Team Associated RC10B2 shocks are built except those directions say to tilt the shock to a 45* angle when you are putting the cap on, it just sounds like you need to bleed more oil out.
 
Personally I’d get rid of those stupid bladders and run o-rings/emulsion style. Yes I have a video on that.

Then just push in the rod to the rebound you would like (halfway or fully in), fill to the top and screw on the cap. That’s it.
 
These sound like the proper steps, at least that is how my Team Associated RC10B2 shocks are built except those directions say to tilt the shock to a 45* angle when you are putting the cap on, it just sounds like you need to bleed more oil out.

Bingo....that was it too much oil as @Ginglehopper hoper showed me to use the bladder correctly. Thx

Personally I’d get rid of those stupid bladders and run o-rings/emulsion style. Yes I have a video on that.

Then just push in the rod to the rebound you would like (halfway or fully in), fill to the top and screw on the cap. That’s it.

Spot on....if I do more with this Losi I will go that route.... I have seen yours and Duperhash show the emulsion style from M2C and just other shocks in general. Thx (y)
 
Emulsion shocks are more plush IMHO. Just a bit harder to match shock to shock. Emulsion shocks were around before Bladder types.
Some bladder type shocks place the bladder in the cap first. Some place the bladder on the shock body then screw on the cap. So bleeding can be different. Shocks are tricky.
I would try to source upgrade bleeder shock caps if available for the Losi's. Bleeding can be difficult otherwise.
I like my shocks to be perfectly neutral. Where the piston/shaft remains where ever it is positioned. That indicates no excess oil or air.
I use a shock vacuum pump to extract air from my filled and opened shocks.
PM me for any questions. :)

EDIT: Badder shocks can be a nuisance to bleed if there is even the slightest amount of air in the oil. Bladder shock bodies need to be completely free of air. Emulsion shock oil mixes with air and are more forgiving if there is air in the oil. Air you cant even see.
 
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Emulsion shocks are more plush IMHO. Just a bit harder to match shock to shock. Emulsion shocks were around before Bladder types.
Some bladder type shocks place the bladder in the cap first. Some place the bladder on the shock body then screw on the cap. So bleeding can be different. Shocks are tricky.
I would try to source upgrade bleeder shock caps if available for the Losi's. Bleeding can be difficult otherwise.
I like my shocks to be perfectly neutral. Where the piston/shaft remains where ever it is positioned. That indicates no excess oil or air.
I use a shock vacuum pump to extract air from my filled and opened shocks.
PM me for any questions. :)

EDIT: Badder shocks can be a nuisance to bleed if there is even the slightest amount of air in the oil. Bladder shock bodies need to be completely free of air. Emulsion shock oil mixes with air and are more forgiving if there is air in the oil. Air you cant even see.
The first time I rebuilt the shocks on my RC10B2 I was puzzled as to how to bleed them as I had only ever used shocks with bladders prior to owning that car. Found a nice guide on the internets.
 
Emulsion shocks are more plush IMHO. Just a bit harder to match shock to shock. Emulsion shocks were around before Bladder types.
Some bladder type shocks place the bladder in the cap first. Some place the bladder on the shock body then screw on the cap. So bleeding can be different. Shocks are tricky.
I would try to source upgrade bleeder shock caps if available for the Losi's. Bleeding can be difficult otherwise.
I like my shocks to be perfectly neutral. Where the piston/shaft remains where ever it is positioned. That indicates no excess oil or air.
I use a shock vacuum pump to extract air from my filled and opened shocks.
PM me for any questions. :)

EDIT: Badder shocks can be a nuisance to bleed if there is even the slightest amount of air in the oil. Bladder shock bodies need to be completely free of air. Emulsion shock oil mixes with air and are more forgiving if there is air in the oil. Air you cant even see.
Thx Buddy....I will do, thx (y)
 
Fam, Need a little help

I know the correct way to refill shocks with a bleeder hole like the Typhon 6S shocks. I am lost on the Losi DB Pro shocks that have no bleeder hole but does have a bladder inside, a very small bladder.

What I have been doing and videos vary or limited on ones with no bleeder hole:

  1. With an empty cleaned shock, I have the piston full extended
  2. I fill with shock oil
  3. I then pump that slowly up/down and twist the piston to release air
  4. With the piston back at full extension, I leave it on my shock stand
  5. I may top off the oil to the top if there is more needed to where it is at the top but not spilling over
  6. Wait as long as it takes for all air bubbles to leave
  7. >>>> here is where I am lost <<<<<
  8. I put the cap on and slowly begin to close it but leave a 1-2mm gap so not fully closed
  9. I then slowly begin to compress the piston until it is touching the shock body
  10. I fully close the cap while holding the piston in full compressed position
  11. Clean off the little oil that came out

What I have is very different from the Typhon shocks. Typhon I can push the piston in but it might come out a little but will stay close to full compression. With the same steps above with the Losi (no bleeder hole), the piston will push back out and slowly move to almost fully extended. On the steps above, I cannot push it fully compressed it is like the bladder is pushing it away or back out.

This could be correct for this shock. My question is am I doing this right or wrong because YouTube has just confused the hell out of me?

Thx

@razorrc @SrC
I'm not sure this will make it to you, but I hope It does as I'm having the same exact issue. I'm getting it close, but no cigar yet. If you figured it out, I'd love to know what you did.
 
With bladders I will compress the shock first, fill, then place the bladder on the shock body expelling any excess oil, then cap it off. That is one way. You can also place the bladder in the cap proper, compress the piston, fill to top and hold the shock at an angle while screwing on the cap very slowly, Air and excess oil will push out the threads, holding the piston compressed. Doing this very slowly. Much is trial and error what works for you. You should not hear any air inside a bladder type shock, done correctly. It should not hydro lock either. Then you have too much oil. Bleed again.
 
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