Kraton HELP - Kraton V3 bad steering

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buy as new as you can afford. There is nothing wrong with the V3 and a lot of the parts you will want to upgrade are the same. One train of thought is to save the money and spend the difference in parts/batteries/etc. If you land a jump badly and break an a-arm, it will be the same a-arm regardless if it is V3 or V4. Personally I like to buy the latest model that is on offer which goes for everything, not just RC
 
I can always count on the Notorious to offer sound council. Not on just undergarments (pantyhose, lol). Quick question for you. I'm not great at working on RC cars yet, Im getting there but takes me forever to fix them. With that said I like the V4 changes that makes things easier but looks like the v3's can be found on pretty good sales right now. Seeing $399. Not bad. I'm torn between 540 for a v4 or 399 for a v3. Your thoughts? The way I see it is it costs $100 to update to a v4 from a v3. So basically it ends up being a $50 dollar saving. The time it would take me to update it to a v4 would cost me way more than $50 in time and frustration alone. Haha.
Thanks for the vote of confidence and great question. At $399, the argument has definitely swayed in favor of the old model. The only two things I want (and now have) are the new motor mount with easier access to the center dif, and the no pop off balls for the inner steering links. To be fair, if you don't plan on playing around with the motor pinion much, the stock V3 motor mount still does a great job. I have mine in now, as my adjustable Hot Racing mount was toast when I stripped one of the screws while trying to remove it. The new servo saver is garbage, the Spektrum radio is a downgrade, and I'm not convinced that the design of the new end to end brace isn't going to hold up well. You can easily make a custom t2t if you want, but the best investment would be for new aluminum chassis braces and even better still, a new thicker chassis. So with the money you save, you can get the motor mount and ball ends from Jennys for about $50, and still have money left over to put towards the aluminum chassis braces and new chassis. This is all opinion, and I'm sure others might differ. As far as working on the truck, only the new motor mount will speed up the time it takes you. Everything else actually makes it harder to work on and adjust. Once you've done things once or twice, it'll seem like nothing, as the design is made to be very easy to work on from the get go.
 
I had the E-Revo and got tired of repairing it every. single. run. You made the right choice with Arrma. I was fortunate to get a buyer for the Revo but lost money vs stock and it was well upgraded (new servos, limiting straps, rear suspension etc) and in very good condition. Since then, I purchased 3 more 6s Arrma trucks and haven't looked back.
It's frustrating at first no doubt. But once you gain the confidence in Arrma strong you'll be hooked. And once you get her fixed up with a new servo (thankfully one rather than two,) send it and feel the rush of knowing true durability!!
 
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Thanks for the vote of confidence and great question. At $399, the argument has definitely swayed in favor of the old model. The only two things I want (and now have) are the new motor mount with easier access to the center dif, and the no pop off balls for the inner steering links. To be fair, if you don't plan on playing around with the motor pinion much, the stock V3 motor mount still does a great job. I have mine in now, as my adjustable Hot Racing mount was toast when I stripped one of the screws while trying to remove it. The new servo saver is garbage, the Spektrum radio is a downgrade, and I'm not convinced that the design of the new end to end brace isn't going to hold up well. You can easily make a custom t2t if you want, but the best investment would be for new aluminum chassis braces and even better still, a new thicker chassis. So with the money you save, you can get the motor mount and ball ends from Jennys for about $50, and still have money left over to put towards the aluminum chassis braces and new chassis. This is all opinion, and I'm sure others might differ. As far as working on the truck, only the new motor mount will speed up the time it takes you. Everything else actually makes it harder to work on and adjust. Once you've done things once or twice, it'll seem like nothing, as the design is made to be very easy to work on from the get go.
Damn, I had myself convinced to just eventually get a new v4 but you make valid points. I didn't consider I may not need or want all the new addons. So of all the new addons, would you say the motor mount and the "no pop off balls" lmao, hey you said it, are the closest to must have upgrades?
 
Damn, I had myself convinced to just eventually get a new v4 but you make valid points. I didn't consider I may not need or want all the new addons. So of all the new addons, would you say the motor mount and the "no pop off balls" lmao, hey you said it, are the closest to must have upgrades?
Alright, I get it. Whatever you call them :D, and yes, it's these two parts that I think stand out. The end to end brace seems like a good idea too, and I'm on the fence about that one, but I run with some home made t2t's, and they are working out fine.
 

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Alright, I get it. Whatever you call them :D, and yes, it's these two parts that I think stand out. The end to end brace seems like a good idea too, and I'm on the fence about that one, but I run with some home made t2t's, and they are working out fine.

Agreed Noto. If I wanted to buy a T2T and modify the internal roll cage like @Primarrma did. I need the roll cage as I think I land on the lid more than my wheels...I think my kids are starting to not believe me when I say “I did that on purpose to show you what not to do!”
 
Alright, I get it. Whatever you call them :D, and yes, it's these two parts that I think stand out. The end to end brace seems like a good idea too, and I'm on the fence about that one, but I run with some home made t2t's, and they are working out fine.
Except it bends the crap out of your shock towers, lol ?
 
Except it bends the crap out of your shock towers, lol ?
Cheapest part to replace, and the new fiberglass one I made, isn't doing nearly the same damage?
 
I can always count on the Notorious to offer sound council. Not on just undergarments (pantyhose, lol). Quick question for you. I'm not great at working on RC cars yet, Im getting there but takes me forever to fix them. With that said I like the V4 changes that makes things easier but looks like the v3's can be found on pretty good sales right now. Seeing $399. Not bad. I'm torn between 540 for a v4 or 399 for a v3. Your thoughts? The way I see it is it costs $100 to update to a v4 from a v3. So basically it ends up being a $50 dollar saving. The time it would take me to update it to a v4 would cost me way more than $50 in time and frustration alone. Haha.

CL-Audio: if I were you, I would have bought V4. I am not very happy that I bought V3 two months before V4 come out :) C´est la vie...

I do envy all of you folks living in US or Commonwealth countries, as many of the companies you are buying parts from do not ship goods to the Czech republic... Fortunately the company I work for has a lot of CNC machinery so I decided to make my own alu servo holder for V3 Kraton as I wait for new servo. I will post some photos when it is done.
 
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CL-Audio: if I were you, I would have bought V4. I am not very happy that I bought V3 two months before V4 come out :) C´est la vie...

I do envy all of you folks living in US or Commonwealth countries, as many of the companies you are buying parts from do not ship goods to the Czech republic... Fortunately the company I work for has a lot of CNC machinery so I decided to make my own alu servo holder for V3 Kraton as I wait for new servo. I will post some photos when it is done.
Well I got it on sale. Even buying all the parts that have changed on the 2019 version, which I wouldn't, I still saved 50 dollars. At least you have some fine women in the Czech republic.
 
Get you a protek 170tbl, I run that in my mt410 and about to order 2 more for my kraton and db48
 
Hi folks, i got my ordered servo Power-HD DW-25LV and kind people in our company made for me the two new alu servo holders (i wanted only one but they made for all the cases two :) ), so today i installed it all and it is really way much better than ADS-15M. I was surprised when the truck is power off how easy steering goes (with no big resistance when attached to servo) compared to ADS-15M. There must be something rotten in the ADS-15M. Responses are much better and truck now can do some maneuvers that it did not before. I tightened the servo saver too. Car now can move front wheels lock-to-lock standing on the ground. I also set up steering endpoints this time :-D
Last picture shows my effort to make a dirt protection shield. It is made of steel net, usually used by bad boys for the front bumper´s tuning of their VW Passats.
Next steps will be do some repair and creating of the one big central alu brace, going from front shock tower to back shock tower, including a roof protection, so the present Kraton roof cage becomes unnecessary. If only I knew the angle in which is front part of the chassis bent...??? Does anybody know...???
 

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I purchased my Kraton V3 2 days before the V4 came out. I did install the center brace from a V4. If you purchase the pars from Jennys , you will need the following parts:
Arrma KRATON 6s BLX - Side Guards, Battery Tray, Roll Tower wing mount (for the rear mount & roll tower to allow the brace to pass through)
Arrma KRATON 6s BLX - SCREWS & Tools (screws for the brace bar)
Arrma KRATON 6s BLX - STEERING Set (V4) bellcrank for the front mount)
Arrma KRATON 6s BLX - RED Center Brace Bar
I found the center brace was about 1/8" too long . When I installed it , my body mounts did not line up. I shortened the brace and all was fine.The ends are screwed on and put into the bare with locktite. My servo is still working good so I can't help you there.
So, let me get this straight. I need to by all of those parts kits to install the V4 center brace? That seems like a lot. Someone told me it was easy to fit the new brace. This doesn't seem easy... Is there another tower to tower brace that others highly recommend?
 
So, let me get this straight. I need to by all of those parts kits to install the V4 center brace? That seems like a lot. Someone told me it was easy to fit the new brace. This doesn't seem easy... Is there another tower to tower brace that others highly recommend?

If you purchase the parts form Jenny's , you need all those parts. There is a lot of extra parts. It's not real hard to fit the new brace , but it does take some time.
 
If you purchase the parts form Jenny's , you need all those parts. There is a lot of extra parts. It's not real hard to fit the new brace , but it does take some time.
Soppy, thanks for the information.
 
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