Im definetly cursed

[Surchaufeur]

I decided to go up in punch and the cogging came back harder than ever made the truck accelerate unevently it was a mess today. Im using the stock v4 electronics. I have no idea whats causing this my pinion is 14t. I noticed the blue connector heatshink was a bit melting and could see bare wire. So i removed the heathink everything seems well soldered but i came across to this

i refreshed the esc solder join.

 

[Exc3l]

Woa maybe one of the rc wizards will come into play

 

[Surchaufeur]

Woa maybe one of the rc wizards will come into play

Im at complete loss i think thats why i fail to do backflips correctly and i keep landing on the shock towers i have no clue it onky happens under random heavy acceleration
Im a bit tired to land on the front shock towers everyday my body is starting to not like that at all hurts to nose dive this way

 

[Exc3l]

Yea Ive never seen that happed. I have seen those wires split at the solder and stuff but not melt the rubber lol. Maybe someone will help u in the morning cause not every ones on rn

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yea Ive never seen that happed. I have seen those wires split at the solder and stuff but not melt the rubber lol. Maybe someone will help u in the morning cause not every ones on rn

I unsoldered a bullet from my old k4s motor who doesn't have those grey spots but they seem to not be the same and maybe they are not rated for the same amps

My kraton 4s too had this issue but only happens when i crash coughs for a bit and restarts flawlessly but sometimes it just doesn't want to move anymore i have to play with the connector that kept melting the heatshink to get it started again like a car with a bad starter and you nee to hammer it to get it going. My k4s motor can is just so beaten up i think i jumped and i smahed into a rock under the motor remplaced the bullet esc and motor didnt test it becsuse waiting for parts. If the motor still works i don't think its justified to claim warranty it would be my 4motor and i feel bad about it?

 

[gotnitro]

User error? Cold solder joint...

 

[Surchaufeur]

User error? Cold solder joint...

How user error? The esc and motor were brand new fron jennyrc

 

[gotnitro]

How user error? The esc and motor were brand new fron jennyrc

I was answering your question with a question. Cold solder joints can happen at the factory. I’ve had many servos that had that problem right outa the package. It can happen with motor bullets too. Check all your soldering. When solder fills the joint but is not hot enough to flow through the wires, it looks like a good joint but it’s cold. I’m not saying that’s your problem 100%, just something to look into.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I was answering your question with a question. Cold solder joints can happen at the factory. I’ve had many servos that had that problem right outa the package. It can happen with motor bullets too. Check all your soldering. When solder fills the joint but is not hot enough to flow through the wires, it looks like a good joint but it’s cold. I’m not saying that’s your problem 100%, just something to look into.

Im going to resolder the motor wire. I only have 2 color heatshink

 

[bicketybam]

Which truck is this? K4S?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Which truck is this? K4S?

K6s and i think i found my issue but it didnt sound like a diff noise to me it just appened at lower speed but i had the stupid sun gear output cup loose ton of play decided to open the diff to tighten it up and i found this i think i should be okay going to shim it tighter

Thats the reason why i went hot racing diff case in the rear i quess i need for the front too i have an exb diff but im missing a few LSD plates should arrive next week but i don't trust the stock bulckhead i had it shimmed pretty well when i first installed it
I never heard a diff clicking noise but i did hear once crack noise when i landed on the shock tower i landed countless of times on it and i think thats maybe the noise came from the diff
I don't like the output shaft personally they love to slide out slightly and cause a bit of playmy rear outdrive is tight af and it still backed out slightly enought to be pushed in and out a few mm

 

[bicketybam]

Cogging and stripped teeth on a diff can be tough to tell apart. From a dead standstill, nail the throttle. If it's the diff, the motor will actually spin right up and the truck will stutter while the teeth skip on the diff. If it's cogging, the motor doesn't spin right up and then it finally does you do a massive wheelie and usually end up upside down. To confirm, lower the punch to 1. The cogging usually goes away or is severely diminished.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Cogging and stripped teeth on a diff can be tough to tell apart. From a dead standstill, nail the throttle. If it's the diff, the motor will actually spin right up and the truck will stutter while the teeth skip on the diff. If it's cogging, the motor doesn't spin right up and then it finally does you do a massive wheelie and usually end up upside down. To confirm, lower the punch to 1. The cogging usually goes away or is severely diminished.

The acceleration completly fails it doesn't wheelie its like an engine missfire. At high speed i don't hear any clicking its impressive how 0.1mm of shims can cause this kind of dmage my diff slid on with 0.3mm of shims i can ad more to take the slop
But cant hear any gearmesh between the sun gear and crown gear
The best i can describe is like this its like if i block my k4s with my foot and try to go slowly foward and it shakes thats the noise i hear
Yeah my diff is poorly shimmed right now

 

[Surchaufeur]

Going to test it tonight but sucks the diff is damaged. But oh well she will still carry on

 

[bicketybam]

The acceleration completly fails it doesn't wheelie its like an engine missfire. At high speed i don't hear any clicking its impressive how 0.1mm of shims can cause this kind of dmage my diff slid on with 0.3mm of shims i can ad more to take the slop
But cant hear any gearmesh between the sun gear and crown gear
The best i can describe is like this its like if i block my k4s with my foot and try to go slowly foward and it shakes thats the noise i hear
Yeah my diff is poorly shimmed right now

The "foot block" test is a great way to tell if it's cogging.

 

[Surchaufeur]

The "foot block" test is a great way to tell if it's cogging.

Yep thats the sound i hear when it happens going to test it today i wont jump it because reasons and threadlock is not fully set on that diff cup
But i flooded the dam thing so lol

 

[Surchaufeur]

After an agressive run today its clear this issue only happens on my powerfull lipos like the hrbs . I ran on punch 6 but when i went to punch 7 it did less wheelies when it was cogging badly so went back to punch 6 and it was an animal again. To me it looks like the esc is not able to run on that huge spike during acceleration and missfires the motorbecause the car starts to accelerate suddendly stoles and starts again. When i ran my awanfis it only cog once during the whole baterry pack. But when i went to my hrbs again who were almost completly discharge it immedietly started to do the same thing than before. I have been exchanging pms with ted from jennyrc but im 90% sure its the esc its hard to belive its the motor

 

[Surchaufeur]

Im going to change my xt90s of my esc ones has a lot of dark spot vs the others

 

[Surchaufeur]

I think my esc is about to catch fire when i ran the hrb lipos it was cogging like no tommorow overheated twice and i wasnt pushing the thing hard. Ran decent with zeee and awanfi. I have a new esc coming from jennyrc i hope its the esc the problem

 

[Surchaufeur]

Tested the new esc todsy and it was still cogging after punch 5 but yesterday IT WAS NOT
Backhome i saw my rear diff was locking up. Opened it up no gear damage of what i can see but the diff cup is leaking once sgain from the steel insert. I need a witch. I have really no words im a
Vout to pull my hairs out.