Motor moves but not much even at full throttle then it stops working esc blinks green once I think then no motor working.tried loading video but won't let me
It won't let me attach videoWaiting for the video.... to help better.
Waiting for the video.... to help better.
Waiting for the video.... to help better.
Check for dirt moisture etc. in the moto.r Motor needs to free spin easily by hand ( without the pinion gear on) So you know the motor is not binding up and preventing rotation. Did you run this in the wet or snow at all? Definitely take the motor apart, watch the shims as you take out and keep track of them. Then remove the armature. Look at the 2 Ball bearings. They should spin freely, clean or wipe down and place a drop of oil back on them. But if the armature looks damaged in any way or doesn't rotate smooth. Then the motor is no good. A bad motor can also ruin the ESC if not caught in time. If you see dirt and or moisture in there or rust. that was the problem with the. motor. These motor bearings also wear out and can be replaced if the armature is still fine. Once the armature is broken or stator (inside of the motor can) is rusted, then it is junk at this point. Just replace with a new similar KV motor.Yeah I ran it in the snow everything was fine and this was literally a day ago I took it apart after I ran in the snow cleaned everything blew everything out and then sat in front of by the heater to dry for some reason I think it's the wires cuz they kind of kink where the motor is and when I'm giving it gas if I move one of the wires it stops I feel like but I'll go ahead and take apart the motor and see what I can do thank you I'm new to the RC game I used to have one back in the day and RC 10. So I should take the pinion gear off and the motor off the mountain everything and test it first or take it apart and look at it before I test it without the pinion gearTake the motor apart The only way to tell. The ESC lights seem fine going from red to green at full throttle. And go out at no throttle.
Before you disassemble the motor, you can also try removing one of 3 motor leads and throttle the motor. Then reinstall the 3rd wire and try again. The motor is cogging, that is what you see and hear. I cant tell if the ESC is at fault. Need to see good pictures of the inside of the motor and all its parts. good luck.
Yeah I ran it in the snow everything was fine and this was literally a day ago I took it apart after I ran in the snow cleaned everything blew everything out and then sat in front of by the heater to dry for some reason I think it's the wires cuz they kind of kink where the motor is and when I'm giving it gas if I move one of the wires it stops I feel like but I'll go ahead and take apart the motor and see what I can do thank you I'm new to the RC game I used to have one back in the day and RC 10. So I should take the pinion gear off and the motor off the mountain everything and test it first or take it apart and look at it before I test it without the pinion gearTake the motor apart The only way to tell. The ESC lights seem fine going from red to green at full throttle. And go out at no throttle.
Before you disassemble the motor, you can also try removing one of 3 motor leads and throttle the motor. Then reinstall the 3rd wire and try again. The motor is cogging, that is what you see and hear. I cant tell if the ESC is at fault. Need to see good pictures of the inside of the motor and all its parts. good luck.
IDK looks fineHelp Motor Bad.
Get Motor Good. And you will be bashing in no time.
Real easy one.
This exact same thing happened to my granite
For some reason. Mine randomly started working again. But it still makes that sound when trying to go uphill, but only at a couple of RPMs. And if I pull full throttle uphill. It can't. It will just cut out after about 5 seconds of trying. Unless it gets speed before charging the hill. I also reset my throttle in the instructions and that seemed to help a bit. Another thing I did is change the 15T pinion to a 13T which also helped a lot. It gave the car more torque.
yes I took mine all apart everything's fine it looks like there's a little scuffing on the front part of the magnet like not bad just like a little Mark but I for some reason I think it's the front bearing could a bearing cause that just to do that and then I've seen other people cutting the wires and saying that if you one wires are ripped on one side or broke the cut the other one to make it even out I just don't really want to f*** this up cuz me and my son love doing this and we don't have much money you know that's all pandemic thing but this is our little fun time time
Yeah I feel. I just haven't found a solution. I am a 16 year old with a job so it's not like I have to pay tons of bills. But I definitely feel the money. Sometimes it can be a lot. Believe me lol. Although it is expensive. Im planning on getting a mamba x with the 1415 2400 kv motor. Which is sensored. Which means it doesn't cog at all. Omg I've seen them online and they are crazy. I'm saving up for one currently bc I don't really have the extra money rn. But it is about $239. I'll post link below. There is a cheaper solution though. You can buy a new motor of the same type. If you look of the motor, it says the model number. Like sps2000. Or something like that. But I've looked it up before and it's like 80 bucks. But it's better than paying more money. Especially if it's too much.
Actually, there is something. You can email arrma customer service. You can find it on their website. However, there is a wait-list, and it may take a while to get a response. But the granite is backed by a 2 year warranty. And they will send you a new motor. But I did email them a while back. And haven't gotten a response. About 1 month ago
Honestly water can corrode the windings ever so slightly and cause issues. Can show up days even week later. Unseen to the naked eye. If it matters to you and your budget is tight, don't run in the wet. The risk for electrical failure is too high when running in the wet. You did say you have an intermittent power connection with one of the motor phase leads. when you move them. You cant fix a bad winding in a motor. Next to impossible.
non-sensored brushless motors are cheap. The GoolRC motors are pretty decent - I have this one in my granite. Going strong for 2 years, and if it dies, I don't cry ($30) -
I might buy that just to see. It wouldn't hurt. Thanks. Although later on I'm probably gonna upgrade to the mamba x with the 1415 2400kv. Bc it's just a better setup.
So have you broken more drivetrain parts with that much lower end torque. Bc I'm wondering if you can snap a axle of you tried a standing backflip?I had been wanting that same combo, back when I was running this motor with a GoolRC ESC. But with the MX, I am really happy. Motor has more power, and is super smooth at all speeds. More power than I can use, both top end and bottom end. Standing backflips off the line + can't find top speed due to tire ballooning. I was waiting for the combo to come back in stock, but then came across a deal for the MX used and decided to take a chance. It was a Great choice.
Nice. I'm thinking about getting the optional steel diff gear and input gear that also requires the composite case. I've heard is crazy strong. Not worried about the front diff. I've never stripped a gear on the front. I've also heard that that hot racing diff yoke is very good as well
Immediate after maintenance is a must. To let it sit and air dry is not going to cut it. Yes compressed air is a must do. Just remember that the compressed air will actually push air inside parts as well. I use a Shop Vacuum on all my electrics to suck out as much as I can. Not just compressed air. You can't see that moisture. So careful attention works when doing this. Bearings don't get necessarily dry if they got wet. Easy to push air and the water into bearings. Also push out the BB lube... and electrics are the real critical areas. Water can seep into motors at the front or back. Some motor end bells are better sealed better than others. The ESC "Potting" that WP's ESC's are not perfect during Mfr. Potting can shrink also and water just gets into them. A drop of moisture is enough to brick them. So if you are willing to take out your motor and open it up every single time to overhaul it clean it inspect it, and re lube it, you will have a better chance of longevity running in the wet. Most don't do that. Or think its necessary because all this is relative and subjective to how much your chassis gets wet. We all have differing ideas on this. Water is fun. Just means much more maintenance, unless you are fine with replacing electrics more frequently and understand why they can brick from water. Considered WP or not. Doing your own WP'ing helps much but up to a point. I run my Crawlers through streams and snow storms (fun), like I say all the time. I take measures for that. My bashers are fair weather drivers. Running Higher voltage and amps and more $$ ESC's. Just more prudent for me to keep them dry IF I can. The usual puddles and stuff just happens sometimes by accident. Normal.
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