Kraton HELP - Steering question

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Bread1267

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Just replaced my servo on my kraton 6s v5. Will this angle of the arm cause problems? My steerings seems somewhat weak. (Servo saver absorbing a lot of the torque)
 
I thought with the firma 150 you can’t change the bec. Also yeah I’ve seen some people switch out the bushings for some bearings. Any suggestions with that? I might add some c clips to my servo saver to tighten it up.
Its a thing for sure. . Just replace the 4 ST bushings with bearings. In fact just get a whole rubber sealed bearing kit for your rig from TRBRC. It will have the ST bearings in there, (4) of them. You WILL go through bearings anyway. Get the whole kit. But they are available separately. Just cost more for just the 4.

I tried that same servo arm you have, it comes with some servos. I did not like it on any of my 6S rigs. Why did you use it? The stock one is fine and better fitting. Also, the servo linkage should be level. Stock servo arm is level..... If anything, shim or space so that wrong arm is level. You will get better torque transfer to the ST Bell crank. Better to Put the stocker back on.(a 25 spline) 👍 👍 USE Blue Thread locker on the servo arm or it will come off.
You can use c clips to shim up the servo saver. Probably want to have 4 of them put on IMHO. The springs tend to get weak. Mostly noticeable with stronger servos. Weaker stock servos don't reveal a weak servo saver spring. Just my thoughts.:cool:
 
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Its a thing for sure. . Just replace the 4 ST bushings with bearings. In fact just get a whole rubber sealed bearing kit for your rig from TRBRC. It will have the ST bearings in there, (4) of them. You WILL go through bearings anyway. Get the whole kit. But they are available separately. Just cost more for just the 4.

I tried that same servo arm you have, it comes with some servos. I did not like it on any of my 6S rigs. Why did you use it? The stock one is fine and better fitting. Also, the servo linkage should be level. Stock servo arm is level..... If anything, shim or space so that wrong arm so it is level. You will get better torque transfer to the ST Bell crank. Better to Put the stocker back on. 👍 👍
You can use c clips to shim up the servo saver. Probably want to have 4 of them put on IMHO. The springs tend to get weak. Mostly noticeable with stronger servos. Weaker stock servos don't reveal a weak servos saver spring. Just my thoughts.:cool:
What you think about replacing the servo saver with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...4630b136edf5f22e572d|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524


I put 4 c clips on the servo saver but I really like having a lot of torque in my steering.
 
Not sure i have an opinion yet. Thats maybe one of few Hot Racing parts I didnt order as I saw nothing wrong with the stock servo saver. I bought a new spring for "Justin Case" and will take it from there. If my LHS order and outta town shop deliveries come in tomorrow, I'm kicking off the rebuild. My Senton 6s is a pile of parts, bolts, and a bare chassis right now with maybe $500-600 in HR parts, $200 in stock parts, $100 Scorched, $50 Gravity, $50 Lunsford, $60 in lights and switches and another $200 misc(non-rc, but going in 'er). Sick of waiting on Scorched, which is either in Customs at Toronto or fell in the Atlantic as there has been no change since it left Jolly England Monday or Tuesday....

Yeah....Shoulda bought Rcpropenet's Mojave...
Its a thing for sure. . Just replace the 4 ST bushings with bearings. In fact just get a whole rubber sealed bearing kit for your rig from TRBRC. It will have the ST bearings in there, (4) of them. You WILL go through bearings anyway. Get the whole kit. But they are available separately. Just cost more for just the 4.

I tried that same servo arm you have, it comes with some servos. I did not like it on any of my 6S rigs. Why did you use it? The stock one is fine and better fitting. Also, the servo linkage should be level. Stock servo arm is level..... If anything, shim or space so that wrong arm is level. You will get better torque transfer to the ST Bell crank. Better to Put the stocker back on. 👍 👍 USE Blue Thread locker on the servo arm or it will come off.
You can use c clips to shim up the servo saver. Probably want to have 4 of them put on IMHO. The springs tend to get weak. Mostly noticeable with stronger servos. Weaker stock servos don't reveal a weak servo saver spring. Just my thoughts.:cool:
Good eye! I didn't even notice and I usually spot those kind of things. Must be getting old because the angle of that horn is extreme.
 
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Like some others have said, put in some c clips or get the servo spring (which seems to be out of stock most places) and get those bushings out of there if that doesn’t completely solve it. Good luck!
The Arrma X Hard spring has been on B/O forever.
And the only rig it ever came stock on I believe is the EXB Mojave Roller if I am correct. Its not even on the EXB Kraton for some stupid reason. 🤷‍♂️

SERVO SAVER SPRING 12x20mm X-HARD (1pc) (ARA340178) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

ARRMA Radio Controlled Cars (RC Cars) - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

EDIT:
Just use 4 c clips. And you are good. Skip that HR SS. IMHO.
BTW its a bear to remove the stock SS hub/Nut to change out that SS spring. Arrma uses Gorilla Snot RED TL on it and you may brick the SS trying to remove it. Ask me how I know?
The best way is to get the X Hard spring ( if ever available) and a new SS hub together and build it fresh from the get go. And only use a tiny drop of Blue TL. But till I can get an XHard spring, I have been shimming with 4 clips. ( 1 rig so far )
 
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The Arrma X Hard spring has been on B/O forever.
And the only rig it ever came stock on I believe is the EXB Mojave Roller if I am correct. Its not even on the EXB Kraton for some stupid reason. 🤷‍♂️

SERVO SAVER SPRING 12x20mm X-HARD (1pc) (ARA340178) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

ARRMA Radio Controlled Cars (RC Cars) - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

EDIT:
Just use 4 c clips. And you are good. Skip that HR SS. IMHO.
BTW its a bear to remove the stock SS hub/Nut to change out that SS spring. Arrma uses Gorilla Snot RED TL on it and you may brick the SS trying to remove it. Ask me how I know?
The best way is to get the X Hard spring ( if ever available) and a new SS hub together and build it fresh from the get go. And only use a tiny drop of Blue TL. But till I can get an XHard spring, I have been shimming with 4 clips. ( 1 rig so far )
Hopefully this is one bolt the previous owner didn't get out...cause if he did im just chucking it in the garbage and seeing if I can score the Hard X spring and ss hub. I swear, every bolt I took out is a Patriot. All threads had white, blue, and red TL residue...
 
The Arrma X Hard spring has been on B/O forever.
And the only rig it ever came stock on I believe is the EXB Mojave Roller if I am correct. Its not even on the EXB Kraton for some stupid reason. 🤷‍♂️

SERVO SAVER SPRING 12x20mm X-HARD (1pc) (ARA340178) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

ARRMA Radio Controlled Cars (RC Cars) - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

EDIT:
Just use 4 c clips. And you are good. Skip that HR SS. IMHO.
BTW its a bear to remove the stock SS hub/Nut to change out that SS spring. Arrma uses Gorilla Snot RED TL on it and you may brick the SS trying to remove it. Ask me how I know?
The best way is to get the X Hard spring ( if ever available) and a new SS hub together and build it fresh from the get go. And only use a tiny drop of Blue TL. But till I can get an XHard spring, I have been shimming with 4 clips. ( 1 rig so far )
Here is the spring right here https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRMA-ARA3...rentrq:715058711770ac3ea4e43ca8ffedecee|iid:1
 
^^^ HH site says next shipment on the Xhard springs is April.
At this point idk if I should even upgrade the spring or just keep my c clips on. There is way too many options haha!
 
The clips are fine. I have 4 other rigs here to do. I figured the spring would work cause its also cheap. Just that it will be an absolute bear to take aprt that SS hub without damage. It is soft alloy. So you also need a fresh new SS hub in pieces to make it work.
I took one apart and it was bricked beyond use. It is like Glued together. And you cant use much heat or torch to help separating the factory TL crap because the plastic SS arm melts, and then you are buying more parts. Just my thoughts.
Was stock medium or soft? I got this incoming:View attachment 124750
don't get the HARD. (n) It is the standard spring you have.
Need the Xhard.👍 XHard is silver/chrome in color. The others are dark steel color. If I am correct. Picture shows the XHard in silver color.
 
In other words, a tough uphill battle only to fail and roll back downhill into a gully..
The clips are fine. I have 4 other rigs here to do. I figured the spring would work cause its also cheap. Just that it will be an absolute bear to take aprt that SS hub without damage. It is soft alloy. So you also need a fresh new SS hub in pieces to make it work.
I took one apart and it was bricked beyond use. It is like Glued together. And you cant use much heat or torch to help separating the factory TL crap because the plastic SS arm melts, and then you are buying more parts. Just my thoughts.

don't get the HARD. (n) It is the standard spring you have.
Need the Xhard.👍 XHard is silver/chrome in color. The others are dark steel color. If I am correct. Picture shows the XHard in silver color.
That ship sailed. doesn't matter,I can still maybe find that XHard spring. And L3phturn taught me the value of having spare/backup parts.
 
You recommend some bearings or just take the bushings out in general? I added some restraining clips and it sure did tighten the spring up. Im not sure why they even made the spring for the servo saver so weak.
Yes, the steering posts should have been bearings from factory. Clearly a cost saving measure. I use fast eddys bearings on most everything. You will be surprised at how smooth the rack moves after.
 
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