Kraton Help! too chicken s**t to dismantle new kraton

[Jerry-rigged]

What always gets me is when you take out those 11tybillion screws that are all different sizes and length and getting them back to the right location.

The easy way to get around this is with tackle trays. Put the screws and small parts from each step in one compartment in the tackle tray. When you move to the next step, those parts go in the next section. If you have to stop, mid repair, just close the lid, no parts get lost or mixed up. When you start to rebuild, all the screws and small parts for each step are nicely sorted. If you have parts left kn a compartment, you know you skipped a step.

 

[bicketybam]

I like putting the screws back into the hole they came out of. That's always worked for me.

 

[jondilly1974]

Putting the screws back into the piece you’re working on is a great idea Ed. Another thing I could say is make sure you have a large enough space to spread things out. Make sure you’re not working in a messy and cramped area. Having plenty of space to work is essential.

Another pro tip is to use sheets of paper or sticky notes to remember where parts go. You could even set up a GoPro and video the whole thing and play it back if you forget where something went or the order in which you removed it.

I think the biggest hurdle is the loctite tho. If you have a hot soldering iron on hand, let it melt that stuff before trying to hard to break it free. Take your time. You don’t need to muscle thru and break or strip things.

 

[LoriLiam]

What always gets me is when you take out those 11tybillion screws that are all different sizes and length and getting them back to the right location.

When you get out a screw from the old part , put immediately on the new replace part or maybe you take a piece of papere and put the screws there and write with a pen on the paper where the screw goes ..... you will see that after 2 times that you do it, you will be confident and already know which screw goes in the right place....ohh sorry guys I recognized now that you have suggested the same things that I wrote!! ?

 

[caburnha]

Does anyone know of a video that's shown the bearing replacement on either the 6s or 3s rigs?
Oh and which bearings are the most important to replace with sealed ones?

 

[bicketybam]

Does anyone know of a video that's shown the bearing replacement on either the 6s or 3s rigs?
Oh and which bearings are the most important to replace with sealed ones?

I'm sure there are videos out there. As far as the most important, I'd say the wheel hubs/steering blocks.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Does anyone know of a video that's shown the bearing replacement on either the 6s or 3s rigs?
Oh and which bearings are the most important to replace with sealed ones?

As a new guy, don't stress over needing to replace bearings. Yes, rubber sealed bearings are sort of better than rubber shielded bearings, but the kit bearings are pretty decent. NONE OF THEM NEED TO BE REPLACED RIGHT AWAY. Best plan - go ahead and buy the new set of bearings. Keep them in your tool box. As you tear into your RC to fix other stuff, swap in the new bearings.

IMHO, this whole "Arrma need rubber shielded bearings in the kit" is overblown. The stock bearings are fine for a RTR. In fact, the current bearings are much better quality than my v1 came with - Arrma DID upgrade the bearings. But no one cares about that. They just want that rubber shield, regardless.

 

[Notorious J]

So much good advice from the group, but I think @bicketybam @jondilly1974 and @Jerry-rigged nailed it above. When you can, put screws back in to the new part or the part you just removed, but if that's not your thing, use a big space, and separate all the parts into trays as they come off. You will quickly learn where the three different types of screws go, and why they belong there. Keeping the different sizes organized is a much bigger task. Exploded views in the manual and online if possible, should be open at all times. One piece of advice for someone new to the hobby, but also new to metal to metal connections, get yourself a mini torch or good soldering iron and an excellent set of hex drivers. The use of thread locker (loctite) is abundant in an Arrma 6s, and you should never try to remove a screw that's fastened to metal, with out applying a fair amount of heat to it first. This will help save your screws and reduce the headaches of trying to extract a stripped screw. We're always here to help and guide if you need us. @bicketybam's tutorial videos are top notch, and explained in laymen's terms, so handy to keep his channel open if/when you get stuck. Everything's gonna be alright.????

 

[Ralion]

Once you tear it down and put it back together you'll be in love that much more. Kind of like hitting a home run with a girl, you become intimate with it and really get to know it up close and personal. If it makes a little noise you'll know exactly how to silince it and make it happy, and in return it will give you so much joy. A happy truck is a happy life.

 

[jondilly1974]

Does anyone know of a video that's shown the bearing replacement on either the 6s or 3s rigs?
Oh and which bearings are the most important to replace with sealed ones?

The 3S really is super simple and a lot less thread lock. Mainly because it’s mostly plastic. The least needed bearings IMO are the inner diffs. They are sealed inside the diff cup and soaked in silicone oil. The rest are actually pretty easy to change, with the exception of the diff output bearings, as you have to unscrew the driveshafts from the diff output shafts, which isn’t easy to figure out on your own. Those are the only ones I would say are tricky for a new guy.

 

[His-n-hers]

paying someone else 30-40 per hr to do all the work is a pretty good cure to your fear.
a friend of mine has a small fortune in 2 cars before he finally either had me walk him through it or he tackled it himself.
i told him about the forum but he does not like dealing with computers, hes getting over that too.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Give it time. You eventually will be knuckles deep in the teardown aspect.

 

[SrC]

I have Tekno MT410 and since I generally like to build RC kits and I work on 1:1 it came naturally.
Yes the Tekno manual is superb for comparative components of Arrma 6S rigs,
Can I suggest you a better manual that is very similar:
https://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manuals/TD102039/DEX8T Manual.pdf
This may work better as most parts are identical.
I wish some of the DEX8T Durango parts were still readily available. It was more tunable and race spec. Sorry to lose Durango way back. Kraton is the RTR offshoot of the DEX8T originally both made by Dragonstar RC .(China) During the Hobbico days.

 

[Harlon]

I have Tekno MT410 and since I generally like to build RC kits and I work on 1:1 it came naturally.
Yes the Tekno manual is superb for comparative components of Arrma 6S rigs,
Can I suggest you a better manual that is very similar:
https://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manuals/TD102039/DEX8T Manual.pdf
This may work better as most parts are identical.
I wish some of the DEX8T Durango parts were still readily available. It was more tunable and race spec. Sorry to lose Durango way back. Kraton is the RTR offshoot of the DEX8T originally both made by Dragonstar RC .(China) During the Hobbico days.

THANK YOU! These comparative manuals are a huge help to a noob like myself. ??