Hex 6s install in Kraton

[rgfast]

As title states I installed a Hex 6s in my kraton, when mounting the ESC I used the provided double face tape as well as a tie wrap. This lasted one pack of bashing LOL fan broke and ESC flopping around My ? is what are you guys doing to keep the ESC supported in place. I've only run 9 packs on this car so I'm a rooky driver and car had some hard landings to say the least!!

 

[Jeffashbaugh452]

I also used the double sided tape but also used the 2 mounting tabs. Once I got the esc where I wanted it I removed the esc and mounting plate and drilled 2 holes through the plate and bolted it down with a couple button head screws and nylock nuts.

 

[rgfast]

thanks I like that , problem here is the Hex 6 doesn't have the screw tabs

 

[Jeffashbaugh452]

I think I would just put a zip tie or 2 under the mounting plate and around the esc

 

[rgfast]

yell I was thinking some heavy duty Velcro and larger zip ties than what I used to start with, I used a couple of small zip ties the first time because they fit nicely between the cooling fins of the ESC

 

[olds97_lss]

I used an actual max6 in my outcast recently. I used 4 screws to mount it to the stock plate (after modifying the plate a bit to remove the lip for the stock esc) and I also used gorrilla tape. I took the fan off and made a little spacer double sided taped for the center of the fan that makes contact with the heat sink to help avoid having frequent fan breakage like many others have. It supports the center of the fan so it's not just dead weight hanging there.

I did the same thing with the fan on the max6 I put in my ERBEv2, but I wasn't able to bolt the esc to the plate. I made a secondary plate that I put channels in, I cut really short cap head screws to put in the bottom of the esc and made matching holes in the plate so they keyed into the chassis plate I made, which is bolted down. Then I used zipties to hold the esc onto the chassis. I replaced the screws on the fan with cap heads so the zips had something to lock into:

The setup on the revo was kind of annoying as the stock esc mounts directly to the chassis with screws from the top. Those were covered up by the max6 as it's larger. So I made a plate that used the two stock mounting holes and added a leg to use a 3rd unused hole (that was for a rear chassis brace I also replaced with something better), then as mentioned, I put holes in the plate and screws on the bottom of the esc to lock it into the plate and the zips are just there to hold it down.

 

[rgfast]

thanks for the input , the Hex 6 has four holes in the bottom which I just measured the depth @ 4.50mm deep so plan is to make templet of hole pattern and transfer to OEM esc plate to drill holes for mounting will post pictures

I also notice you spoke of spacer between fan and esc , I read else where here about fan breakage where someone had used a shock piston glued to the bottom of fan but no one posted updates to how that worked out for them. I going make sure to fill that gap and hope to get a little more life out of my fan ( did order the three pack of fans just in case ) LoL

 

[olds97_lss]

thanks for the input , the Hex 6 has four holes in the bottom which I just measured the depth @ 4.50mm deep so plan is to make templet of hole pattern and transfer to OEM esc plate to drill holes for mounting will post pictures

I also notice you spoke of spacer between fan and esc , I read else where here about fan breakage where someone had used a shock piston glued to the bottom of fan but no one posted updates to how that worked out for them. I going make sure to fill that gap and hope to get a little more life out of my fan ( did order the three pack of fans just in case ) LoL

I had some little generic rubber "feet" that you would put on electronics or whatever that had adhesive on them. No clue where I got them, but I had 20 or 30 at one point all stuck to a piece of wax paper like buttons. It was too thick at first, so I sanded it down gently with a dremel sander drum until it just barely made contact with the fins on the esc heat sink in the middle. It's a very solid rubber.

They looked just like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Anti-Skid-Shock-Absorbing-Protection/dp/B01LDLJF5K

 

[rgfast]

I had some little generic rubber "feet" that you would put on electronics or whatever that had adhesive on them. No clue where I got them, but I had 20 or 30 at one point all stuck to a piece of wax paper like buttons. It was too thick at first, so I sanded it down gently with a dremel sander drum until it just barely made contact with the fins on the esc heat sink in the middle. It's a very solid rubber.

They looked just like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Anti-Skid-Shock-Absorbing-Protection/dp/B01LDLJF5K

thanks you for the help here and the link
I see those are 3.50mm thick so would need to sand about 1.0mm off for a good tight fit

 

[Mr.Duke]

This thread has a few tips
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/the-max-6-is-huge.12060/

 

[rgfast]

This thread has a few tips
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/the-max-6-is-huge.12060/

Good read thanks for your input, very helpful for me and others looking to do this mod

 

[rgfast]

so with the great help from everyone here today I don't think I'll have my esc coming loose again. I made template of holes using paper cut to size of esc to transfer hole centers to mounting plate, drilled new holes ( three that would work ) OEM esc mounting plate is 3mm thick and holes in esc are 4.50mm so I cut 3mm pan hex screws to 6mm for a safe install depth super happy with results

 

[olds97_lss]

You did better than I did. When I put my max6 in my outcast, I put the template too close to the stupid servo. Ended up grinding about 3mm off my Armor Werks alloy servo mount so it would bolt in.