Hex grub screw

[Kusher]

ok so I ha e a little problem.not sure what to do about it. The grub screw that holds on the wheel hex is stripped out and I do not know how to go about getting it out to replace it or just getting it out period. Do I need to get a new hex and hub and all the components to just replace the whole thing? Or since thst happened just get an upgraded hub and new hex? Any advice is WAY more than welcome. Thanks guys. HELP!

 

[SrC]

You are not the first. I know there is thread somewhere regarding this one. Maybe a few. An old issue for years with these 6s rigs.
Dirt and rust build up in there. Easy to strip out , even with a decent 2.5mm hand driver.
Did you use a torch or heat first? Cleaned out with some WD40 or solvent spray?
Arrma uses tons of their infamous RED Gorilla Snot Threadlocker on these grub screws to begin with. I don't know why, it really isn't needed in this location. I never reapply any TL on this Grub screw.
But this is part of the reason, it stripped out.

This never happened to me. Reading about this happening, I cleaned and used a torch first, Then my MIP 2.5 driver. It is really tightly threaded from the factory. You only need a few turns to loosen the Grub screw to get the Hex pin out. FWIW.
Worse case, you drill it out and need to replace just the steel axle and grub.
JennysrRC has sets.
Hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

[Kusher]

I tried some heat and I just got some MIP hex drivers. I did not want to do this with the regular wrenches or the one I have for the drill because I was told and saw a lot of people say MIL are the best so thats what inwas using when thst happened. I get it happens but damn its in a crap spot to happen in my opinion. Other than drilling out i could upgrade with some HR or something of the like and the few parts I need on the inside as well, correct? I had planned on doing thst sooner or later but now I have to get just a few extra parts?? Please correct me if I am wrong .im trying to not look like a total idiot

 

[Soppy]

If you try to drill it out , get a left handed drill bit. They are made to cut with your drill in reverse so if they start to grab, the grub screw will come out. Also the heat from drilling will help loosen the thread locker.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

When you do get it fixed. Get some hex nuts that are the cap style. They seal the end off so no dirt n debris gets in there

 

[GatorBait]

I suggest trying a screw extractor before you drill.

 

[Kusher]

and all this i can pick up at hardware store?

 

[jkflow]

On the topic of 'some heat'. It's not enough unless you see the smoke aka loctite burning up. Typically 30s with a hand torch. Usually the dirt in front will be glowing red, that is 'some heat' that is needed. Don't melt the plastic/rubber bearing seals but thats about all you have to worry about.
I had limited success with soldering irons, a couple minutes is not unusual.

 

[Kusher]

was trying to change ve the bearing in the first place why this happened haha. But I can get the aforementioned tools at regular hard ware store yeah? A left handed drill bit and whatnot if needed..just want to make sure I do t have to order online or anything is all. Thanks guys!

 

[GatorBait]

was trying to change ve the bearing in the first place why this happened haha. But I can get the aforementioned tools at regular hard ware store yeah? A left handed drill bit and whatnot if needed..just want to make sure I do t have to order online or anything is all. Thanks guys!

Drill bit small enough is no problem but your hardware store may not have a screw extractor small enough.
Take the part into the store so you measure fitment.

 

[Kusher]

Hmm alright ill have to check i live in a very small town lol just over 10k people is all. So there is t ANYTHING around or near . Even my not so local hobbyshop is almost 2 hours away.

 

[GatorBait]

I would bet your local hardware store If not a big box store will get that grub screw out for you for free....

 

[SrC]

If you have to drill it out, best case, you will need these 2 parts at a minimum. ($23.)

CVD AXLE 8x44.5mm (2pcs) (AR310590) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)
SET SCREW M5x5mm (10pcs) (AR724505) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

I believe these are correct for your Noto.
Always double check your part numbers.

Edit: and the Hex pins.
PIN 2.5x16.8mm (4pcs) (AR713009) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

Alternatively, you can consider JennysRC if available to you. ( kit breaker)

Arrma NOTORIOUS 6s V5 BLX - DRIVESHAFTS (Front/Rear/Center universal c – Jennys RC LLC

($38.)

Get the whole setup, Front and Rear CVD's complete assemblies. You will be bending CVDs here and there down the road. CVD's are costly when bought separately at retail price.
That's how I buy these parts.
Just some ideas.

 

[Spitfire222]

I'm also currently having this problem, and I'm joining the group of people frustrated at the amount or strength of loctite that Arrma uses on some screws. I've already had to drill out a wheel axle screw, and it was a huge pain. I'm on the verge of stripping a motor pinion set screw, so finding this thread was fortuitous. I'm going to try heat application, and if not, just drill it out too and replace with a new one.

Considering how much it seems that these things are meant to be worked on, they sure don't seem to make it easy for us....

 

[Kusher]

I'm also currently having this problem, and I'm joining the group of people frustrated at the amount or strength of loctite that Arrma uses on some screws. I've already had to drill out a wheel axle screw, and it was a huge pain. I'm on the verge of stripping a motor pinion set screw, so finding this thread was fortuitous. I'm going to try heat application, and if not, just drill it out too and replace with a new one.

Considering how much it seems that these things are meant to be worked on, they sure don't seem to make it easy for us....

Not at all it seems sometimes they do this so we do have to spend so much more than we should.

 

[ih8nixon]

This is how I did one of mine.

Remove steering block from car. Clamp the hex hub in a vice and punch out the pin. It will take several pretty good blows with a hammer to dislodge the pin. Remove all other parts from the cvd axle. Then drill a 3/32 hole through the hex grub. Heat it with a propane torch to break down the thread locker if you haven't already done so. Then put the cvd axle on top of the vice and pound a t15 bit into with a hammer to broach it. Put the hex back on and partially insert the pin to hold the hex hub to the cvd axle. Clamp the hex in a vice and use the t15 in an impact drill to remove the grub screw.

The threads inside the CVD axle on mine were messed up. Whoever assembled mine went way over the torque specs and managed to bend one of the hub reataining pins so that even with the grub screw removed it still took a vice, hammer, and punch to remove the pin. Horizon had covered the parts to replace the CV's, Blocks etc... I just got bored one day and decided to see if I could salvage some of the parts.

Edit: Added a step to clarify.

 

[Kusher]

If you have to drill it out, best case, you will need these 2 parts at a minimum. ($23.)

CVD AXLE 8x44.5mm (2pcs) (AR310590) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)
SET SCREW M5x5mm (10pcs) (AR724505) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

I believe these are correct for your Noto.
Always double check your part numbers.

Edit: and the Hex pins.
PIN 2.5x16.8mm (4pcs) (AR713009) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

Alternatively, you can consider JennysRC if available to you. ( kit breaker)

Arrma NOTORIOUS 6s V5 BLX - DRIVESHAFTS (Front/Rear/Center universal c – Jennys RC LLC

($38.)

Get the whole setup, Front and Rear CVD's complete assemblies. You will be bending CVDs here and there down the road. CVD's are costly when bought separately at retail price.
That's how I buy these parts.
Just some ideas.

Might as well get them already seeing as they are tweaked a bit.

This is how I did one of mine.

Remove steering block from car. Clamp the hex hub in a vice and punch out the pin. It will take several pretty good blows with a hammer to dislodge the pin. Then drill a 3/32 hole through the hex grub. Heat it with a propane torch to break down the thread locker if you haven't already done so. Then put the cvd axle on top of the vice and pound a t15 bit into with a hammer to broach it. Put the hex back on and partially insert the pin to hold the hex hub to the cvd axle. Clamp the hex in a vice and use the t15 in an impact drill to remove the grub screw.

The threads inside the CVD axle on mine were messed up. Whoever assembled mine went way over the torque specs and managed to bend one of the hub reataining pins so that even with the grub screw removed it still took a vice, hammer, and punch to remove the pin. Horizon had covered the parts to replace the CV's, Blocks etc... I just got bored one day and decided to see if I could salvage some of the parts.

You went all out on it didn't you? Lol were you able.to still use it after all thst? I know horizon replaced but was anything still salvageable after your process of extraction?

 

[ih8nixon]

Everything except for the two pins ( AR713009) and the two grub hexes were salvageable in the end. The hex hubs have some apprentice marks on them. The threads in the cvd axles are a little torn up, but the grubs screws don't carry that much of a load. They are currently in use as I ended up putting them on the back wheels after I lost a dogbone. They squeek a bit, but work fine.

 

[K-BASH]

Soder gun tip sitting in there 15 mins.works for me

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

On the topic of 'some heat'. It's not enough unless you see the smoke aka loctite burning up. Typically 30s with a hand torch. Usually the dirt in front will be glowing red, that is 'some heat' that is needed. Don't melt the plastic/rubber bearing seals but thats about all you have to worry about.
I had limited success with soldering irons, a couple minutes is not unusual.

What does this screw do? I noticed my front wheel bearing seems tighter than the other so I’m wondering this nut is responsible for how tight the bearing sits?