Outcast Hex screws on center diff rubbing against motor mount.

[Armarookie43]

So I did a rebuild of all 3 diffs and after running my Outcast for the first time the center diff case was damaged bc the hex screws on the spur gear were rubbing against the motor mount. Got me a new center diff, changed out the bearings to the fast Eddies ones and now before I ran the vehicle again that's when I noticed what had happened with the original diff. I don't see why this is is happening. I even put a couple of shims behind the bearing that goes into the motor mount side. Any ideas why this is happening? I have a pic. I don't remember this problem with the stock bearings. I'm not sure if that has something to do with it or what. Thoughts?
I'm thinking that the stock motor mount assembly is garbage. This might fix my problem. Thoughts? :
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/382657951978

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/362109681681

 

[Armarookie43]

And this :
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232427658354

 

[Camaroboy383]

For sure you have an issue there... from the pic it looks like one screw is not in all the way... do you have any pictures of the spur and diff out of mount? If the bearings were the same size and thickness you shouldnt be anywhere near rubbing.. there should be no need at all for shims in the center section.. we need more info, bearings for sure are the same size and thickness?
Screws are tightened all the way in the spur? (One looks really loose in pic) were the old bearings siezed that you removed? Take a picture of diff out, face on and from the side, also a picture of the motor mount where the bearing sits .

 

[Armarookie43]

For sure you have an issue there... from the pic it looks like one screw is not in all the way... do you have any pictures of the spur and diff out of mount? If the bearings were the same size and thickness you shouldnt be anywhere near rubbing.. there should be no need at all for shims in the center section.. we need more info, bearings for sure are the same size and thickness?
Screws are tightened all the way in the spur? (One looks really loose in pic) were the old bearings siezed that you removed? Take a picture of diff out, face on and from the side, also a picture of the motor mount where the bearing sits .

Bearings seem to be exactly the same size as original ones. I was thinking about just upgrading those stock parts and take it from there because the stock parts seem so flimsy to me. The hex screws were tightened all the way in

 

[Camaroboy383]

For sure you have an issue there... from the pic it looks like one screw is not in all the way... do you have any pictures of the spur and diff out of mount? If the bearings were the same size and thickness you shouldnt be anywhere near rubbing.. there should be no need at all for shims in the center section.. we need more info, bearings for sure are the same size and thickness?
Screws are tightened all the way in the spur? (One looks really loose in pic) were the old bearings siezed that you removed? Take a picture of diff out, face on and from the side, also a picture of the motor mount where the bearing sits .

This is what I notice immediately, this screw for sure is not seated against the spur.. those screw heads should sit flat against the spur...

Bearings seem to be exactly the same size as original ones. I was thinking about just upgrading those stock parts and take it from there because the stock parts seem so flimsy to me. The hex screws were tightened all the way in

There should be no need to upgrade the motor mount.. they work just fine, unless you like the looks of the hr one.. that's up to you, but there's an issue and a aftermarket mount will not fix it... if it never rubbed before the bearing change something is assembled incorrectly...
You can see fluid pouring from the threads, and a mile wide gap behind that screw head... sure you didnt use the wrong screws? To long, bottoming out before they seat?

 

[Armarookie43]

This is what I notice immediately, this screw for sure is not seated against the spur.. those screw heads should sit flat against the spur...


There should be no need to upgrade the motor mount.. they work just fine, unless you like the looks of the hr one.. that's up to you, but there's an issue and a aftermarket mount will not fix it... if it never rubbed before the bearing change something is assembled incorrectly...
You can see fluid pouring from the threads, and a mile wide gap behind that screw head... sure you didnt use the wrong screws? To long, bottoming out before they seat?

I used the same screws that came with the spur gear. It's a brand new center diff. All I did was cleaned it out and put 500k oil in it and closed it back up. This issue also happened with the original diff. I might try putting the stock bearings back in there and see what happens. I ordered the upgraded parts anyways. Easier to adjust mesh and more solid.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Ok so there is no reason those screws shouldnt seat if they are the same screws.. that one in the pic I circled if I had to guess is about 3-5 turns away from being tight... I believe your overlooking the obvious...

 

[98jdmcivic]

How does the diff feel when you spin it by hand? Is there a gap between the gear and the cup?

 

[Rich8692]

I'm fairly new to rcs and arrma I have rebuilt about 9 diffs in the 3 months I have been doing this and I'll do know that if your not paying attention the screws will go sideways bottom out on the sidewall and feel like it's all the way in. My suggestion would be pull out your manual make sure diffs are assembled correctly bearings and shims etc.. then when seating the screws make sure they pilot down straight

Other possibilitie Is that the spider gear attached to the spur gear fell off and its causing the spur to sit weird

 

[jondilly1974]

This is what I notice immediately, this screw for sure is not seated against the spur.. those screw heads should sit flat against the spur...


There should be no need to upgrade the motor mount.. they work just fine, unless you like the looks of the hr one.. that's up to you, but there's an issue and a aftermarket mount will not fix it... if it never rubbed before the bearing change something is assembled incorrectly...
You can see fluid pouring from the threads, and a mile wide gap behind that screw head... sure you didnt use the wrong screws? To long, bottoming out before they seat?

 

[Camaroboy383]

And here is dilly, with no less than, Herd? Ha ha ha... only a apple guy could spell that... ha ha ha...

I'm fairly new to rcs and arrma I have rebuilt about 9 diffs in the 3 months I have been doing this and I'll do know that if your not paying attention the screws will go sideways bottom out on the sidewall and feel like it's all the way in. My suggestion would be pull out your manual make sure diffs are assembled correctly bearings and shims etc.. then when seating the screws make sure they pilot down straight

Other possibilitie Is that the spider gear attached to the spur gear fell off and its causing the spur to sit weird

Na, if that was the case the cup wouldnt sit against the spur... there would be a gap and a whole lot of fluid leakage

 

[Armarookie43]

And here is dilly, with no less than, Herd? Ha ha ha... only a apple guy could spell that... ha ha ha...



Na, if that was the case the cup wouldnt sit against the spur... there would be a gap and a whole lot of fluid leakage

Yeah the cup is flush against the spur gear. I'll wait for the metal upgraded parts and take it from there. Thanks anyways. At least I caught it before I did damage to the same part again.

 

[jondilly1974]

View attachment 50635

I didn’t make the meme yo ??‍??

 

[PaPa Thorn]

NVM

 

[Armarookie43]

For sure you have an issue there... from the pic it looks like one screw is not in all the way... do you have any pictures of the spur and diff out of mount? If the bearings were the same size and thickness you shouldnt be anywhere near rubbing.. there should be no need at all for shims in the center section.. we need more info, bearings for sure are the same size and thickness?
Screws are tightened all the way in the spur? (One looks really loose in pic) were the old bearings siezed that you removed? Take a picture of diff out, face on and from the side, also a picture of the motor mount where the bearing sits .

You My friend have an eagle eye. You were right! After taking a second look, I found out that indeed one of the hex screws was not all the way to in! I tightened it and the others and no more rubbing! Upgrade parts coming anyways, but thanks again!

 

[Camaroboy383]

Your very welcome my friend... glad you got it sorted.. that's all that counts... we are all here to help each other and have a good time.. now get back out there and bash on my friend... ?

 

[Armarookie43]

Your very welcome my friend... glad you got it sorted.. that's all that counts... we are all here to help each other and have a good time.. now get back out there and bash on my friend... ?

I read somewhere where this hr motor mount and diff holder that I bought has to be shimmed in order to work well? ?. I was thinking about using these parts for my Typhon 6S v3 since I'll be going back and forth with between motor pinoin gears.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I have not heard this nor have I seen them shimmed... only you can decide that...

Does the center diff move front to back? If it does can you physically see the outer race of the bearing moving with it?

My guess would be no, but anything is possible...

 

[Armarookie43]

I have not heard this nor have I seen them shimmed... only you can decide that...

Does the center diff move front to back? If it does can you physically see the outer race of the bearing moving with it?

My guess would be no, but anything is possible...

Here :
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...motor-mount-center-diff-fitment-problem.4029/

 

[Camaroboy383]

Honestly I don't see an issue with the walk in the spur, the pinion is wider than the spur.. I suppose if you didnt have the spur centered in the pinion it could possibly be enough to cook one edge when it slid for or aft....

Even the factory setup on my outcast the diff floats... and it's much more than .4 mm...

I think this was severely over thought, this is not a precision machine, it's a toy... we aren't going to the moon In it...