Senton High temp readings?

[Dionisi]

Im running a senton blx v3 on 6s with a 16 tooth pinion on a set of bandito onroad tires. Getting what i think are some high temp readings but in an unuusal place. The motor is reading around 160 running on flat pavement albeit pretty hard. The esc seems ok at like 110 120 but as continued moving the temp gun (dynamite full size gun) around is soared to 180 near the center diff area. Just touching the front driveshaft for a millisecond nearly singed my finger. So i continue getting closer to the hotzone with my temp gun and pointing directly towards the front center diff area and get a reading of 200+ yikes!

Checked for any bad bearings or binding nothing. Wondering if its normal for the senton. Nothing shut down or failed during the run just seemed a bit too hot. It was around 80 degrees out. Maybe gear down a tooth or two.

 

[chevys10zr2003]

Yeah 180-200 is pretty high. If you look at the chart for the Senton, 14t is for normal driving and 16t is basically for high speed passes, where you run a couple passes and let it cool down. If you want to drive it continuously I would say either go back to 14t or maybe try 15t and check temps again. I have stayed with the stock 14t and haven't had any issues with heat in my Senton. If you do try 15t let us know what temps you're seeing.

 

[Dionisi]

Yea i agree, i think the 16 tooth is also right at the edge. Going to install the 15 and report back with the readings. It sure is fast on the 16 but really in stock form you cannot really use it anyway as it just catches air on any full throttle.

 

[arrmatyphon]

I installed the hobbywing max 8 combo 2200kv in mine running 6s 16t and a 40mm yeah racing fan on the motor with 2.2 badlands. My temps after hard running in grass at the parks is 135f. With no fan is around the 160f thats on a warm day. But I never did try the arrma motor out. Thats hot for just onroad with a 16t. I run a 16t onroad with no heat issues at all with no fan on the motor

 

[Jerry-rigged]

You need thicker fluid in the center diff. now - When you accelerate, a lot of power (RPM) is transferred to the front wheels, via diff action. The more the diff internals spin, the more heat it makes. Thicker fluid slows down the diff action, so less heat. The small tire cars don't normally have too much of an issue, but the Outcast / Talion folks that use thin fluid often have their CD explode on them due to this overheating...

 

[Paultro84]

I'm working on getting a temp gun because my outcast on 6s gets really hot. Like burn your finger hot. I even have a Yeah Racing dual tornado fan setup on my motor. I've been sticking to a 4S battery until I'm certain of what kind of temperatures it's running.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

This is my favorite - about the size of a car key fob, so it is in my pocket most of the time when I am bashing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html

 

[Dionisi]

You need thicker fluid in the center diff. now - When you accelerate, a lot of power (RPM) is transferred to the front wheels, via diff action. The more the diff internals spin, the more heat it makes. Thicker fluid slows down the diff action, so less heat. The small tire cars don't normally have too much of an issue, but the Outcast / Talion folks that use thin fluid often have their CD explode on them due to this overheating...

Yes i did notice it is unloading to the front wheels. Thats really the only explanation that the diff area is so much hotter than the motor. I wonder how the hot racing center spool will work, probably only good for speed runs. The gear down to 15 teeth helped a little but i will def add some thicker fluid in the center diff to slow it down and reduce friction because at 190 to 200 degrees even though it hasnt exploded yet the bearings at that temp will dry up and blow sooner or later.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

For bashing, your really want either a center diff, or a slipper clutch. Running a spool for bashing will add lots of stress to the driveline. If you want it to act mostly locked, but still have the safety of a diff, you can put something like 500k or 1MM in the center diff.

 

[Paultro84]

This is my favorite - about the size of a car key fob, so it is in my pocket most of the time when I am bashing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html

Love me some cheap Harbor Freight stuff. Haha thanks. I was gonna try 1M in my center diff when I found out the E Revo 2 comes with 2M.

 

[Dionisi]

All i have to say is wow, i went from liking my senton to absolutely loving it. The 500k center diff oil was just the ticket. I thought it would be overkill but it is just insane with it. Of course this is a rough pavement setup.

No more 200 degree center diff. 120 while running hard. Motor stays happy at around 135 with the 15 tooth and motor fan.

The thing is i realize the stock setup is more for loose surfaces but it unloaded so badly to the front that it was barely drivable onroad, it still wheelied but any attempt to do a slow start speed run it would unload the front creating the pizzacutters and catching air. With the 500k once it warms up you still get some diff action but once it came down from a wheelie it was possible to just run up and down the block straight as an arrow full throttle.

Anyway just wanted to share and this is what makes the hobby so great, the changes in setup and seeing the results from them.

 

[RxMonkey]

You need thicker fluid in the center diff. now - When you accelerate, a lot of power (RPM) is transferred to the front wheels, via diff action. The more the diff internals spin, the more heat it makes. Thicker fluid slows down the diff action, so less heat. The small tire cars don't normally have too much of an issue, but the Outcast / Talion folks that use thin fluid often have their CD explode on them due to this overheating...

All i have to say is wow, i went from liking my senton to absolutely loving it. The 500k center diff oil was just the ticket. I thought it would be overkill but it is just insane with it. Of course this is a rough pavement setup.

No more 200 degree center diff. 120 while running hard. Motor stays happy at around 135 with the 15 tooth and motor fan.

The thing is i realize the stock setup is more for loose surfaces but it unloaded so badly to the front that it was barely drivable onroad, it still wheelied but any attempt to do a slow start speed run it would unload the front creating the pizzacutters and catching air. With the 500k once it warms up you still get some diff action but once it came down from a wheelie it was possible to just run up and down the block straight as an arrow full throttle.

Anyway just wanted to share and this is what makes the hobby so great, the changes in setup and seeing the results from them.

You two helped me so much! I have had so much heat trouble with my outcast and trouble with the center diff. The cup is even a little melted inside where blocks go that hold the axles for the spiders. I’ve been searching for binding or some problem part. This has been my problem. I put 300k fluid in the CD. It still gets hot but is better. I’ll be going to 1 million soon as it gets here. Thank you both!

To dionisi I got a senton recently and am not driving it till all upgrades come in and it’s set up. I put 10k 300k 10k in diffs and shimmed them. I also got a set of sway bars put on. Waiting for voltage braces and servo mount and savox servo. I hope it’s a good setup because I won’t know if it’s better or worse than stock. Good to hear the thick center oil helps so much.

 

[Dionisi]

You two helped me so much! I have had so much heat trouble with my outcast and trouble with the center diff. The cup is even a little melted inside where blocks go that hold the axles for the spiders. I’ve been searching for binding or some problem part. This has been my problem. I put 300k fluid in the CD. It still gets hot but is better. I’ll be going to 1 million soon as it gets here. Thank you both!

To dionisi I got a senton recently and am not driving it till all upgrades come in and it’s set up. I put 10k 300k 10k in diffs and shimmed them. I also got a set of sway bars put on. Waiting for voltage braces and servo mount and savox servo. I hope it’s a good setup because I won’t know if it’s better or worse than stock. Good to hear the thick center oil helps so much.

Thats awesome, good to hear. As they say two heads are better than one, in this case multiple heads. Arrma's are true beasts and have been very impressed so far with my outcast and senton but out of the box for bashing the center diff is too light, couple that with a big pinion and 6s it heats up. On a track light fluid wouldnt be an issue since you're not geared to the moon and need the car to rotate.

But yea you are gonna love the change, almost a transformation. On the swaybars yes i wish the v3 had them from the factory like the v2 but oh well ill just get them. For me i don't like the all out speed setup. I appreciate the cushy stockish setup with a bigger pinion so if i like i can quickly hit the dirt with a tire change.