No-Idea113
Active Member
- Messages
- 129
- Reaction score
- 134
- Arrma RC's
- Kraton 8S
I've got a handful of runs on my new Kraton 8s EXB with no issues and now I'm looking at swapping out the ear arms for some RPM ones so I can run the RPM mud guards. I'm bailing grass with the driveshafts and packing the shafts with grit otherwise. Hopefully they will help, I know the Arrma Stone guards up front seem too.
Anyway one of those "since I'm going to be in there" kind of things I was looking at the hinge pin supports and possibly picking up some non-plastic pieces.
I see Arrma has some new 'EXB' ones and m2c has had theirs for awhile. In looking at them the, what Arrma calls the front front (m2c calls 'A') and the rear rear (m2c 'D') don't seem to really change. Is there something I am missing on the additional $40 to replace those with likely the exact same thing just not red and maybe 7075 vs 6061 which shouldn't make a difference in this use case? Other than what looks like a deeper countersunk hole pair I am not seeing a visual difference.
Anyway, what I'm getting at is can I just get the m2c 'B' and 'C' blocks and save some coin? Or the Arrma EXB ARA330646 and ARA330647 equivalents, although I am much more inclined to give the business to a South Carolina shop vs overseas, despite the lack of matching anodizing.
The issues do seem to be with those 'B' and 'C' blocks breaking around the insert and also leading to pulled threads in the gearboxes, not from the 'A' and 'D' blocks. Or am I missing something.
Pictures stolen from the internet showing the front front 'A' and rear rear 'D'
Anyway one of those "since I'm going to be in there" kind of things I was looking at the hinge pin supports and possibly picking up some non-plastic pieces.
I see Arrma has some new 'EXB' ones and m2c has had theirs for awhile. In looking at them the, what Arrma calls the front front (m2c calls 'A') and the rear rear (m2c 'D') don't seem to really change. Is there something I am missing on the additional $40 to replace those with likely the exact same thing just not red and maybe 7075 vs 6061 which shouldn't make a difference in this use case? Other than what looks like a deeper countersunk hole pair I am not seeing a visual difference.
Anyway, what I'm getting at is can I just get the m2c 'B' and 'C' blocks and save some coin? Or the Arrma EXB ARA330646 and ARA330647 equivalents, although I am much more inclined to give the business to a South Carolina shop vs overseas, despite the lack of matching anodizing.
The issues do seem to be with those 'B' and 'C' blocks breaking around the insert and also leading to pulled threads in the gearboxes, not from the 'A' and 'D' blocks. Or am I missing something.
Pictures stolen from the internet showing the front front 'A' and rear rear 'D'
