Hobao VTE2 build log

[dk10438]

I decided to build myself a Hobao VTE2 as a backup to my Limitless (or maybe vice versa) so I have a car to drive when the other's being repaired. I spent a long time perusing parts and finally got myself a new/old roller in superb condition.
Here's the part list so far.
Castle 1721
Futaba A700 or Promodeler DS630 (haven't quite decided but likely A700 for the brute force)
Futaba temp sensor
Futaba 404 receiver- incoming
Futaba GYC441- incoming
Castle Tele-incoming
XLX2- incoming
GYC441-incoming
Scorched pinocchio spool and titanium center shafts
PPS motor mount-incoming

CF chassis?? IDK, thoughts???

 

[Diem Turner]

I think I'd just run the car as is for starters. You can always upgrade to a CF chassis later. The stock chassis has lots of real estate to work with. But...far be it from me to talk you out of getting a CF chassis. I'm a big fan of them myself. The Scorched chassis look even better in person. Nice one brother, this is gonna rock!!

 

[rotauq]

Futuba servo says no BEC use? I'd say that's rather inconvenient

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

Can’t wait to see this thing rolling! I’m gonna have to get mine ready now

Any idea on body? Delta Plastik Dome is popular

Also, I got full VTE2 ceramic bearings for it

 

[dk10438]

Futuba servo says no BEC use? I'd say that's rather inconvenient

That’s for most esc’s since this servo can pull 9-10 A. XLX2 BEC can supply 20A so I think I’m good.
FWIW, many promodeler servos recommend the same, no BEC including the DS630.
RC Reviews had a nice write up on the A700, basically the most powerful servo he had ever reviewed....

 

[dk10438]

I think I'd just run the car as is for starters. You can always upgrade to a CF chassis later. The stock chassis has lots of real estate to work with. But...far be it from me to talk you out of getting a CF chassis. I'm a big fan of them myself. The Scorched chassis look even better in person. Nice one brother, this is gonna rock!!

There's not as much real estate as I thought there would be because the stock chassis is flared upward on the sides so it is not completely flat. As a result, it's going to be tight with XLX2 which is 63x101 mm. I want to avoid putting it on the center brace to keep the CG low but I'll have to map it out....

Leaning towards FC100 since that seems to be the speed runner favorite but I've always been partial to Gulf colors so might do the 917. Dome looks like it would be difficult to paint due to all the curves in the body.

 

[rotauq]

I have the dome on my limitless and FC100 on my VTE2. I do prefer the FC100. Diem has the 917

 

[Diem Turner]

I actually run the FC100 currently. I think it's top notch for stability. I have a finished 917K but it will remain a shelf queen until I get a full set of pictures taken on the car. The 917 has more downforce than the FC100.

@dk10438 I'm sure you already know this but I thought I'd mention it just in case. To get the 20A BEC power you need to hook up the AUX wire. But since you're hooking everything up via S.BUS you'll have plenty of free channels to choose from.

 

[dk10438]

I actually run the FC100 currently. I think it's top notch for stability. I have a finished 917K but it will remain a shelf queen until I get a full set of pictures taken on the car. The 917 has more downforce than the FC100.

@dk10438 I'm sure you already know this but I thought I'd mention it just in case. To get the 20A BEC power you need to hook up the AUX wire. But since you're hooking everything up via S.BUS you'll have plenty of free channels to choose from.

actually I did not know so thank you!

I just got off the phone with CC and they said that the BEC in the XLX2 is the same as their stand alone BEC so I should be go. Apparently each of the servo wires is good for 10A which is why you need both hooked up.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I highly recommend the scortched chassis. Once you have everything in there that extra real estate helps. The quality of scorched is on another level from all RC brands in my opinion.

+1 vote for the FC100 here. A solid option for this car.

 

[dk10438]

I highly recommend the scortched chassis. Once you have everything in there that extra real estate helps. The quality of scorched is on another level from all RC brands in my opinion.

+1 vote for the FC100 here. A solid option for this car.

thanks for your thoughts Liberty.
Yeah, seriously considering the Scorched but TBH I am cost conscious so I'm debating this in my head
a) Saga (supposed to be on sale) approx $170 delivered
b) Scorched $200 plus shipping plus drill bits/countersink plus battery holders so estimating $300-320 plus there's reasonable chance I mess up the drilling.
Budget has already been blown up with buying unnecessary parts like that A700 servo.

 

[dk10438]

Having a bad day so decided to treat myself.

Scorched CF chassis and battery mounts.

Parts coming daily now....
Gyro and CC tele cable.

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

Having a bad day so decided to treat myself.

Scorched CF chassis and battery mounts.

Parts coming daily now....
Gyro and CC tele cable.

View attachment 258295

Hopefully better day days soon!

 

[dk10438]

Ok
first real update. Still waiting on the XLX2, Scorched CF chassis, and Pinocchio spool. I've decided to build on the stock chassis for now and mock it up with spare parts for the time being. A few observations.

1. The stock motor/diff mount has a terrible design so you're going to have to replace it ASAP. To replace the spool you have remove the bracket from the chassis. Very annoying. It's also too small for larger motors so you have to replace it if you plan on a 1717 or 1721 motor. PPS mount is pretty awesome and highly recommended. I'd recommend reading the instructions, specifically the part about making sure that the drive cups clearing larger diameter motors. I ended up chewing part of the cooling fins when my drive cup doubled as a Dremel because of lack of clearance....

2. Stock chassis real estate gets tight real quick if you're running a dual battery setup. XLX2 is approx 101 x 63 mm so there's not many places to put it because the chassis isn't flat and is flared upwards on the sides. Liberty has a pretty clever solution with the perpendicular ESC mount. I'll probably run it as a single battery setup for the time being and put the ESC where one of the battery trays is supposed to be.

3. Servo mount is terrible and because of the way it's designed, it won't dissipate heat. It's a tight fit for the servo and max servo height is probably going to be 28.5mm for those that care. The receiver box attaches to the servo mount and it's pretty small when you're used to a Limitless V1 box. It definitely won't accommodate a gyro and receiver mounted in the traditional position, ie on the floor. However, it might be possible to have the gyro on the floor of the box with the receiver mounted on the the side but then it would be a hassle to rewire in the future. Likely what I'll do mount the receiver, gyro, sbus hub, and telemetry on the center brace.

 

[dk10438]

Xlx2 and scorched pinocchio spool arrived so I’m removing the HW stuff. Any opinions on motor position? If I leave it here the senso cable won’t reach….

Xlx2 and scorched pinocchio spool arrived so I’m removing the HW stuff. Any opinions on motor position? If I leave it here the senso cable won’t reach….

 

[Diem Turner]

Xlx2 and scorched pinocchio spool arrived so I’m removing the HW stuff. Any opinions on motor position? If I leave it here the senso cable won’t reach….

I kinda feel like the answer to this question is an easy one and has only one contingency. Do you want to run sensored, yes or no? The answer to this question will dictate the orientation of your motor. But maybe there's more to this that I'm missing. This is the one question who's answer would dictate what I do. But that's just me...YMMV

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

Xlx2 and scorched pinocchio spool arrived so I’m removing the HW stuff. Any opinions on motor position? If I leave it here the senso cable won’t reach….

I would run the motor in the rear.

 

[dk10438]

For some reason I believed that the motor needed to be run sensored for data logging. If you run un do you get everything but motor temp? I’m also wondering if rear mounted motors will make it more prone to blow overs?

 

[Diem Turner]

For some reason I believed that the motor needed to be run sensored for data logging. If you run un do you get everything but motor temp? I’m also wondering if rear mounted motors will make it more prone to blow overs?

The sensor wire really only has two functions. To measure the position of the rotor to facilitate smooth starts and transmitting temp data from the motor.

I haven't noticed any issues with blow overs with the Infraction and a flipped motor mount. Imho, blow overs are 90%+ down to suspension setup. I have no data to validate my guesstimation, but I haven't had a blow over since I got my suspension sorted out.

 

[dk10438]

i think I’m overthinking this…
just watched James McCoys 2028 run on the hobao and he ran 180 on the stock chassis so I’m just going to assume that rear mount is perfectly fine….